Cheapest/easiest way to re gear

[aintskeered]

Hey,
I am looking to regear my 88 ranger, Its got 35s on it and 9 inches of lift total on stock gearing still. It is a manual so I believe 3.73 gears are stock?


I'd like to swap in 4.10 or 4.56 if I can.

Am I able to swap in bigger axles with out to much of a hassle with that gearing?

I'm just on hella budget so would like the cheapest/easiest solution.

 

[Roert42]

The easiest and cheapest way to do it would be to find a set of axels with the gear ratios you want, install them, then sell your old axels.

I don't know that you are going to find a factory set in the ratio you would want. Probably would want at least a 4.88. So you would have to fine someone who regeared, and is now selling. This may take quite a long time.

best way is to swap gears yourself, but requires special tools, and more time consuming to do the swap. However, you can order all the parts new or find them on ebay easier/ quicker.

 

[Shran]

I would pull your rear diff cover and count the teeth on the ring & pinion gears. Divide the ring # by the pinion # and you will have your current gear ratio (example: 41 ring gear teeth, 11 pinion = 3.73 gears.) That will also be a great time to inspect everything and change the fluid.

Don't go by what's on the door tag, build sheet, axle tag, etc. With a truck like that it's somewhat likely that someone has already regeared it.

That said IF you have the stock Dana 28 front and 7.5 rear, it is a total waste of time trying to regear them. 4.56 is the lowest you can go and they are almost impossible to find for the D28...and that axle has TINY parts throughout anyway. It is a waste of money to put any new parts in it. Find a 90-97 Ranger or 91-94 Explorer for a front Dana 35 axle and either a 4.0 Ranger or 91-01 Explorer for an 8.8 rear axle. You can put up to 5.13's in those and they are MUCH stronger. Explorer rears have bigger shafts and 95 up have disc brakes (not bolt in swap though.)

Could think about solid axle swapping the front too if you ran across the right deal on an axle with the gears you want. Lots of ways to skin this cat.

Buying all new parts will be $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ very spendy. $500 minimum per axle plus traction devices. Very easy to have $1500+ into one axle when a locker is involved.

 

[Ranger850]

Smaller tires

 

[aintskeered]

I would pull your rear diff cover and count the teeth on the ring & pinion gears. Divide the ring # by the pinion # and you will have your current gear ratio (example: 41 ring gear teeth, 11 pinion = 3.73 gears.) That will also be a great time to inspect everything and change the fluid.

Don't go by what's on the door tag, build sheet, axle tag, etc. With a truck like that it's somewhat likely that someone has already regeared it.

That said IF you have the stock Dana 28 front and 7.5 rear, it is a total waste of time trying to regear them. 4.56 is the lowest you can go and they are almost impossible to find for the D28...and that axle has TINY parts throughout anyway. It is a waste of money to put any new parts in it. Find a 90-97 Ranger or 91-94 Explorer for a front Dana 35 axle and either a 4.0 Ranger or 91-01 Explorer for an 8.8 rear axle. You can put up to 5.13's in those and they are MUCH stronger. Explorer rears have bigger shafts and 95 up have disc brakes (not bolt in swap though.)

Could think about solid axle swapping the front too if you ran across the right deal on an axle with the gears you want. Lots of ways to skin this cat.

Buying all new parts will be $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ very spendy. $500 minimum per axle plus traction devices. Very easy to have $1500+ into one axle when a locker is involved.

So as long as I find axles from pre 95 it’s a pretty simple bolt in swap?

 

[RonD]

1992 and earlier have the same wheel width, 1993 and up are 2" wider, 1" on each side, not a big deal
But frame width never changed so any year 1983-2011 will bolt in

Assuming 2WD, if its a 4x4 then you know you have to change both axle ratios at the same time

You need 4.56 ratio with 35" diameter tires
You would notice very little change from 3.73 to 4.10 with 35" tires

4.56 would be very hard to find in Ranger, impossible in Explorer(larger axles)
So you will most likely need to make them yourself, buy correct ring/pinion sets, and redo current differential, it is a learning curve but loads of videos and how-tos in setting up shims in differentials
Converting your current axle(s) would be cheapest for 4.56 change

Front differential would need to be from a 1997 or earlier Ranger, 1998 and up used a different setup
Same wheel width applies, 1992 and earlier have same width, 1993 and up 2" wider

7.5" and 8.8" Ranger differentials have the same axle diameter, so same strength, in this application, if you were putting in a V8 then the change to 8.8" might be considered, but just an opinion

 

[sgtsandman]

If it's a 4X4, try to match the front and rear widths if you can. It can cause tracking and drive ability issues in certain situations off road since the rear wheels have to create their own tracks. 70 and 80 series Toyota drivers can tell you all about it, though the rear axle is more narrow than the front in their case. Same situation and same problem in the end.