1983 Ford Ranger- HELP ME!

jsamad41 · Oct 10, 2011

I have a 1983 V6 2.8L Ranger. I bought it off of someone and it was running great for a month or so. Then it wouldn't idle right. You could start it and it would rev real high and you would have to hit the gas to get it to kick down, but if you didn't continue to give it gas it would die. I talked to a mechanic I know and he said to try rebuilding the carb so I did that, and now as soon as i turn it on it will come on and die immediately. I don't know what else to do. I have rebuilt the carb, new EGR valve, air filter, and breather filter.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Jake

killj0y · Oct 10, 2011

how's the timing?

jsamad41 · Oct 10, 2011

When it was driving it seemed fine. The engine never backfired or pinged or anything like that. And it never seemed to be lacking power. I don't have a timing light, and it won't run long enough for me to check it I don't think.

killj0y · Oct 10, 2011

have you checked fuel pressure? Spark across all cylinders? Any codes?

jsamad41 · Oct 10, 2011

killj0y said:
have you checked fuel pressure? Spark across all cylinders? Any codes?

Fuel pressure is good. Have not checked the plugs, and I can't afford an OBD I reader. I will have to check the spark across the plugs though. Any idea on how to do that? I'm not very car saavy, yet. lol

adsm08 · Oct 10, 2011

Take the plug out of the head, plug it back into it's wire, and hold the ground tab against the body of the truck while someone cranks. You should have a white or blue spark and hear a snap as the plug fires.

Wear thick, rubber-soled work boots.

Don't touch the body of the truck yourself while doing this or you will get zapped.

If you get zapped anyway, the wire insulation is bad.

When all the insulation on your plug wires is OK, you should be able to touch the body and grab the plug wires with the engine running and not get zapped.

killj0y · Oct 10, 2011

Yea take my word, it isn't fun! Lol plus if it goes down like it did to me you'll need a new boot lol!

84bluebronco2 · Oct 10, 2011

When did ford start with OBD1 just out of curiosity? And as a side note, I had a similar problem to this on my 84 2.8 bronco. My TFI "went bad" on me.

jsamad41 · Oct 12, 2011

84bluebronco2 said:
When did ford start with OBD1 just out of curiosity? And as a side note, I had a similar problem to this on my 84 2.8 bronco. My TFI "went bad" on me.

um, what exactly is a TFI lol. And i need to grab a plug wire while someone cranks the engine and hope i dont get shocked?

buftbll62 · Oct 12, 2011

also try puttin gas or carb cleaner in the carb and try starting it if it runs good for a few seconds you might have water in the gas my 87 ranger did this and it took me forever to figure it out

dangerranger83 · Oct 12, 2011

Do the duraspark conversion and dont look back. Did it to mine and havent looked back. If your state doesnt do emissions testing then you are good or if your vehicle is to old for emissions testing, like mine is and my state doesnt test either. Click the link below for more details on it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html

killj0y · Oct 12, 2011

Carb cleaner or starting fluid isn't bad place to start diagnosing actually. Might rule something else out. See if it runs longer :icon_thumby:

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 12, 2011

Disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour to reset the computer. All you need to pull the codes is a 12v test light the tech library under eec-iv diagnostics will tell you how. Kake sure all the sensors are plugged in before you start it including the intake air temp IAT or the computer will go goofy again.if it runs good dont mess with it and yes a good tune up including plug wires and PCV highly recommended. You can check the timing but there is no chain and the gears are pretty much bullet proof unless the cam gear on the dizzy is getting bad. If you dont know how old the plug wires and PCV are just change them dont even question it. If you disconnect the battery as you do the tune up your killing two birds and again dont run it with anything disconnected you can take the top off the air cleaner to see if the choke opens all the way after it gets warm. If it runs good dont F with it. As for OBD-1 or better known as EEC-IV I believe started in the early 80s with the feedback carbs until 86 when Fi took over

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 12, 2011

Oh yea if you Fd with the idle air screws turn them 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated before you start it. turn them in all the way snug not tight and count the turns out 3 1/2. Then after it is up to temp you can final that adjustment if necessary.

jsamad41 · Oct 12, 2011

kimcrwbr1 said:
Oh yea if you Fd with the idle air screws turn them 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated before you start it. turn them in all the way snug not tight and count the turns out 3 1/2. Then after it is up to temp you can final that adjustment if necessary.

Never touched the idle screws. But as for spraying carb cleaner when i start it, do I just spray it right in the butterfly valve?

Thanks for all the great ideas guys. Keep em comin if you have anything else! Lol. I'm in college and the truck is at my parents house so hopefully I can get out there this weekend to try some stuff out. I'll let ya'll know how it goes

1983 Ford Ranger- HELP ME!

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