True-rev induction kits?

I'm curious to know how well the Tru-rev sport induction kits work.

I have a 1995 with a 3.0, so the kit is:

http://www.kustomz.com/183097.html

Also, would such a kit require an ECU tune? I don't think it does but I'd rather know before spending money. Also, would my fuel mileage be affected, positive or negative?

It would be a waste of money and your performance will go down.

Fuel injected engines are the next generation, starring back in late 70's/early 80's


Physics part, "warm air rises", but why, because is is lighter than colder air, so warmer air is lighter/less dense.
Air/fuel ratio for a gasoline engine is 14 to 1, this is a WEIGHT ratio, 14 pounds of air to 1 pound of fuel.

A 3.0l engine uses 3 liters of air/fuel each 2 RPMs, this is a VOLUME not a weight.

So if I use heavier air(colder) in that 3 liters I can add more fuel that I could with lighter air(warmer).
Adding more fuel means more power each time cylinder fires, but ONLY if I stay at 14:1 ratio

In the old carb days the air filter would sit on top of the carb and suck in warm engine air.
Hot rodders added CAIs(Cold Air Intakes) to their carbs, a large tube that went to the front of the engine bay and out next to the rad so they would get colder air than found in engine bay, or cut a hole in the hood so when it was closed cooler air from above the hood would be used.

This was not lost on car makers, when fuel injection started there was no carb so no place for cheap air filter setup to sit on.
They added CAIs.
If you look at your Rangers setup you will see the tube from the hole in the rad support to the air cleaner box then tube to intake manifold.
Cold Air Intake
Your add-on eliminates this, so can look better but no performance gain and a performance loss would be expected.
An no, no changes would be needed to computer.
And their statement about sound is a little well........foolish, lol
When do you "hear" air moving, only when it hits something, so quiet air flow means LESS contact with "parts", louder would be MORE contact..............hmmmmm

An contrary to what "performance parts" sellers might say, no car maker wants less performance from an engine, lol, they would just put in a smaller engine for better MPG if that is what they were after.
No money in telling people that though

Car makers do have emission regulations, so do you if you live in an area that tests.



Switch from mechanical radiator cooling fan to electric, that frees up some power and is better over all for the cooling system.


Turbo or super chargers increase the Volume of an engine by forcing more air in, your 3 liter engine could be Forced to 4 liters by the compressed air provided by turbo or super charger, and a 4 liter engine uses more air/fuel each 2 RPMs so has more power than 3 liter engine.

When looking at add-ons look at the common sense of it first, many rely on misinformation or misconceptions.
The "pre-vaporizer" is a good example of misinformation, 14:1 is a WEIGHT ratio, the info on these things read like it is a Volume ratio.
Doesn't matter if you break down the gasoline into separate molecules, you still need 1 pound of those molecules for each 14 pounds of air.

I figured it was a waste.... I knew I already had a cold air intake. Since it looked pretty similar to stock I was skeptical. However, it was mentioned on the 3.0 tech page so I figured I'd ask.

I've also been hesitant on the e-fan swap, mainly because getting one to work well (and not be a hacked up mess) seems to be more trouble than it's worth. I have a degree in Electrical Engineering technology so I could design a fan controller; (warning: electrical design jargon ahead) a temp sensor (the one for the temp needle would do) fed to a positive-feedback amplifier (or a schmitt trigger buffer) which would (via a transistor or the like) drive a fan relay. However, I'd also want it to switch the fan to high speed when the AC was on, which hopefully could be obtained from one or both of the pressure switches (not sure about the AC wiring, all I know is what each switch does in relation to AC pressure). IIRC such a fan doesn't yield much of a fuel mileage gain, which is what I'd be mainly looking for.

Edit- I looked,saw this:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/561523-post6.html

Both switches are in series with the cycling switch being on the power side (Purple and Red/Yellow Wires) and the pressure cutoff switch being on the "ground side" (Red/Yellow coming from the cycling switch and DG/O going to the pcm.

12 volts---->Purple wire---->cycling switch--->Red/Yellow---->cutoff switch--->Dark Green/Orange---->PCM

when both these switches close 12 volts is supplied to the pcm to tell it to turn on the compressor.

Click to expand...

That dark green/orange is a viable easy-to-integrate signal. edit 2: Although that's only the compressor. There has to be a way of getting the compressor to start... which would originate at the AC switch in the dash... looks like I need to look for a more complete diagram and/or start probing my AC wiring.

Crap, now I want to design a controller. Darn it!