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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodruff SC
Year: 89/06
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/F250
Engine: 2.9/6.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Bustin Skulls
Posts: 70
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Well on my way to work 2 weeks ago and my truck acted like i lost one cylinder, a few minutes later it thought i dropped another cylinder. long story short I replaced the TPS, IAT sensor, TFI Module, Coil, Wires, Plugs, Cap & Button. checked as much wiring as i could under the hood, Cleaned the fuel tank out, Installed New filters (Both). I removed the distributor and replaced all the guts in it and reset time. Checked Fpr and still cannot get it to run right, it acts like i am only running on 3 cylinders because i can smell the fuel and the popping/air passing through the exhaust. If i remove the ground wire going from the intake to the body (The one bolted to the wiper motor) it will run good then bad off and on while im driving. please help im stumped, about broke now, and still have to drive it 40 miles one way to work every day.
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#3 |
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Capt. Slow
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: South NJ
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.9 V6
Class: 4X4
Used For: Daily Driver / Off Road from time to time
Posts: 3,148
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (3)
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I feel for you man...
Have you checked the compression of the engine yet? If you did, what numbers did you get back?
__________________
-1987 Ranger 4x4- 3" Body Lift, 2.9 V6, A4LD auto, Manual Hubs, Dynomax Super Turbo Exhaust, 30x9.5R15 A/T, 15x8 Cragar Soft 8 Wheels |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chazy, NY
Year: many
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: DD/ offroad beater
Posts: 1,614
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (3)
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check the ground to the back of the passenger side head, if it's broke it can cause this
__________________
86 Ranger, 4.0, M5OD, BW1354M, D35 L/S, 8.8, Detroit, 4.56's, York OBA, 200 amp alt, Dual Batteries, 33x12.50x15 Procomps, Skyjacker 6" class II, Belltech 6400's, XRC8, 63" Chebbies, 339k miles |
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodruff SC
Year: 89/06
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/F250
Engine: 2.9/6.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Bustin Skulls
Posts: 70
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Well, i checked the injectors right after i cleaned my tank. I cleaned them and remounted them in the fuel rail with the rail out and they appeared to be working fine. I did not do a compression check yet, Im actually a little afraid of the numbers i might read. But i dont think compression is an issue because like i said, I can removed that one ground wire and sometimes the truck will straighten out and run ok for a min. Im not sure which ground is supposed to be on the pass side head, the only one i see is the small orange one but it is mounted to the intake and it was mounted there before i started having problems. Do you think i should move it to the head to see if that could be part of the problem? One of the only sensors I have not changed was the Coolant temp sensor (2 Wire to the ecm) Could a bad one be my problem??
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#6 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Woodland, WA
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Super
Engine: 95 4.0 with 93 ECU
Class: 4x4
Used For: Weekend driving
Posts: 816
Rep Power: 12 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (5)
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I would pull the codes and see what you get.
That can give some real clues whats going wrong
__________________
Upgrades to my 87 Ranger: 93 ECU, 95 4.0L,One Piece DriveLine,Warn Jeep hubs,Dana 35 4.10,BW1354,M50D-R1,Dual Piston Calipers, 10" Drums, Explorer Seats/Console |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: maplevalley WA
Year: 1983
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 2.8l
Class: 2WD street
Used For: DD tow boat
Posts: 4,649
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Did you post here before you started changing all those parts. If you can get your hands on a compression tester and a code reader and even a vacuum guage would have been a good start. You can keep throwing parts at it but a good diagnostic is allways the first step. With low compression It dont matter what you do it will never run right. You need to comfirm the health of the engine compression/vacuum before you spend any money on parts that are probably good.
__________________
it takes a nickle to go first class when it stops hurting it will feel alot better
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodruff SC
Year: 89/06
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/F250
Engine: 2.9/6.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Bustin Skulls
Posts: 70
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Well ill dig out the Compression tester, I just dont understand how compression can be my issue when i am able to remove a ground wire and it will straiten out (Mostly). But of course when I remove the ground my lights dont shine well and my temp, oil press reading doesnt read right.
I work 7 days a week and I only have about 2 hours every morning to work on it, so troubleshooting it is a slow process. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: maplevalley WA
Year: 1983
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 2.8l
Class: 2WD street
Used For: DD tow boat
Posts: 4,649
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I read it again and did you check all the wiring for burnt or shorted wires especially the O-2 sensor wires anything around the exhaust system. I bet when you were messing with the ground wire and the engine would run good the short is somewhere around there. GL
__________________
it takes a nickle to go first class when it stops hurting it will feel alot better
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodruff SC
Year: 89/06
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/F250
Engine: 2.9/6.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Bustin Skulls
Posts: 70
Rep Power: 5 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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I dont have any O2 sensors, the Previous owner cut the exhaust right past the manifolds and ran duals into a y with no cats. what does the O2 sensor plug look like?? round 4 wire plug??
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: maplevalley WA
Year: 1983
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 2.8l
Class: 2WD street
Used For: DD tow boat
Posts: 4,649
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Look for any wires hanging down the 0-2 sensor has three wires on mine it was one wire that went by the dizzy to the drivers side next to the firewall but just take a flashlight and look at all the wires for cracks burnt or melted connectors anywher around the exhaust manifolds pipes and anything touching the engine.
__________________
it takes a nickle to go first class when it stops hurting it will feel alot better
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#12 |
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Coast Mountain Crawlers
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Terrace, BC, Canada
Year: 1991/1997/2008
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty
Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter
Posts: 7,469
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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You engine needs an 02 to run properly, the engine uses it for fuel management. It would have been just before the cats at the end of the Y pipe.
__________________
http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock |
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