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Old 08-12-2018, 11:45 AM   #1
Beego
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Default Radiator replacement options 2008 4.0

Hello all, first i would like to thank TRS for all of the vast information and help that the forum has provided in the past.

My Ranger is a 2008 XL Supercab 4X4 with 4.0l, auto trans. It came with factory tow pkg. Not positive what this means but it is equipped with additional external trans cooler, class III hitch, 373's and payload pkg 2. The truck has 115,000 miles on the clock. The truck has been great except for brakes warping and loosing coolant, causing overheating. Luckily I watch the gauge and haven't cooked the motor yet. I do mild towing (2000lbs gross) occasionally, or i have a bed full of supplies for my job. I live in south FL so it is hot all year round pretty much. I have been through 3 waternecks, water pump, radiator, and heater hose (the one with the factory T) and 2 thermostats. I also had the block pressure tested half a year ago. I cant seem to pinpoint the problem since every time I turn around the coolant has escaped due to another leak. Last one was the heater hose. I flushed the cooling system and broke the petcock off, so I removed the radiator only to find it is a 1 row.

I am hoping to find a factory 2 row or was considering an aftermarket 3 row as long as it will bolt right in without too much modification. I have looked all over the internet and can only find 1 rows available. I had found one on the factory ford website for like 350$ but does not say how many row it is. Think it was RAD 25 or RAD 26. Found them on Summit also by Motorcraft and they say it won't fit. Went back to Ford website and the same radiator that was supposed to fit according to VIN number search was no longer there. I have an account with them and my truck is entered under my profile so typo was not the issue.

Any suggestions on sourcing a 2 or 3 row would be greatly appreciated .

Also last time it overheated the coolant went bad, looked brown, so I flushed it. The coolant was not old, but I did fill with tap water and then added coolant later. The water quality is S Fla is not the greatest. Truck runs great, no mixing of fluids between crankcase, trans etc that I can tell. No white smoke out of exhaust. Sorry for wordy post, just trying to supply all the info that may be needed for any assistance.

Thanks !

EDIT: I do not know what radiator came with the truck, a local shop replaced it, so I would not miss any work, i was in a bind.

2008 Ranger XL 4.0 4X4 nerfs, belltech, TT, 31x10.50 BFG AT KO2, Demon coil, JBA headerwires

Last edited by Beego; 08-12-2018 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Add more info:
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:06 PM   #2
Denisefwd93
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if your coolant is turning brown there's something going on because I see the stuff in there for years and years and it stays the original color.

don't think you'll have any trouble finding another radiator, it's like 20 minutes to take one out. I was, under the impression all the automatics have 2 row

you don't mention it, and you may assume because it has a what they call a tow package but I would definitely scrutinize if not replace the fan clutch and fan blade they're pretty cheap in all actuality,. They make an extreme Duty fan clutch also I love it but then I like the sound of a military Jeep with all that fan noise.
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:01 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply....

I agree, the coolant should not change color, just hoping that the hard water down here and overheating may of affected the coolant. Keeping a close eye on the other fluid conditions. Figure the rad needs replaced anyway, just want a 2 core, but if not available would consider aftermarket 3 core. My cheapest fix to get the truck rolling again and go from there. too bad I cracked the petcock off or I would put it back in and test first. After that was considering an e-fan and now possibly the HD fan you mentioned. I know what you mean about the military jeep sound. I had an 82 Malibu police package car for a while. The fan noise was a guilty pleasure of mine. We like what we like. I am a courteous driver, but people would think twice before pushing their cart of groceries out......
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:09 PM   #4
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You're very welcome and welcome to TRS!
I read the symptoms again, I'm afraid it reads like a head gasket, :( Ron, one of our resident experts here, should be along, he'll probably recommend the "glove test"
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #5
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Yeah,,,,, That was my fear. Aluminum heads, iron block. The truck is used at least 5 days a week and makes 15 to 25 start / restart a day on a service route.

Thanks much. The glove test put fear into many a man's hearts I'm sure.....
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:01 PM   #6
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Oh... and you have the SOHC,. Time for another truck?
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:32 AM   #7
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Possibly time to trade her in but would like to fix first. If it is a head gasket maybe I can try an additive to patch it up for the time being. Are the 4.0 SOHC motors know for having problems? I am only owner and took very good care of it as far as maintenance and repairs go. Only have 115k on it. Maybe I expect to much out of a vehicle but I bought the truck new and took care of it. Seems like my old beaters were just as unreliable. No one rides for free I guess. Harmonic balancer broke and took out radiator, multiple full brake jobs, dealer resealed upper and lower oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Replaced plugs, wires and coil plus the other items in original post. Was hoping to get like 200+k and then decide to sell or do the timing chain
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:38 PM   #8
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Ok... Reality is i need a new work truck. Ultimately, the plan is to fix the Ranger and body lift etc and try to fit 33 x 12.50's. If the head gasket is blown, I will prob just sell the truck or trade in. Don't want to do a top end rebuild, would rather stuff a small block in but not happening anytime soon. One day at a time.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:21 PM   #9
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Did a search for "glove test" on the forum. Was very informative. I managed to thread a bolt into the broken petcock. I will reinstall radiator and hope it holds water and pressure. Then will see if the water changes color again. If so I will do a compression test with the glove test. Will keep posted.
Thanks.
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:35 PM   #10
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Made a detailed post on progress and tried to edit in last reply. Lost the whole post. Long story short, looks like the heater core. Original post still stands. Any help with 2 or 3 row bolt in applications would be greatly appreciated. Leak was exposed by flushing, as well as being masked by AC condensation and heater hose leak. Hoping coolant went bad due to dirty overflow and heater core let go and dumped debris in system. Coolant still clean for now. Hope the heater core replacement is not so bad ? Also had Ford replace evaporator like six months ago. Just adding to the list.

Thanks, TRS, for continued learning. Tried to leave more detailed post, but outta time.
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