from old v8 engine positioning

from gaelic vyk

Originally posted on TRS v.2 by baddad457


This is how I set the engine in my 89 Ranger 5.0 V8-- 2wd with dual sump fox body pan and 85-93 V8 Stang convertible motor mounts. First I removed the V6 mounts, this involves unbolting the right end of the left side axle and lowering it to gain access to the underside of the X-member. This is necessary to remove the mount on that side and to bolt up the new mount.( not necessary for the left side) I placed a floor jack under the axle end to support it and to make it easier to put the axle end back in place. Next I lowered the motor and transmission into place in the engine bay together as a unit with the motor mounts bolted up to the motor. I then centered the motor between the fenders and moved it back as far as possible in the bay. I left about 1/2-3/4 inch behind the left head for clearance for the thermacter injection tube. I then leveled the motor using a carpenters level set on top of the carb pad ( this is also possible using the lower EFI intake without the upper in place) I leveled it front to back and side to side. Next I marked the spots where the studs sticking out of the bottom of the mounts were touching the X member using soapstone ( this is necessary if you use the cutting torch method to make the holes in the x member) I then raised the motor up high enough to use the torch to make a vertical slot where the marks were and cut the slots ( slotting is necessary to allow for the downward movement of the studs when they contact the x member) I then lowered the engine back into place and bolted the mounts to the X member. Then I unbolted the motor from the mounts and lifted the engine and trans back out of the truck. After this was done, I drilled two additional 3/8 holes thru the X member using the mounts as templates ( there were 3-3/8 holes in each mount in addition to the studs. I used 3/8 bolts and lock nuts to fill these holes. Before putting the motor back into place, I installed a 2 inch 7/16 NC stud into each mount hole in the block, this made it easier to align the mounts to the block. The block was secured to the studs with nuts. My transmission X-member is a home built affair, consisting of a single piece of 3 inch channel steel with a 1.25 inch angle welded to the top to set the trans mount to. It sets up inside the frame rails and bolted in place by a single 1/2 bolt per side, I would post a drawing of it if I could figure out how to post it. If anyone's interested I could make a drawing and mail it to you. Thsi X member took about 30 minutes to make in my welding shop.

I dont understand why you unbolted the suspension bracket..its a pain..but you can get to the bolts..I would just snake the air ratchet in and do it that way..less stuff to deal with..

and as far as getting it perfectly level..just get it close..what road have you EVER been on that was perfectly level...

when I did mine..I set the motor about 1 1/2in to the pass side to help the headers clear the steering assembly..and welded all the extra holes in my crossmember for support..the bolts in the holes dont do you any good other than give ya something else to drop on the road as you drive..

and as far as the tranny mount..you can reuse the stock ranger trans mount from a 88+RBV that has the L lip that wraps the frame on the pass side..just move it back about 2in and redrill the holes..works PERFECT!!
User is offlineProfile CardPM

View VehiclesReport PostGo to the top of the page
+

Click to expand...

baddad457
If you think that you could get to the backside of the right side mount on my Ranger, then you should have offered your services to do so. Even a regular ratchet wouldn't fit in there, much less an air ratchet. And if you don't want your's perfectly level, that's your problem. Mine looks better that way, I don't like sloppy engine installations. My exhaust worked out perfectly by centering the motor. Both the Hedman shorty's I started with and the Shelby tri-Y's I now use have/had plenty of clearance on either side this way. My transmission cross member worked out perfectly and was a lot easier to fabricate than spending a day or two J'Yard hunting for one that MIGHT have worked as well. As for dropping extra bolts on the road, if you knew how to properly install bolts, you wouldn't have that problem. I also have never had the engine cross member crack or break from any of the holes in it, factory or otherwise. I suppose if I was into "Dukes of Hazzard" style jumping competition I would think otherwise. Thanks for the extra input, it shows you really know your stuff.

Click to expand...