1994 347/c4 build -project- rebel rouser

[gsp]

Please give us a link to the headers you purchased.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

Please give us a link to the headers you purchased.

looks like summit racing tri y headers

 

[prymetime1]

Please give us a link to the headers you purchased.

Hey gsp, here's the part # n pic of what's comes with:

Today I made a little progress, not much but some.
I loosened the engine, thought that was not letting the trans marry up. Nope

Crawled under to inspect and found this:

Nub of the torque converter is hitting the crank????? I called summit n get service, he's a little baffled, gets TCI confrenced on the call. The dude says, tell me what's up, I tell him the story, converting the engine, was a 4 speed stick....he stops me n goes, "I've seen this, where the pilot bearing didn't come out and thus interfering"......sure as shit that's it...I def didn't remember taking one out when I started the swap. THANKS DUDE! I set out to remove it. Drop trans, get all that ish out the way and youtube how to get that b out. Simple enough, grease it out. I tried, my bolts weren't think enough n it kept squirting back out instead of forcing the bearing out. Quick call to autozone n had the puller set aside.
Fast fwd n hour and I'm back at it. I get it out and feeling of thankfulness came with it....ok der, obvious noob error, I guess. I should have researched the conversion from stick to auto more in depth.

OK so man handling the trans back into place and holy hell it's going in, like it supposed to, kinda like it did when I test fitted it earlier last week.
Victory....or so I'm thinking....I get to mating the t/c to the flexplate and well, that's tight as hell. It's real close to the engine backing plate and though I was able to get all 4 bolts bolted down, I felt it was off. I went and turned the crank and it spins, but I'm hearing ish. It's contacting the plate, and not only that, now it's gotta hung up and not able to turn the engine over completely 360. [emoji34]

So..I get back to google...I see where they say ford recommends this reinforcement plate to go on top of the flexplate. I don't have that ish so I quickly call quick time. Haha...get the tech and he tell him my ordeal...he comes back with, "hey we got these spacer kits ppl sometime use". Sweet, get the part number and called my local speed shop. It's bruces speed shop in rockaway nj, great place and here's their shout out. Margaret finds em n says, they can be here tomorrow. Great, send them over and call me when they come in.. I had to go there and get another AN fittings anyway so I'll hopefully be able to kill that tomorrow.

So, yeah 2 steps fwd n one back today.

@atx, here's a couple more shots of the headers from top side. I'll get the under side tomorrow.
Passenger front top

Driver side front top

Driver side top down

So tomorrow I hope to make a dent n get back to finishing up the drive train. Hoping the spacers do the trick on that.

Anyone have experiance with flexplate issues like this? If so please tell me what it was n how it was addressed. Thanks.

Ono

 

[prymetime1]

Here's the spacers I'm picking up:

Just did a search and seems they needed in some applications....

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

Man brotha please make sure the converter is in all the way else you crack the pump housing . If the trans has a access hole under it the when look at it the converter should be less the half covering the hole . If the converter has a drain plug on the side of it rotate the convert til the drain plug lines up with the hole and is closer to the back edge the forward . When you go to stab it . When the trans bellhousing is flush with the flex plate shield and motor and bolted tight by hand . The converter when grabbing the studs sticking out the flex plate there should be a lil play back and forth . You can also push the converter forward in the flex plate from same hole . So when you tighten it doesn't go sideways on the shaft . I work in transmission shop R&R transmissions everyday . I'm sorry brotha I'm a pot head lol what transmission are you using again . These problems are the one that's suck when everything s aftermarket from the beginning instead of swapping after running . We get Many rides that come In From other shops cause people think just cause it bolts up it fits . I know you get it worked out . The car junkie gods are with you brotha . Let me know if you need any info brotha I can always ask my trans builder [emoji106]?


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

 

[prymetime1]

@atx. Thanks for the step by step man,its appreciated. tell u I've done so much research on it this and feel like I still missed a bunch. This is my first hot rod dance so just taking it slowly.....while trying to push to finish it before it gets to cold. Ha I did the step by step from tci. I read n watch videos and felt like I was on the money. It's filled with a qt and seated twice so there is just a finger room behind.
The pilot bearing....ok, not an issues once I figured that out but the marrying up the two?? Ahaha another story. Thank goodness for some decent tech n the good ol net. I guess tomorrow I'll drop it back down and make sure the measurements are in line with the instructions....hopefully get it right tomorrow.

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

Hey brotha can you get s pic of the flex plate bolts . I ran into a problem 2 weeks ago on a 65 mustang with a 289 and aod . The flex plate bolts had to be ground down , cause the bolts were bottoming out on the converter making the flex plate flex a whole lot to bolt up . There a couple different style bolts I guess . You may need the shallow heads .


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

 

[prymetime1]

Made some progress yesterday but truck eventually won and landed me in the ER. Measuring the t/c depth in the trans, the ruler bounced off n ended up hitting eye. Real nice considering I didn't have my safety glasses on. [emoji32] I tried to forge fwd but with one eye and the pain is other. I had to put it down.
I picked up the spacers and ended up using two to push the flex plate out alil. This actually made thr flex plate flush with where the Nub of the tc goes....I hope this works.

Here's some pics:

Wear safety glasses or end up one eye willy style:

raining here, I'll try n get bak on track by saturday, gotta let eye heal up alil

Over n out ppls.

 

[prymetime1]

So Saturday and I'm feeling good to go back at it. The eye doctor didn't really clear me but its feeling 100x better so wrecking time it was.

I got back under the truck n zipped up the trans to the engine. No issues, got the cross member back in and everything went back to where it should. I then moved to the tq/c. It bolted to the flexplate much better this time with only alil flex of the plate towards the tq/c. No rubbing issues so I'm pretty sure the spacers worked. I've read that is typical and why it's called "flex" plate. Lock tighted them down and called it good.
Moved to the headers, they bolted in, cleared everthing and are happily in place.
Got the drive shaft back in, it's all good there too
Moved back to the fuel system.
First I worked on the cell to mount it permanently. I cut some of the fuel line and sliced it down the middle so I can slip it over metal edged I cut out of the floor. Worked nicely, and then I got to bolting it down.
Now, no bare metal to my cell, safety check.
I then mounted the pump inside the passenger side frame rail. Then got the FPR mounted to the fire wall. From there I ran the fuel line down into the Frame and back to the pump, to the cell. I think it's going to be fine with the exhaust, my dad recommended just wrapping the headers if we get any vapor lock issues. There is about 4 to 5 inches between the header n the line.

Also, I got the plugs n wires back in place. It's taking shape now.

still have alot to tackle:
Finish wire harness, need to just figure out my starter signal. It may be as easy as a charged battery. Wish me luck here. Lol
Mount oil filter relocation.
Finish cooling system.
Mount accessories
Run exhaust
Install carb.
Finish b&m shifter install.
Get headliner back in.

Here's some of today's progress pics:

bout ready to come off the jack stands

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

Man brotha awesome progress for sure . Thanks a lot for more pics of the headers that helps a lot to see what I'm goi g to have to tackle with my bigger bellhousing (cutting wheel, torch ,welder on passenger starter side lol) . How much from jegs or summit ? I found ones on eBay in polished ss for 150ish shipped . And so your ranger shaft worked with the c4 , that Ducketts saved for sure . I forgot already lol , what are you doing suspension which ?


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

 

[prymetime1]

Man brotha awesome progress for sure . Thanks a lot for more pics of the headers that helps a lot to see what I'm goi g to have to tackle with my bigger bellhousing (cutting wheel, torch ,welder on passenger starter side lol) . How much from jegs or summit ? I found ones on eBay in polished ss for 150ish shipped . And so your ranger shaft worked with the c4 , that Ducketts saved for sure . I forgot already lol , what are you doing suspension which ?


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

Thanks broskie!! and no problem for the pics. The passenger side will def need some help with the tools since it is already pretty tight. Ull get it I'm sure.
For the suspension, I was planning on doing the drop beams, I think u run em from the pics I saw, but this is the kit I looked at:

I wanted to see how the new shoes fit before I get there tho. Also looking to do stiffer sways. Down the road, I'm thinking of having a 4 link fabbed up. I've been reading...probably too much on suspension lately, considering I'm not done with first phase, and have a buddy who loves to weld shit up. He got me thinking Wednesday when he stopped by. Haha. I'm thinking a 95 mustang rear and some home fabbed mounts n links??

There's This already out there for the stock rear, but using a 95 stang rear, even if it's alil wider might help for home made purposes, check it out: https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-2534-ford-85-05-ranger-truck-bolt-on-4-link-suspension.aspx

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

Man suspension is a whole nother project in its self . The kit I got from summit was also the beam kit but it was like 6 or 700 with shocks . If you don't need the shocks and just want to by the front ibeams them selfs which is cheaper . I have the rear u brackets I can sell you for like $20 plus what ever ship is . I don't need them now that I'm using the expo rear end which is a automatic drop when bolted in . I used the beams which is a 3" drop along with cutting the coil for another 1" drop (plan to get actual drop 2-3" springs next . The rear is the expo rear with leafs for a 4" drop ( without expo leaf is a lil more ) and the shackles flipped ( 2" ) for 6" out back . I need to c notch bad before anything else but I'm trying to go atleast 6-8 for my end result . There's a red ranger on here that has a awesome stance (single cab with deep dish window d's wheels in black

Edit : but a irs would be awesome . I came across a thread in the mini build section where I guy has a tbird irs in his Mazda pickup . Wortha look up
I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

 

[gsp]

Nice work man, good pics...

 

[prymetime1]

Nice work man, good pics...

Hey, thanks gsp! Glad ur digging it.


My weekend progress was ok, didn't move to fast.

Yesterday I continued to mess with the electrical. Still no starter funtion. I got the coil mounted behind the engine on the firewall. Should be kinda hidden behind carb n air cleaner.
I moved along and messed with my e fan. I will reverse it and use it as a pusher since there is plenty of room in front of the rad sinc theres no more ac condensor. Should fit good and it moved a ton of air.
From there I messed with the shifter some more. I ended up needing to cut about 1.5 inches from the base so it would fit correctly over the shifter. I figured out the switches and linkage by watching a youtube vid, very helpful since the instructions are not that great. About the only negative thing I can say about it otherwise.
I messed with the 69 stang exhaust I got with the engine. I forgot to snap a pic but I'm thinking I'll be able to chop it up and have nice 2.5 Flowmaster set up dumping right in front the rear tire.
It'll be short off the header, into 40 series, out slanted by the tire, if u can picture it.

Other than that, not much real work got done but I needed to reorganize parts, boxes, tools and all sorts of shit since it's been piling up all over.

Today, doctor gave me an extra day off since there was still a good amount of inflammation in my eye. With that, I jumped back at the truck. Haha.
I worked on a few things. Cut the base and installed my shifter. It just needs to be adjusted now at the trans link since it will not go back far enough to get ratchet to work. it worked once I pulled the linkage off the trans Tho. U can see the tape line I used on the base for what I trimmed.

I extended my headlight harness so I could tuck it and make some space up front. A basic 5 plug trailer harness did the trick. Now I can disassemble to make room if I need to in the future.

I installed the old starter solinoid since the one for 94 isn't meant for coil pick up. I found it in the box of goodies when cleaning yesterday. I still could not get ignition signal to the starter.
So at the point it was a decent day, cleaned up and got my ish nice and in order again, ready for next weekend.
I started to think about ish and then read some ish..about the tfi module being the ignition signal. I then remembered I got that harness clear off the main I still have. I looked at my c105f connector pics and shows there's a pin 53, for iginition. I'm hoping that's one that I cut and can re route it to the starter solinoid for key switch signal...like I said, if I cant get it..ill push button start it. But I am really trying to figure out how to have key on key off operation. Anyone know what I am missing here?

Still alot to do but the light is there....dim, at the end of the tunnel.

I hope to have the e fan wired and fuel pump wired this coming weekend. I bought a separate 6 bus Fuze block I'm going to wire in to make the circuits easier. I need to order a 69 stang power steering hose still.
Mount the alternator.
Run trans cooler and lines. Install trans dipstick. Adjust linkage.
Mount the oil relocation and run hoses.
Hook up fp gauge and set up carb.
Ground engine to frame
Wire coil and alternator
Figure out radiator hoses.

Ok, that's all for now ppls.

 

[ATX]

I'll look at my starter solenoid wiring tomorrow for you . I had the same problem for like a day til I trace the circuit out . And powerprobed a few wires while turning the ignition Switch


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]