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1996 Ranger 3.0L V6 Coolant Temperature Gauge Problems. HELP?


acleme1

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Hello all. Great site you have here. I'm having some problems with my 1996 Ranger. I was sitting at idle the other day, and my "check engine" light came on out of nowhere. I stopped by a local mechanic to have him check the codes, and I got something like "engine coolant temerature too low" - or something like that. Also, my gauge on the dashboard doesn't budge. It just sits below the 0 mark.

So, I figure the problems are one and the same. I went to the Auto Parts store and picked-up a sending unit. There are 2 coolant/temperature sending units on my ranger. A one-wire that has a "threading" like fitting, and a 2 wire with a plug.

The guys at O'Reilly's told me I needed the 2-plug and $22 bucks later I was on my way. I replaced the sending unit AND...nothing happened. Still no guage, and still the Check Engine light is on. Not sure what to do from here. Any help you guys could give me would be great.

And a side note: About the same time that my guage went bad, my "door ajar" light and beeping sound started acting a little funny. Like, it would light-up and beep at me after the door was shut. It would do this for about 30 seconds, then all is fine. Actually, it hasn't done that in a few days. My question about this is that you don't think my guage cluster / electrical components are bad? I hear when Rangers start aving electrical problems - look out.

Thanks so much for reading through this post, and any help would be great. AC.
 


Wicked_Sludge

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your correct, you have 2 sending units on your truck. the 2 wire sender communicates engine temp to the computer, the single wire one powers the gauge.

ill never understand why people always attack sensors first. your computer is telling you that the engine is running too cold...so you replace the sensor. doesnt make sense to me. instead...i would try to locate a problem in the cooling system that might cause the engine to run too cold (eg. stuck thermostat, which would also account for your temp gauge reading cold).

the CEL may not turn off on its own, even after you fix whatever problem may have caused it to illuminate. you might have to have someone with a code reader reset it (do NOT unplug your battery to reset the light).

your door ajar light is a classic problem in ford trucks. there is a pin on the inside of the door jam that is pushed closed when the door shuts. these switches often corrode and lose contact, causing flakey door ajar/dome light/door dinger syndrome. replacement is simple.
 

texasranger

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I agree with "that guy", the system is probably working for you, so check the thermostat. But, why not disconnect the battery to reset the light? If there is a good reason, I need to know. My 2000 also has the door ajar malfunction..I'll look for the switch.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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sensors do not all read exactly the same. there is a 15% tolerance for sensors right from the factory, and this number only gets worse as a sensor ages. to accurately control engine functions with such a large tolerance of input, your computer maps sensor inputs from every sensor for 80+ cycles (starts and stops of the motor). as you drive, your computer continually compares the inputs its receiving to those in its database, thus allowing it to watch and compensate for a sensors inaccuracy as it ages...if the sensor travels far enough outside its normal operating range, a code is stored.

unhooking the battery clears this memory, causing the mapping to start all over. after you hook the battery back up, your computer assumes all the sensor inputs it receives are normal, and it stores them as a baseline...even if they are inaccurate, old sensor. this not only decreases your computers ability to effectively control the engine, but it also makes it more difficult for the computer to detect abnormal sensor input (be it due to a aging sensor or an actual abnormal engine condition).
 

texasranger

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Good to know. Thanks for the education on that.
 

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