Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Dustinicus
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2013
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
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- Make / Model
- ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3
- Transmission
- Manual
found out that the alternator and voltage regulator were both bad. Since I had a 120amp GM alternator sitting in my collection and I decided a long time ago that one of the things that General Motors got right was their alternator design.
Being a 1-wire capable unit i could have just hooked up the power lead and called it one and done; but whats the point of having a dummy light if it doesn't work? I removed the voltage regulator; jumper-ed light green/red to white/black then yellow/white to orange/light blue... lastly I replaced the orange/light blue and white/black connectors with a female blade style end; then plug the orange/light blue wire into number 2 and the white/black wire into number 1
the alternator adjusting bracket needed to be bent towards the motor less than a half inch for fitment; the main bolt was bigger than the GM hole, so I drilled it to match it was also 1 inch shorter so I added a spacer to match stock (the key is to get the main alternator mount to rest in the same spot as the stock alternator did)
Switching the pulleys was difficult, but doable; my way involved taking both alternators apart, but an impact driver is the suggested route. The main idea is to get the correct pulley.
I will add some pictures once i get a chance, but this setup will function as a stock replacement, and your alternator light will light up as it should when your alternator stops working.
-Dustin
Being a 1-wire capable unit i could have just hooked up the power lead and called it one and done; but whats the point of having a dummy light if it doesn't work? I removed the voltage regulator; jumper-ed light green/red to white/black then yellow/white to orange/light blue... lastly I replaced the orange/light blue and white/black connectors with a female blade style end; then plug the orange/light blue wire into number 2 and the white/black wire into number 1
the alternator adjusting bracket needed to be bent towards the motor less than a half inch for fitment; the main bolt was bigger than the GM hole, so I drilled it to match it was also 1 inch shorter so I added a spacer to match stock (the key is to get the main alternator mount to rest in the same spot as the stock alternator did)
Switching the pulleys was difficult, but doable; my way involved taking both alternators apart, but an impact driver is the suggested route. The main idea is to get the correct pulley.
I will add some pictures once i get a chance, but this setup will function as a stock replacement, and your alternator light will light up as it should when your alternator stops working.
-Dustin
