Truck wont accelerate past 3000 rpm

kevinbmx77 · Sep 16, 2014

I've been having this problem for awhile now, replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the M.A.F., the air filter, changed the oil, spark plugs and wires. When i replaced the fuel pump it ran stronger than ever for awhile. The air filter keeps getting wet in the rain but last time i replaced it for this same reason it didnt solve my problem. Its a 1994 v6 3.0 2wd. After it passes 3,000 rpm it chugs hard and hesitates really badly. Sometimes it wont even start. I just walked 2 miles from chick-fil-a to advance auto part for started fluid to get home.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 16, 2014

I just changed the oil last night too

kevinbmx77 · Sep 16, 2014

Could too much oil be the cause of this?

RonD · Sep 16, 2014

The 3,000 rpm mark is where the rev limiter kicks in, but only when vehicle is in Park/Neutral or not moving (speedo at 0)
But that shouldn't make it hard to start.

Rev limiter on OBD 1 cuts out every other injector when above 3,000rpms

Either fuel is too lean or too rich
Or spark is not advancing

lean mix would make it hard to cold start, and starting fluid would help.
but you would get "pinging/knocking" at higher rpms under load, which you didn't mention.

rich mix would make it cold start OK but you would also get more grey/black smoke out the tail pipe which you don't mention.

Spark advance could be the ticket, I would get an old timing light and test spark advance while you rev the engine, see if computer is advancing the spark timing

swynx · Sep 16, 2014

i doubt this is the same scenario but ill give my 2 cents.

had a nissan with a 3.0 v6, it was throttle body injected. one of the injectors went out, so it wouldnt go past 3k rpms. not in any gear not down hill not in neutral.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 17, 2014

Im going to try what RonD said tomorrow.
I was out driving it tonight thinking it was running better (still could accelerate quick) parked to go do something and when i came back it wouldnt start, nothing helped not even starting fluid, when im on the highway going home once im in 5th gear i had no problem getting the truck to 80 and holding it there but after getting off it died on me at a light and i had to starter fluid it and put my way home with it feeling like it didnt wanna move. Probably shouldve just stayed home.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 17, 2014

I meant "still could'nt accelerate quick"

kevinbmx77 · Sep 17, 2014

I feel like this could be the distributor? (Probably spelt that wrong, im tired) but i do get a loud screaching noise very often when first starting the truck. I do have a bad tensioner pulley i have to crank down often but everyone says the screaching noise sounds more like a bearing. Would the distributor be a good idea to replace?

RonD · Sep 17, 2014

Cam syncronizer(replaced distributor), on the '95 and up, 3.0l had bearing issues, and they did have the screeching noise that would indicate worn bearing.
Never heard that about the distributor bearings through.

If you test with timing light and see spark timing jumping around(at a steady RPM) then that would be a sign distributor shaft is wobbling, so worn out bearing(s).

Also could be a coil issue, as coils get older they can become heat sensitive, and also arc internally(which can sound like screeching).
That would explain the no start when warm and also limited RPMs, as coil gets warmer resistance goes up so "recovery time" becomes longer between sparks, so only every other cylinder gets spark at higher RPM.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 17, 2014

Im going to try the coil first, i dont have any testing tools. Im hoping that will be it. The truck doesnt even try to start now, i turn the key and just get a clicking noise, i dont think its the battery because i can still turn on the lights and radio. I think that just the starter and has nothing to do with the other problem.

RonD · Sep 17, 2014

You need to borrow or invest $15 in a Volt/Ohm meter.

It will save you hundreds of dollars in NOT replacing things that are good.

Andy D · Sep 17, 2014

RonD said:
You need to borrow or invest $15 in a Volt/Ohm meter.

It will save you hundreds of dollars in NOT replacing things that are good.

Not only that, but also the potential to break something and cause more troubles from messing with old plastic. OTOH. That is how I learned about things, by breaking it, and then having to fix it. And I have the scarred knuckles to prove it.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 17, 2014

Didn't know it would be that cheap. Sounds like the better idea, thanks.

kevinbmx77 · Sep 19, 2014

Is it possibly for every plug wire to be one spot off on the distributor and the truck still turn on and drive? I think they're all off based on a chart i was looking at

kevinbmx77 · Sep 20, 2014

Im giving up for now. If i figure anything out i will post the solution

Truck wont accelerate past 3000 rpm

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