Help with 2.3 rebuild

Daniel Black · Sep 2, 2017

I'll take all the advice I can get. I had the crank checked and it is the large journal so at least the bearing kit should be the same. The guy magnafluxed the Mustang head and it was cracked and I haven't had any luck finding one nearby. I guess I'll have to park the Ranger and go ahead and tear its motor apart to use the head. Sort of sucks because that's the whole reason I got the Mustang motor was so I could keep driving it. Oh well. On a side note, do I need to reuse the metal rails that were bolted to the Mustang oil pan? I crawled under the Ranger and it doesn't have any.

Daniel Black · Oct 9, 2017

Okay, I'm back with more questions. I almost have the bottom end buttoned up and as with all my "stock" rebuilds I've went a little overboard, Clevite bearings, ARP bolts, balanced bottom end. I found a good head for $50 and that brings up question one. My usual machinist says he'll take .020-.030 off to give me 10:1 but another shop that's faster but charges more says .070-.080. That's a big difference. I don't want to be way over 10:1. Have any of you had a N/A head shaved and do you remember the numbers to keep me in the ballpark? Question two. I was going to use a Ranger roller cam but that doesn't seem too appealing now but every descent aftermarket cam I find they tell me not for speed density systems. I dont really understand why but has anyone used say a Comp 260 or 280H with it? Did it run? It's been nearly 15 years since I've owned something with EFI and I do sort of like it. No patting the gas to get it started, no heal toeing it at stoplights until it gets warmed up and the mileage is over double my 300 I6 F150 but if it's something that really holds back performance without crazy expensive aftermarket computers then ill chunk it in the garbage put a carb on it and save some weight in the process. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm in V8 country and hardly anyone knows much about my little project, myself included.

tomw · Oct 10, 2017

Why are you passing on the Ranger roller cam? Looking around, the numbers indicate a 20+ hp increase and ~10ft/lb of torque bump over what you have. Add in the better exhaust manifold, and there should be a pretty noticeable bump.
I was going to look for a later model roller and exhaust manifold, but am plagued by inertia and other tasks. That's the way I'd go. It should leave the ... Oh, a better cam won't communicate to the computer, and a MAP system will be more limited in what it 'knows', so the table values may be off. A better cam will lower intake manifold vacuum when you are using it, so the MAP will report more 'work' being done, and go into a richer section of the table. I think. Hmmm....
tom

Daniel Black · Oct 12, 2017

Hmmm. I was under the impression that most of the difference in HP with the roller cam trucks was that they switched to Mass Air systems. It would have to free up some just because of the rollers. I already have a roller cam and followers from a '91 Ranger, the guy sold me the whole 8-plug head for $30. I have no use for the head but I figure I'll try the cam until I get a few miles on the motor and see how I like it. I just really wanted a bigger jump in performance and maybe some lope in the idle but that can wait a while I guess. If the price of a used 5-speed and converting it to hydraulic clutch wasn't so high it would be a V8 already. I already have a mild 289 sitting in the shop so I'll just run the stock roller and gather up parts for the V8 swap.

Mark_88 · Oct 12, 2017

the biggest increase in HP was actually from the fuel injection system. The head was redesigned a few times but apparently the 96 and later Ranger heads had the best performance from a stock head.

I put a roller cam head from a Mustang (can't remember what year it was) on an 88 2.0 and there was some improvement. The best improvement came from adding a mild performance cam and porting the head myself.

You can get quite a bit of HP out of these engines but the cost is usually not worth it when you can V8 it for less and get almost the same or even better (according to some) fuel economy.

As much as I loved the 2.3 engine for the space it allowed under the hood I don't think I would try to enhance one for performance unless I had plenty of $$$$ to toss at it...

Daniel Black · Oct 20, 2017

Yeah, this is an expensive motor to build. Most parts are double that of a SBF. Since this Ranger roller cam is used do I need to break it in? Do you even have to break in a roller cam like a slider? Do I need to coat it in break in lube, assembly lube or just some motor oil? I'm using new lifters. I've never started a new motor with an old cam. Do I still need to run it for about 20 minutes at 2000-2500 rpms to help the bearings or do I just let it warm up and take it out to do my acceleration- deceleration to help seat the rings?

tomw · Oct 20, 2017

I see no reason to do a 'cam break-in', running for 20-25 minutes. The rollers replace the sliding surfaces that a new cam need to have broken in as you note.
I'd do the runs in high gear from 30-60 and then the coast down back to 30 to seat the rings, and that's it. Personally, I don't think oil needs to be changed as quickly as some suggest. If the oil filter will not pick out & trap the particles, then they are too small to matter, and may or may not fall out with an oil change. If they are large enough to rest on the bottom of the pan, and be flushed out with a change, then they'll stay on the bottom of the pan until the oil is changed rather than float around and do damage. My opinion only, no guarantee.
tom

Help with 2.3 rebuild

Daniel Black

Active Member

Daniel Black

Active Member

tomw

Well-Known Member

Daniel Black

Active Member

Mark_88

Well-Known Member

Daniel Black

Active Member

tomw

Well-Known Member

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