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- Oct 22, 2023
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
- Vehicle Year
- 1998
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger XLT
- Transmission
- Automatic
I bought this thing 4 years ago, two weeks before scheduled heart surgery. It was dirt cheap, because it had a blown head gasket, but the truck is like brand new……an old couple had it and the heater valve blew. I say they were old, but they were really old! I’m just kind of old, because I’ve maintained my immaturity, eh?
Working on the Vulcan is an interesting prospect, in that it’s like the old hot rodding days. If you’re thinking about getting more performance out of this thing, you’re going to be pretty much on your own, parts wise. This is an interesting challenge to me, so I’m going to dive in and see what I can do to improve the power. How much will be a surprise, but here are a few things I’m working on, in no particular order:
A) Heads
What a disaster! Plugs are tucked so deep, they’re hiding from the combustion process. There must be some longer reach pieces that’ll get that electrode out there where it belongs. Why such a huge gap between the valves,causing them to be shrouded by the chamber and cylinder walls. Lots of unshrouding work here, maybe even some undercutting below the gasket face for clearance. The intake seat protrudes over .065 from the port, right in the direction of the plugs. I’m thinking about filling with some high temp solder, then open the throat to 90% of the valve o.d. Creating more clearance around the guides and reshaping the bowl should help mid lift flow, and a good valve job are in order. I already have some oversize valves.
B) Intake
That intake filter bot intake is perfect for a wren. I bet it hisses like hell. It’s way too small. Airbox to to manifold are all restrictive. Put a larger TB on, and what for if you don’t open up the restrictions to it. I can address that later, if yer all interested.
C) Valve timing
The factory cam is being reground (since you can’t just order one, which will end up being something like 226/226 @.050 and around .500 lift. Probably more than I should, but it’ll probably sound good. I had a 2.7 liter 911 with webers and similar valve timing a hundred years ago, amd it really sounded good for a six banger. PRW makes a 1.6 adjustable roller rocker, which I hope will address any pushrod length issues.
E) Exhaust
Already have the shorty coated headers, but may want to modify them longer. I’ve had a twin 2-1/4” Borla stainless muffler layin around here for about 30 years, so that’s what the exhaust pipe size will be. Might be a little big for a 3.0. Hope it doesn’t sound like a glass pack. All my life, Ive had v8s with factory side exhausts, which were too damn loud, but damn the sounded good. Who needs a radio, when you have 4-600 HP to listen to. Several dates asked me if I had a bad muffler….those were cheap dates, because they were promptly delivered back home
Enough for now, I got too long winded. If you want me to update y’all I’ll be happy to. It’s gonna take some time, but I’m lucky to have most of the equipment to do this work, and will try to remember to take photos along the way. BTW, I’m new here, and wanted to say hello, but got carried away. Chow!
Working on the Vulcan is an interesting prospect, in that it’s like the old hot rodding days. If you’re thinking about getting more performance out of this thing, you’re going to be pretty much on your own, parts wise. This is an interesting challenge to me, so I’m going to dive in and see what I can do to improve the power. How much will be a surprise, but here are a few things I’m working on, in no particular order:
A) Heads
What a disaster! Plugs are tucked so deep, they’re hiding from the combustion process. There must be some longer reach pieces that’ll get that electrode out there where it belongs. Why such a huge gap between the valves,causing them to be shrouded by the chamber and cylinder walls. Lots of unshrouding work here, maybe even some undercutting below the gasket face for clearance. The intake seat protrudes over .065 from the port, right in the direction of the plugs. I’m thinking about filling with some high temp solder, then open the throat to 90% of the valve o.d. Creating more clearance around the guides and reshaping the bowl should help mid lift flow, and a good valve job are in order. I already have some oversize valves.
B) Intake
That intake filter bot intake is perfect for a wren. I bet it hisses like hell. It’s way too small. Airbox to to manifold are all restrictive. Put a larger TB on, and what for if you don’t open up the restrictions to it. I can address that later, if yer all interested.
C) Valve timing
The factory cam is being reground (since you can’t just order one, which will end up being something like 226/226 @.050 and around .500 lift. Probably more than I should, but it’ll probably sound good. I had a 2.7 liter 911 with webers and similar valve timing a hundred years ago, amd it really sounded good for a six banger. PRW makes a 1.6 adjustable roller rocker, which I hope will address any pushrod length issues.
E) Exhaust
Already have the shorty coated headers, but may want to modify them longer. I’ve had a twin 2-1/4” Borla stainless muffler layin around here for about 30 years, so that’s what the exhaust pipe size will be. Might be a little big for a 3.0. Hope it doesn’t sound like a glass pack. All my life, Ive had v8s with factory side exhausts, which were too damn loud, but damn the sounded good. Who needs a radio, when you have 4-600 HP to listen to. Several dates asked me if I had a bad muffler….those were cheap dates, because they were promptly delivered back home
Enough for now, I got too long winded. If you want me to update y’all I’ll be happy to. It’s gonna take some time, but I’m lucky to have most of the equipment to do this work, and will try to remember to take photos along the way. BTW, I’m new here, and wanted to say hello, but got carried away. Chow!
