re-assembling m5od-r1

highfever · Sep 27, 2007

Here is a little back story. Bought a 1991 ranger stx. 4.0 m5r1. 4x4 with electric bw1354. was told it needed a clutch. jumped in it started it pressed clutch up and down didnt make a sound or nothing. so i said, ok. get it back to the garage and pull the tranny out. as soon as tranny came away from motor new that clutch was not the problem. pulled out from under truck and grabbed the main shaft and gave it a light tug and wouldnt you know it was melted in half right at the front input bearing. so tore the tranny down to bare case.

I am replacing everything. And just wanted to know if any of the specialty tools are needed to put it back together or will creativaty work in reassembly as well.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. it will be great if i wont have to call the local ford dealer to get those tools. found the prices of the rotunda tools online.. wow! they are proud of those arent they!

Thanks
Jake

AllanD · Sep 28, 2007

The thing you have to pay attention to most on reassembly is proper mainshaft end-play.

the spacer that goes between the input bearing race and the front bearing retainer is a selective fit spacer (they come in a variety of thicknesses)

the one part for the inexperienced to deal with is orientation of certain parts
(the "dot" on the 3-4 synchro collar faces forward the dot on the other two
collars face the rear..

The way I remember that is I put them on with the spline shaft facing me
and push the dot away from me as install the part.

The third gear synchro will ONLY fit on 3rd gear (it's specially keyed to prevent installation elsewhere)

the 5th and reverse synchros are similar but NOT the same.
a NEW reverse synchro looks "worn" on the friction surface
when new out of a ford bag, they specifically don't want it to grip real well
(imagine the look of suprise on your face if you "shift into sixth" and let out the clutch....

Other than that the mainshaft nut (on the back) needs to be turned down TIGHT
and it's hard to get a wrench (or socket) the right size

the smaller nut on the countershaft is a relativel easy to deal with size... 32mm.

Oh! and never EVER! mess with that big torx nut on the pivot shaft for the 5th/reverse shifter bellcrank.

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highfever · Sep 28, 2007

Thanks for the info allan. We get this thing back together and it will be another build credited to you.

Thanks
jake

AllanD · Sep 28, 2007

BTW, if you get replacement parts for an even later transmission where 2nd gear also gets a carbon fiber synchor ring that is also keyed uniquely so it CANNOT be installed in any other position.

that is not to say it won't go on, but you'll get the transmission all assembled and try to shift it into gear and it simply won't go into gear. because the "special" synchro rings have three pairs of teeth "webbed" together and there is a "gap" in the teeth of the synchro collar to clear the webbed teeth, so if the web and the gap don't align you'll end up with a mechanical interference.

Oops!There are also interchangability issues with cetain sets of parts, like back in the 5th-reverse housing the later "coarse tooth" synchros must be used as a set with not only the gears, synchro collar, synchro hub and synchro ring, but alos the shift fork, the shift fork bellcrank "toggle" AND the reverse idler gear shaft
(there is a clearance notch machined in the shaft forging to clear the body of the shift fork that wll prevent the trans from shifting into reverse. Oops!

I have sucessfully modified the early ones to clear the shift fork but to do so requires a steady hand and a freshly dressed "white stone" in my bench grinder.

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re-assembling m5od-r1

highfever

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AllanD

TRS Technical Staff

highfever

New Member

AllanD

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