briansz
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2007
- Messages
- 75
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1983
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
Maybe this is a dumb question.
I want to know the correct way of setting initial timing after a t-belt replacement or an engine buildup. I've always been able to fudge my way through this but I can never get the truck running quite the way I want it to.
Obviously the cam sprocket, timing mark on the crank pulley, and accessory shaft pulley need to align as the dizzy rotor hits the plug contact for cylinder #1.
All the manuals say to plug the vac advance line and have the engine idle to the specified RPM. My engine (and I've put six 2.3's into this truck over the years) never idles well - if at all - without the vac advance hooked up.
I'm hooked to ported vacuum on the carb.
What's the deal? The only thing I have not replaced is the distributor. I have a few of them around but I thought I'd ask more about the correct way of doing this before swapping on another.
Right now the truck idles high or wants to stall out. If I back the throttle linkage screw out on the carb, it will stall at idle. If I coast down to a stop against the engine, the idle will come back up as if by magic when I step on the clutch. A quick blip of the gas pedal will drop the idle down, but the engine will begin to stall out or the idle will go back up.
I'd just like to have the motor idle at a reasonable RPM until I swap the 2.3T and EFI in this spring. I've looked for vacuum leaks with propane and found nothing. The carb linkage is not binding and it's been rebuilt in the last 1000 miles.
83 Ranger 2wd. 87 2.3 bottom end .030 with forged pistons, '83 head with CompCams High Energy .420 lift slider/port/polish, fully balanced, Stock Duraspark Ignition, YF 1bbl carb, electric fuel pump.
I want to know the correct way of setting initial timing after a t-belt replacement or an engine buildup. I've always been able to fudge my way through this but I can never get the truck running quite the way I want it to.
Obviously the cam sprocket, timing mark on the crank pulley, and accessory shaft pulley need to align as the dizzy rotor hits the plug contact for cylinder #1.
All the manuals say to plug the vac advance line and have the engine idle to the specified RPM. My engine (and I've put six 2.3's into this truck over the years) never idles well - if at all - without the vac advance hooked up.
I'm hooked to ported vacuum on the carb.
What's the deal? The only thing I have not replaced is the distributor. I have a few of them around but I thought I'd ask more about the correct way of doing this before swapping on another.
Right now the truck idles high or wants to stall out. If I back the throttle linkage screw out on the carb, it will stall at idle. If I coast down to a stop against the engine, the idle will come back up as if by magic when I step on the clutch. A quick blip of the gas pedal will drop the idle down, but the engine will begin to stall out or the idle will go back up.
I'd just like to have the motor idle at a reasonable RPM until I swap the 2.3T and EFI in this spring. I've looked for vacuum leaks with propane and found nothing. The carb linkage is not binding and it's been rebuilt in the last 1000 miles.
83 Ranger 2wd. 87 2.3 bottom end .030 with forged pistons, '83 head with CompCams High Energy .420 lift slider/port/polish, fully balanced, Stock Duraspark Ignition, YF 1bbl carb, electric fuel pump.