Ford Ranger v6 3.0l taking a really long time to start need help please

My ranger (01) is taking 5 or more seconds to start sometimes....once in a while it starts after 2 seconds or so, but mostly it cranks for a bit and then turns over.

If I shuffle the key to power on for a few seconds then off and repeat 2-3 times it starts right away. I took it to the place I bought it...still under warranty...and they said it was the fuel pump, which it was not because I still have the same issue.

These guys are complete idiots...they left the hose that connects my tank to the gas cap off...and I found that out the hard way...they put the wrong kind of oil filter on, and I changed the oil/filter myself just to be safe...oil looked pretty old even though they said they put all new fluids in before selling it to me.

Anyway I want these guys to fix it correctly, but I'm scared they are going to **** something up...it's a service center inside of a used dealership. I like the truck and want to keep it, but I want all issues handled before my warranty is up in a month.

I added some Techron and that didn't help.


Also I am getting an annoying clicking or knocking sound that sounds like it is coming from the passengers side under the hood when I cold start it...after a few minutes the sound goes away (this is both in neutral and in drive)...once it is warmed up some it becomes a faint clicking noise when I accelerate only. Any clues on what this could be? I also added some lucas heavy duty oul stabilizer today but so far nothing.

Finally, is anyone familiar with used car sale laws? if they don't fix this stuff or keep screwing with me what could I do about it? They gave me 100% coverage for 30 days when I bought it.


Sorry for the long story...things are just starting to get annoying. I've tried and tried and nothing seems to help the start or the clicking/knocking at this point. On top of that I am dealing with mechanics that either are assholes or are genuinely slow in the head.

rangerdanger85 said:

My ranger (01) is taking 5 or more seconds to start sometimes....once in a while it starts after 2 seconds or so, but mostly it cranks for a bit and then turns over.

Click to expand...

The fuel system should hold pressure after shut down. If that were the problem the new fuel pump should have solved. The idle air control valve (IAC) may be sticking closed which prevents throttle air at start up. If you depress the gas pedal a little on start up see if that helps.

I want all issues handled before my warranty is up in a month.

Click to expand...

Make sure you make your complaints in writing, if you can use email that would be best. Documentation for future small claims case or out-of-warranty free work is the key. Read the fine print in your contract.

Also I am getting an annoying clicking or knocking sound that sounds like it is coming from the passengers side under the hood when I cold start it...after a few minutes the sound goes away (this is both in neutral and in drive)...once it is warmed up some it becomes a faint clicking noise when I accelerate only. Any clues on what this could be?

Click to expand...

Diagnosing sounds sources here is almost impossible. You could pay for second opinion then get the sellers to pay for fix - but give them the chance to fix first.

Finally, is anyone familiar with used car sale laws?

Click to expand...

They differ by state. You can research through your state's attorney generals office, consumer division.

If it is a ball joint expect to replace all of them (I'd recommend). I had to last year, they're just low quality crap. My boots were torn as well just from normal use. You can do it yourself but will need to borrow press and use an impact gun to remove and install the lowers. Uppers come with control arms.

Also expect to install a camber/caster adjustment kit for alignment as factory one is non adjustable.

Kowboy said:

The knocking sound on the passenger side is more than likely the lower ball joint. On inspection you will probably see the rubber boot deteriorated. It will probably squeak or grind when you push down on the front fender. I've sprayed some lithium grease around the lower ball joint to kill the noise, but it should be replaced. For some reason, the passenger side lower ball joint, has been the 1st to go bad for me.

Click to expand...

You seriously think a noise on cold start that goes away when warm and then comes back on acceleration is a ball joint?

People get dumber every day.



The noise is more than likely and exhaust leak caused by a warped or cracked manifold.

Rearanger said:

The fuel system should hold pressure after shut down. If that were the problem the new fuel pump should have solved. The idle air control valve (IAC) may be sticking closed which prevents throttle air at start up. If you depress the gas pedal a little on start up see if that helps.

Click to expand...

Tried that no results. I might clean it myself...seems pretty easy to do. Going to go to a mechanic I know and trust today to get him to give me a little write up of what he thinks is wrong. Taking it back to the dealer afterwards and getting written copies of what they did so far too.

Thanks for the responses.

The truck is running pretty smooth after I gave her a new oil change, put the right filter on, added techron and an oil stabilizer....the sound coming when I hit the gas doesn't relate to performance at all....hopefully I get that figured out today too.