Starter clicks, truck runs after push start

[KaHOnas]

My 98 4.0 m/t (224k miles) has been doing this for a little while.

I hear the starter click, the Bendix is engaging, but the starter motor is not spinning the engine. I can get the truck to run if i push start it (the wonderful thing about having a manual transmission) and it runs fine.

I bought a replacement starter (a remanufactured one). I just finished installing it and I'm getting the same result. So it's either I bought a bad starter or there's something else going on. Has anyone dealt with this?

Thanks.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Poor ground... poor battery connections... more common then you think.

A voltage drop test will typically isolate the problem.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ Agreed

 

[RonD]

The "click" is the starter relay/solenoid which needs maybe 1 amp
The starter motor itself needs 50+ AMPs, which is why those battery cables are so BIG
But the rest of the wiring in a vehicle uses smaller wires

So there are just the 2 BIG cables to check
Clean and tight on battery terminals
Clean and tight on engine/bell housing bolt and starter motor stud

If you still have the same issue then one on those BIG cables is bad, corroded under its insulation, white powery stuff

 

[Josh B]

They are easy to rebuild and to maintain, usually they just need cleaned up a bit, being it is near the lowest hanging part of the engine and there are a lot of places around it to allow the dirt and grime getting in.
The last time mine went out was in the woods out back and a couple hundred yards in, and I had no spare. I ordered one online with 2 day delivery, and in 12 days I finally got up there to dig it out of the lost and found at UPS.
I put the replacement in and cleaned up my old one, probably could have just fixed it to start with.
This one I bench tested with jumper cables and it was going strong.
I put it in the box the other one was shipped in and it has ridden in the center of my truck box for the last 12-14 years

 

[KaHOnas]

All signs do point to a wiring issue. The interior lights dim significantly when I try to crank. It's a new battery as well. So yeah, that's my next step is to get these wires checked. This is my first Ranger and I wanted to see if there was anything else I may be missing. I didn't think it'd be too complicated.

Thanks all, and I'll check back with the results.

 

[KaHOnas]

And Bingo was his name-o. It was corrosion at the positive battery post. The previous owner ran a few extra circuits for lights and accessories. The clamp holding the extra cables had allowed some corrosion. So while the battery clamp was tight, the corrosion at the wire ends was preventing the required start current to flow.

We're good now. Thanks everyone.

 

[cbxer55]

Doesn't take much. I was having said issue. It was the two bolts holding the clamp together were loose. Tightened them up, bingo.

 

[4x4junkie]

I've seen this happen many times with that style of replacement terminal. I prefer to replace the entire cable with one having a pre-attached terminal when practical (and when not, then a pre-made cable cut to length and soldered to the existing cable(s) then shrink-wrapped).
Another option is military style terminals that allow you to use a lug or eyelet on the end of the wire to make your connection (also allows for easier wiring of accessories too).

 

[RonD]

I use a hose clamp
But the $2 ones not those cheap $1 knock offs

 

[SenorNoob]

I use a hose clamp
But the $2 ones not those cheap $1 knock offs

Am unsure if serious or sarcastic. If serious I wanna know how that works...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Am unsure if serious or sarcastic. If serious I wanna know how that works...

Wag: pull the end off the cable and use the hose clamp to attach the cable to the post.