New here, need quite a bit of help getting my ranger running better

So I bought a ranger on craigslist for 500 bucks, its got some issues but I thought i would be able to figure out most of them on my own. Turns out I'm having a really hard time finding wiring diagrams for it (I know of the evtm but am having a hard time finding one for an 87) I've been reading tech articles and such but I'm hoping I can get some more specific help.

It is a 1987 Ford Ranger xlt extended cab 4x4 with dual tanks and a 2.9l v6.

So, things I know are wrong with it:
1. PO said he hardwired the fuel pump to the key so if the key is on the fuel pump is on, I think the inertia switch is tripped but haven't reset it yet as I want to remove the hardwiring first.

2. I think it is running very rich, it barely runs, sounds really rough and everything smells like gas when it is running, can't see any leaks anywhere but the oil smells like gas and I checked the vacuum line on the fpr and it smells like gas though doesn't seem to be wet from gas, I think i need to replace the fpr.

3. The alternator is bad, this is something I don't need any help with I don't think, I've replaced alternators on 4 different cars and it looks fairly straight forward. if there is anything odd about it compared to other cars, please let me know.

4. There are a lot of wiring issues, PO has a bunch of crimp connectors "fixing" things, the wires after the connectors don't match the ones before them, the previously mentioned hardwired fuel pump , and I don't think the ecm is getting power, KOEO the check engine light doesn't turn on.

The first thing I want to do is fix the wiring and then change the oil and fpr and try to get it running well (hoping wiring and fpr will have it running better anyway) so i'm going to post some pictures of some problem areas and hopefully you can let me know where wires are supposed to go, post pictures of the same area in your truck with everything correct, let me know what is supposed to be plugged into loose connectors or point me toward some wiring diagrams that will have correct wire colors and layouts.

Thanks in advance for any help, I know I'm asking a lot and I appreciate any help offered.

Picture 1: I think this is where the hardwiring for the fuel pump is happening, not positive though

this yellow wire goes from the fuel pump relay (I think, it the relay with the green base) through a fusible relay where it changes to a blue wire, has a blue crimp connector, stays blue (yay!) and then connects to the starter solenoid (I think that's what that is) then has another wire coming off of it that goes to a blue crimp connection and ends. wanting to know where that yellow wire from the relay is supposed to go if its not to the starter solenoid and if it is the starter solenoid where it is supposed to go after the crimp connection where it currently ends. Also pictured is a black wire with a red stripe connected to the negative battery terminal, just want to make sure that is supposed to be there, it goes into the wiring harness.

Picture 2:

I think there is probably supposed to be something plugged in here. Those lines on top are probably supposed to go somewhere as well.

Picture 3:

this connector is probably supposed to be plugged into something, it has a red wire, a black wire with a yellow stripe (I think its yellow, hard to tell) and a red wire that I think has a yellow stripe, its hard to tell if there is actually a strip or not, it is on the passenger side near the fuel pump relay, obd1 thing and ecm relay and such

Picture 4:

this black wire with a white (or possibly really faded blue) stripe comes out of the wiring harness near all of the wires for the relays by the air intake and then ends

Picture 5:

this connector on the driver's side is probably supposed to be plugged into something, it has 3 holes in the end that I'm unsuccessfully trying to show and comes from the part of thw wiring harness that goes over by the windshield washer fluid reservoir

Picture 6:

this connector comes from the wiring harness on the driver's side and isn't connected to anything, it has a white wire with a pink stripe (I think the stripe is pink, hard to tell) going into it

Picture 7:

This yellow wire with a pink stripe ends after coming out of the pictured connector on the driver's side

Picture 8:

This blue wire with 2 fusible links comes out of the wiring harness on the passenger side, goes through the fusible links and then ends.

Picture 9:

This connector isn't connected to anything (and is also a bit melted so I guess I'll need to replace it)

Picture 10:

This connector in the glovebox isn't connected to anything, I'm not sure it is supposed to be though

Picture 11:

Are these little wires on these red connectors down by the fusebox under the steering wheel supposed to be connected anywhere?

Picture 12:

Is there supposed to be something plugged in here or something?

Alright, again i know this is a lot of stuff, any help is appreciated, I can't wait to get this thing running well so I can do some offroading with it.

You've definitely got a lot of things to look into, unfortunately I can't help you with most of it. If I bought one with those issues, I think I would have bought it for a parts truck, or an engine swap recipient. Those don't help you getting it fixed though.

I wonder if #1 and #2 could be connected. Stuck/leaking injector combined with the fuel pump running continuously any time the key is on. Could be pumping fuel straight into a cylinder then leaking past the rings into the oil? Definitely get that pump wiring fixed, and change the oil. I'd also pull the plugs and see how they look.

#3 IIRC the alternator on those is no different than the alternator on anything else. Remove the old one install the new one, nothing special.

The rest of them I can't say much about, but I you've probably come to the right place.

JoshT said:

You've definitely got a lot of things to look into, unfortunately I can't help you with most of it. If I bought one with those issues, I think I would have bought it for a parts truck, or an engine swap recipient. Those don't help you getting it fixed though.

I wonder if #1 and #2 could be connected. Stuck/leaking injector combined with the fuel pump running continuously any time the key is on. Could be pumping fuel straight into a cylinder then leaking past the rings into the oil? Definitely get that pump wiring fixed, and change the oil. I'd also pull the plugs and see how they look.

#3 IIRC the alternator on those is no different than the alternator on anything else. Remove the old one install the new one, nothing special.

The rest of them I can't say much about, but I you've probably come to the right place.

Click to expand...

Well thanks for the help you do have, I do think 1 and 2 might be connected I'll get a spark plug socket and check them soon, what should I be looking for on the plugs? Good to know the alternator is normal. I'm glad i'm in the right place. It would definitely be ideal for an engine swap if I had the money, I don't have a whole lot of that but I've got plenty of time to mess with wiring and such so I'm sure I'll get it working well eventually.

I know picture #10 is the EEC-IV test connector, and isn't normally located in the glove box its usually under the hood. my 88 B2 has it on the passenger side right by the heat blower motor.

Looks like the PO of your truck had no damn clue what they were doing and did a very horrible hack job and obviously it didn't run right with all the wires going to nothing, plugs not plugged in, etc.

You may want to checkout the tech section tab and look through the wiring diagrams and electrical stuff.

Picture #12 is part of the air conditioner, usually there's a metal refrigerant line that comes out of there, the PO or someone obviously cut out a bunch of stuff they shouldn't have been messing with.

I'd suggest googling "reading spark plugs" the results will tell you more that I can possible explain coherently in a post.

Considering the overall condition of the engine and wiring, I'd probably replace them regardless.

With the apparent maintenance practices of the previous owner a full tune up might not be a bad idea. By that I mean plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil and filter change, inspect/change air filter, check/replace coolant, possibly fuel filter, inspect/replace drive belts. I'm sure that there are other things I'm forgetting. That said I would understand wanting to hold off on the bulk of those things until you get some of the major issues fixed.

wildbill23c said:

I know picture #10 is the EEC-IV test connector, and isn't normally located in the glove box its usually under the hood. my 88 B2 has it on the passenger side right by the heat blower motor.

Looks like the PO of your truck had no damn clue what they were doing and did a very horrible hack job and obviously it didn't run right with all the wires going to nothing, plugs not plugged in, etc.

You may want to checkout the tech section tab and look through the wiring diagrams and electrical stuff.

Picture #12 is part of the air conditioner, usually there's a metal refrigerant line that comes out of there, the PO or someone obviously cut out a bunch of stuff they shouldn't have been messing with.

Click to expand...

So i found what I thought was the test connector under the hood where you were saying it normally is, along with the extra little plug you jump to when doing the testing but then there is also the one in the glove box, does look the same.

I've gone through the wiring diagrams and haven't been able to find a diagram for the fuel pump wiring, maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?

and yeah, the PO definitely didn't know what they were doing, to be fair i think it was the PO to the guy I bought it from as well, although he didn't know what he was doing either which is why he decided to sell it after realizing he was in over his head with the wiring. I am too but I have time to mess with it, am good at following directions and can read wiring diagrams so I think I can get it done eventually, if nothing else I'm sure an evtm for it will show up on ebay eventually.

Anyone know if it would be okay to run it a little more with the gas in the oil? I wanna check ac function, PO said it worked great, I'm starting to doubt that especially with wildbill saying there's supposed to be a refrigerant line in picture 12 lol

not sure if I recall seeing any fuel system wiring diagrams on the forum anywhere, and with the wiring mess you have I'd certainly get a evtm.

AC works great as long as you roll the windows down and drive 55mph LOL. The cost of repairing an AC isn't worth it especially if its never been converted to at least 134A.

I looked into having the AC fixed in my 88 Bronco 2 and it would be close to $2k as to do it properly the compressor, condenser, and lines need replaced, system totally evacuated, pressure and leak tested, etc. Obviously there's a leak somewhere as it doesn't hold a charge. not going to worry about it right now, maybe in the future I might but I just wanna drive it.

I'd really get the evtm and start getting the wiring taken care of before worrying about anything else. Heck with that wiring mess I wouldn't drive it anywhere, so don't worry about tune up and oil change stuff right now, clean up the hack job wiring, get it to run properly then do the tune up and oil change

I had an 84 Bronco 2 for a while which was nothing but a mess from the PO's son screwing around with stuff he had no business messing with, combined with the horrible rust issues it would have cost way too much for me to ever be able to fix. With my current bronco 2 its in pretty good shape and a lot of the stuff can wait till I have funds, so I'm just doing what I'm able to do to it right now so I can drive it the rest will come as funds allow.

JoshT said:

I'd suggest googling "reading spark plugs" the results will tell you more that I can possible explain coherently in a post.

Considering the overall condition of the engine and wiring, I'd probably replace them regardless.

With the apparent maintenance practices of the previous owner a full tune up might not be a bad idea. By that I mean plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil and filter change, inspect/change air filter, check/replace coolant, possibly fuel filter, inspect/replace drive belts. I'm sure that there are other things I'm forgetting. That said I would understand wanting to hold off on the bulk of those things until you get some of the major issues fixed.

Click to expand...

will definitely google reading the plugs. I plan on changing the oil and filter soon and will definitely look into the rest of it, thanks!

Ithryn said:

Anyone know if it would be okay to run it a little more with the gas in the oil? I wanna check ac function, PO said it worked great, I'm starting to doubt that especially with wildbill saying there's supposed to be a refrigerant line in picture 12 lol

Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother. The evaporator core for the AC is supposed to be in that box in picture 12. As Wildbill said there is supposed to be a tube coming out of that hole in the box that connects to the rest of the AC system. Supposed to connect to either to the accumulator/reservior or a hose going to the compressor, can't recall which off hand. Without that connection there is no way that the AC is going to work even if the evaporator core is still in the box (which I doubt). Either PO was blowing smoke when he said the AC worked great, or it worked great until he started removing necessary components.

wildbill23c said:

I'd really get the evtm and start getting the wiring taken care of before worrying about anything else. Heck with that wiring mess I wouldn't drive it anywhere, so don't worry about tune up and oil change stuff right now, clean up the hack job wiring, get it to run properly then do the tune up and oil change

Click to expand...

Yeah I really want an evtm but haven't been able to find one on ebay and helm inc website says there aren't any. the wiring is definitely the first thing I'm going to take care of, I want to do an oil change immediately after that just because it seems like gas in the oil could be bad but the rest of the tune up is going to wait unless the spark plugs need replaced. Not driving it anywhere right now, it idles but sounds horrible and is very difficult to keep running when trying to actually drive it.

Someone posted a connector pdf in the Submit Info for Tech Articles recently...and another member posted a PDF on wiring a while ago...I have the PDF on wiring but it's on my other computer which I just tore apart today to move it...should have it up and running soon, but I know that was also reposted again by Richard (Alwaysfloored) and myself in another thread.

I don't envy what you will have to go through to fix that mess...but I can say that I had one similar and managed to fix it enough to drive it for about 14 years...so...with the help you are getting and some perseverance you should be up and running in no time...

I don't think I'd wait on the oil. Gas us a solvent, it cuts and thins oil and hurts is lube properties. If you've really got that much gas in the oil I'd worry about it wiping out bearings.

I'm not there to see what you are working with first hand, so it's your call to make. IMO if you can smell gas in the oil, I think its enough to cause damage. I wouldn't run the engine until the oil was changed. Not worth risking an engine over $25 worth of oil and filter. That said, there is a reason gas is getting into the oil and I'd fix that first, otherwise you are just wasting oil. Most likely causes of that I think are tied to your pump wiring and possibly leaky injectors.

JoshT said:

I don't think I'd wait on the oil. Gas us a solvent, it cuts and thins oil and hurts is lube properties. If you've really got that much gas in the oil I'd worry about it wiping out bearings.

I'm not there to see what you are working with first hand, so it's your call to make. IMO if you can smell gas in the oil, I think its enough to cause damage. I wouldn't run the engine until the oil was changed. Not worth risking an engine over $25 worth of oil and filter. That said, there is a reason gas is getting into the oil and I'd fix that first, otherwise you are just wasting oil. Most likely causes of that I think are tied to your pump wiring and possibly leaky injectors.

Click to expand...

alright, I will definitely change oil before I run it again, gonna deal with at least some of the wiring first though and get the fuel pump unhardwired and I think i'm going to replace the fpr as well, It doesn't look like it has been replaced in quite a while if ever and I think it is at least part of the problem

Mark_88 said:

Someone posted a connector pdf in the Submit Info for Tech Articles recently...and another member posted a PDF on wiring a while ago...I have the PDF on wiring but it's on my other computer which I just tore apart today to move it...should have it up and running soon, but I know that was also reposted again by Richard (Alwaysfloored) and myself in another thread.

I don't envy what you will have to go through to fix that mess...but I can say that I had one similar and managed to fix it enough to drive it for about 14 years...so...with the help you are getting and some perseverance you should be up and running in no time...

Click to expand...

I found the connectors pdf, looking through it now, haven't found the diagram in your posts yet, will look at alwaysfloored or wait for you to get you computer up and running. thanks for the help!

I'm not at my computer to find the wiring PDF. The second pic looks like an IAC valve (idle air control), it controls idle rpm. I see then on the intake manifold usually, not on the airbox. Temporarily plug the vacuum lines on top of the airbox. Check that your O2 sensor is plugged in. You can temporarily bypass the inertia switch with a U shaped hard copper house wire.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk