Transmission Inquiry / Request for assistance

[Shran]

You absolutely can get the transmission out and back in without touching the Y pipe. It requires having the vehicle jacked up quite a ways off the ground and you basically have to pull it out at an angle while turning it and then installing it is the opposite. A real pain and a big pry bar will help. I prefer fighting it that way as opposed to messing with exhaust bolts - your call. I usually use a transmission jack to get it under the truck and resting on the radius arm crossmember, then bench pressing it into place the rest of the way.

Automatics can come out & back in like that too but they are substantially heavier.

 

[ranger_gord]

Hi I have been following JoshB, his journeys, hand now this thread. I just finished my 94 4.0 M5OD rebuild with clutch, rear seal,TC, etc. The y-pipe on the 4.0 was a pain but I had removed the shifter and plugged it with a shop towel. I made it easier on myself by rolling back the interior carpet over the metal floor cover. Removed the 4 screws which made it a lot easier to maneuver the transmission. The transmission housing fits under the firewall and drops down over the y-pipe. Before I did this I fought to remove it over the y-pipe what a pita!
Plus to get the transmission into position I used an idea from the site. I rolled the transmission onto the creeper, got it close, then used ratcheting straps to lift one then both ends. Removed the creeper and then used a regular floor Jack to push it into place.
This site really is amazing! Good luck with the rest of your install!

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

If you install the metal freeze plugs to replace the original rubber plugs, then you won't need to get any new rubber plugs.

Have you planned out how you'll move the transmission around? Yes, if you're a young big guy it can be manhandled, solo or with friend(s), but the point is not wait to figure this part out just as you're pulling the last bellhouing bolt.

Exhaust. Manual trans out / manual in I think that you might can work around the Y-pipe, but if you plan on dropping the Y-pipe for easier access the manifold bolts will usually put up a fight. Minimum, at least hose them several times and well with PB Blaster or Kriol for a few days leading up to removing the pipe. You made need to heat the bolts. Another way, is pay a muffler shop to get them loose and snug them back for you before you dive into the clutch job.

It's not too bad of a job; just don't get rushed and don't get frustrated.

My GOSH are those downpipe bolts a colossal pain. I dealt with them when pulling my engine, the only thing that worked was heating them up cherry red, and then quenching them with a spray bottle until it didn’t boil the water away.

Repeat about 5 times per bolt and they’ll slowly start to move.

 

[RonD]

I have a local exhaust shop that will loosen exhaust nuts and bolts and replace any that break or strip, and "snug" them all back up, for cash
Most I ever paid was $60can, but they did the exhaust manifold bolts on that one and I think 5 broke, lol
Least was $25can for the down pipes and Cat, only 1 broke

Having all the right tools, and nuts/bolts handy make it a pretty fast job for them

I have wasted hours on exhaust systems..................never again