nederanger
New Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2009
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 2005
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3 L
- Transmission
- Manual
I'm doing a 100k tuneup and couldn't find answers to a couple questions, so any help would be appreciated:
1) The Motorcraft spark plugs I bought (SP439, AGSF-32F-EC) are pregapped to 0.044 inch with a note printed on the box that "spark plug gap is not adjustable". But the owner's manual specifies that the correct gap is 0.049-0.053 inch. The original NGK plugs I removed had a gap of 0.053 inch. Can/should I regap the new plugs?
Also, the box has a note: "installation torque to 18-25.3 ft-lb". That seems kind of high for an aluminum head with a tapered washerless spark plug, and a Hayne's manual lists a generic torque of 7-15 ft-lb. No torque listed in owner's manual.
2) The fuel filter is expensive and it is so easy to change that I'd prefer to just let it clog before changing to a new one (that I'd keep in the truck as backup). I've heard that some fuel filters are made with a bypass that lets unfiltered gas go thru if/when the filter gets clogged. Anyone know if this filter has a bypass or of any problems with this practice.
3) Draining and replacing coolant, I'm only able to get about 5 liters to drain out (starting coolant level is above min. line). Rather than fiddle around with the hoses or engine drain plugs, I'm considering just replacing what drained out with new 50:50 coolant and repeating this every 50k miles. The old coolant I drained out is clean, clear, golden. This would be less work, no flushing is needed as the coolant looks very clean, and the coolant would stay in a constant average condition, rather than fluctuating from new to old over the 100k mile interval. Sound OK?
1) The Motorcraft spark plugs I bought (SP439, AGSF-32F-EC) are pregapped to 0.044 inch with a note printed on the box that "spark plug gap is not adjustable". But the owner's manual specifies that the correct gap is 0.049-0.053 inch. The original NGK plugs I removed had a gap of 0.053 inch. Can/should I regap the new plugs?
Also, the box has a note: "installation torque to 18-25.3 ft-lb". That seems kind of high for an aluminum head with a tapered washerless spark plug, and a Hayne's manual lists a generic torque of 7-15 ft-lb. No torque listed in owner's manual.
2) The fuel filter is expensive and it is so easy to change that I'd prefer to just let it clog before changing to a new one (that I'd keep in the truck as backup). I've heard that some fuel filters are made with a bypass that lets unfiltered gas go thru if/when the filter gets clogged. Anyone know if this filter has a bypass or of any problems with this practice.
3) Draining and replacing coolant, I'm only able to get about 5 liters to drain out (starting coolant level is above min. line). Rather than fiddle around with the hoses or engine drain plugs, I'm considering just replacing what drained out with new 50:50 coolant and repeating this every 50k miles. The old coolant I drained out is clean, clear, golden. This would be less work, no flushing is needed as the coolant looks very clean, and the coolant would stay in a constant average condition, rather than fluctuating from new to old over the 100k mile interval. Sound OK?