89 2.9l V6 with ambiguous parking brake issue

[newnthused]

I bought the truck with the parking brake disconnected and the parking brake pedal fully depressed. So I released the pedal today and pulled it hard to connect it.

Now, when the pedal is fully depressed, the cable is tight, but the parking brake doesn't feel engaged. The truck still rolls with transmission in neutral.

Also, when I pull the pedal release (which isn't even there, just the mechanism behind it that I have to reach for to get), the pedal does not fully release. I have to manually pull the pedal up to what I assume is the "full-off" position (it being fully up and away from the floor).

I tried to adjust the equalizer nut (with no success because it was stuck), but didn't mess around with it too much because the Haynes repair manual says to "adjust the rear brakes prior to adjusting the parking brake cable," but then doesn't refer to the section that instructs how to adjust the rear brakes. I don't want to accidentally mess something up chasing the wrong issue.

I'll include a picture of where I reconnected the cables today.

 

[superj]

you can follow the cable back to your drums and see where they pull so you can adjust them but they are usually the at the bottom as the hydraulic primary brake assembly is at the top.

my buddies nissan had the same issue, push the pedal and the back brakes would do hardly anything and it would roll in gear at idle. we ended up having to replace his rear shoes and all the small parts that come in the brake kit, the springs and clips, etc. than, we had to do lots of working the cables back and forth till they slide easily in the sheathing. afterwards, we could not get the correct setting on the nut at the pedal but got it to where the brakes held the truck very well so we left it.

it passed its safety inspection, so he was happy.

you need to get that nut to break free and maybe put a return spring on the pedal. depends on how everything works once you get the rest of the system working again

 

[sgtsandman]

It is also possible that the cables are hanging up inside the housing. I had to replace the rear cables on my 2011 recently and found spots on both cables where something had worn through the housing, letting water and dirt in. Parking brake function returned to normal after the cables were replaced.

 

[newnthused]

you can follow the cable back to your drums and see where they pull so you can adjust them but they are usually the at the bottom as the hydraulic primary brake assembly is at the top.

my buddies nissan had the same issue, push the pedal and the back brakes would do hardly anything and it would roll in gear at idle. we ended up having to replace his rear shoes and all the small parts that come in the brake kit, the springs and clips, etc. than, we had to do lots of working the cables back and forth till they slide easily in the sheathing. afterwards, we could not get the correct setting on the nut at the pedal but got it to where the brakes held the truck very well so we left it.

it passed its safety inspection, so he was happy.

you need to get that nut to break free and maybe put a return spring on the pedal. depends on how everything works once you get the rest of the system working again

I took off the drums yesterday to have a peek in there. It was so black up in there. I couldn't tell if the parking brake was engaging or not because I didn't have a partner to depress the pedal while I checked. I'm thinking of replacing the entire brakes. Drums, shoes, springs and all.

Do you know what the brake shoes should be doing when I apply the parking brake that I should look for if I check again?

 

[superj]

The bottom part of the shoe will push outwards against the drum when the parking brake is applied. Don't push the regular brakes with the drum off or you will be in a whole world of trouble though

 

[newnthused]

The bottom part of the shoe will push ouwarfs agaunst the drum when the parking brake is applied. Don't push the regular brakes with the drum off or you will be in a whole world or trouble though

Yeah I used the snip wheel to adjust to get the driver side drum off. Trying to get it back on was a huge pain. The inside of the drum has a lip on it. I tried to grind it down but didn't want to go too gnarly into the drum. I definitely scraped off some of the shoe trying to get it back on.

 

[superj]

thats super common to have a lip form there. usually new drums are the least expensive part of doing the rear brakes so i replace them if they have a lip. back in the cay, you could take drums and rotors and have them turned for very little money and that removed lips and made them back to smooth with no runout or variation

 

[SenorNoob]

Most O'Reilly's stores still turn drums/rotors...

 

[Uncle Gump]

Do you know what the brake shoes should be doing when I apply the parking brake that I should look for if I check again?

The brake cables are connected to levers that pivot from the top of the secondary brake shoe (rear shoe). The lever (when park brake is applied) pushes the park brake strut that ties the lever to the primary brake shoe (front shoe) and pushes it firmly into the brake drum. If that strut is not there you will have zero park brake.

You should have taken a picture of the brakes with the drum off... that way we would know if all the parts are there.

You should also adjust the rear brakes properly before checking park brake adjustment.

 

[newnthused]

Most O'Reilly's stores still turn drums/rotors...

Yeah I just called one near me. They'll do it for $20 each drum

 

[newnthused]

The brake cables are connected to levers that pivot from the top of the secondary brake shoe (rear shoe). The lever (when park brake is applied) pushes the park brake strut that ties the lever to the primary brake shoe (front shoe) and pushes it firmly into the brake drum. If that strut is not there you will have zero park brake.

You should have taken a picture of the brakes with the drum off... that way we would know if all the parts are there.

You should also adjust the rear brakes properly before checking park brake adjustment.

Ugh I know . Maybe I'll get them off again and take a picture.

 

[newnthused]

The brake cables are connected to levers that pivot from the top of the secondary brake shoe (rear shoe). The lever (when park brake is applied) pushes the park brake strut that ties the lever to the primary brake shoe (front shoe) and pushes it firmly into the brake drum. If that strut is not there you will have zero park brake.

You should have taken a picture of the brakes with the drum off... that way we would know if all the parts are there.

You should also adjust the rear brakes properly before checking park brake adjustment.

How do I properly adjust the rear brakes. I know there's the self adjuster that you can adjust with a flathead screwdriver, but idk how to set it "properly".

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think before you adjust them up...

It's worth another inspection to ensure everything is in place and working.

But to adjust... click that adjuster out until you can hear the brake shoes making contact with the drum and you can feel a bit of drag while rotating the rear tire. Then when you put it back on the griund... get moving in reverse and stab the brake pedal several times. Those adjusters are self adjusting and self adjust while backing up. However it only works if adjusters are free and brakes are in proper working order.