Lord Corn
Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2019
- Messages
- 40
- Reaction score
- 11
- Points
- 8
- Location
- Nebraska
- Vehicle Year
- 2004
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger XLT
- Engine Size
- 3.0 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
- Tire Size
- 225/70R15
Hello all, I've got a quick question for everyone before I pull a fuel pump.
My 2004 3.0L is having trouble building pressure during key-on/engine-off. The pump will always get power, but will only run for less than 2 seconds (usually 1-1.25 seconds). It also only builds about 5-10psi per key-on/ignition-off cycle. I eventually get it to about 35psi, then it sometimes goes higher with more key-ons, sometimes doesn't build any more pressure with key-ons (pump still runs, just no pressure increase). From what I understand, it is a returnless system, and most of the actual fuel system parts are an all-in-one fuel pump design. This leads me to buying a new pump.
I want to be sure there are no funny electrical safeties or something that could be causing this, and isn't in the tank. I have no problem doing a pump swap, but I want to make sure I have to do the work first. Any Ideas or is it pretty much 100% the pump? My guess is the regulator is weakened and shuts the pump off due to a spike in pressure or something, but either way that still means a new pump.
My 2004 3.0L is having trouble building pressure during key-on/engine-off. The pump will always get power, but will only run for less than 2 seconds (usually 1-1.25 seconds). It also only builds about 5-10psi per key-on/ignition-off cycle. I eventually get it to about 35psi, then it sometimes goes higher with more key-ons, sometimes doesn't build any more pressure with key-ons (pump still runs, just no pressure increase). From what I understand, it is a returnless system, and most of the actual fuel system parts are an all-in-one fuel pump design. This leads me to buying a new pump.
I want to be sure there are no funny electrical safeties or something that could be causing this, and isn't in the tank. I have no problem doing a pump swap, but I want to make sure I have to do the work first. Any Ideas or is it pretty much 100% the pump? My guess is the regulator is weakened and shuts the pump off due to a spike in pressure or something, but either way that still means a new pump.