2.3T maintenance.

Dddaviso7 · Feb 17, 2009

I'm going to be swapping in the 2.3T into my Ranger, In the near future and I was just curious as to what plugs and oil to use. I'm new to the Turbo scene and I just want to run what's best for the motor. If there is anything else "special" I need to be aware of, please let me know. Any and all suggestion will be much appreciated. Thank you!

-Davis

Sevensecondsuv · Feb 17, 2009

You want Motorcraft plugs for an 88 turbocoupe. Gap them at 0.028" for TFI ignition and 0.032-0.035 for DIS ignition.

Regular old 5w30 ro 10w30 is the oil to use. However, if you run conventional oil, let it idle for 30 seconds before you turn the key off. This will help circulate oil thru the hot turbo to cool it before oil flow ceases. This will help avoid coking of the oil in the turbo. If you run synthetic, which can withstand higher temps without breakdown, it's not as big a deal. Also change the oil more often, like every 2000-2500 miles.

Dddaviso7 · Feb 17, 2009

Thanks for the reply!

Alright, so the Iridium plugs aren't going to perform any better? Good, because I noticed they're 3x's as much..... hah

And I was planning on running a synthetic oil or even the red line oil. With oil changes having to be so soon, I think I'll run a synthetic blend, like Castrol Syntec. Save a little money.

Sevensecondsuv · Feb 17, 2009

No, you want copper core plugs on a turbo motor. Fancy metal expensive plugs generally run hotter and cause detonation, which is a very bad thing!

'93BajaSport · Feb 18, 2009

Sevensecondsuv said:
Also change the oil more often, like every 2000-2500 miles.

Unless the vehicle is driven like it's stolen all the time, I would say that is far too often, especially on a synthetic oil. The average 2.3T should not have a problem going 4000-5000mi on decent petroleum oil depending on how it is treated. When in doubt, shell out a few bucks for an oil analysis. That will not only show how the engine is wearing, but also how much life is left in the viscosity and additive package.

Sevensecondsuv · Feb 18, 2009

The turbo being so hot is what wears the oil out faster, not the engine as the engine itself is the same as any other engine.

'93BajaSport · Feb 18, 2009

I know; I had that in mind when I replied. 2500mi is still excessive in my opinion.

redgooch · Apr 3, 2009

royal purple

I run royal purple syn. Oil in all my vehicles. Yea it costs more but its worth it. My 2.3 isn't turbo (yet) but my wifes honda is. I change the oil every 5000-6000 miles with no problems. The R/P is expensive (about $50 a gal.). Be careful though if there is any oil leaks syn oil will find them. On my 2.3 in my ranger I have gone as much as 7000- 8000 miles between oil changes, I don't recomend this but that's how things go sometimes. When it comes to an engine I don't skimp on the oil. Royal purple all the way.

dieselboy740 · Apr 3, 2009

never run platinum's. They suck just get copper cores ford or ngk. I prefer the ngk but gap @.28 has worked the best for me.

skyy_4life · Apr 3, 2009

i ahve never had a problem out of platinum plugs and i have used bosch platinums in everything from my lawnmower to my ford ranger to my small block chevy..... Suck it.... :thefinger:

j/k theres nothing wrong with platinum plugs though.

Sevensecondsuv · Apr 5, 2009

Copper's are important on a turbo engine because they run cooler than platinum does, which means they are less likely to initiate pre-detonation (pinging). This is especially important if you are still running cast pistons, which WILL NOT withstand pre-detonation under boost.

redgooch · Apr 7, 2009

I have a question. If someone still wanted to run platinum plugs, would it be possible to run the next step cooler plug and get the same result as a copper plug? Just wondering, you guys would know better than I would.

shadetree · Apr 7, 2009

Sevensecondsuv said:
Copper's are important on a turbo engine because they run cooler than platinum does, which means they are less likely to initiate pre-detonation (pinging). This is especially important if you are still running cast pistons, which WILL NOT withstand pre-detonation under boost.

There is no such thing as "pre-detonation." It is detonation, or pre-ignition.
Stock plug gap is .032 to .034.
Stock timing is 10* BTDC.
Use any oil as long as it meets API specs.
"Spool down" not required for normal driving.
5k to 7.5k ok for oil changes for normal service.
3k for heavy duty service.
5W30 for temps under 37*
10W30 for warmer temps.

shady

2.3T maintenance.

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