Help with Frame

Ranger Kip · Jan 24, 2011

How would I safely weld my frame back together?

The mid section back is no good, so I wanted to salvage one from another ranger and weld it on, what should I do to make it safe and wont get much attention when getting inspected.

My budget is ultra low, as usual, so myself, my buddy Jason, and possibly adsm08 will be doing all the work.

(P.s. I have an electric MIG welder, a very very small stick welder and a grinder; but i can possibly take something into school to machine it)

ChrisR1S · Jan 24, 2011

If you were going to "salvage" a portion from another ranger, why not just swap frames? much easier..not to mention safer..

Ranger Kip · Jan 24, 2011

also much more expensive too, I have a possibility of getting a frame section for free, a frame will cost me around $300 to $400, or the one with a solid body, mostly completed, solid framed one at the dealership for $250, but I dont have any money at all right at this one moment.

Saving up to send a flower to my girl at college right now =p

(bad news is mom doesnt want me getting a job now, because she changed her opinion to saying I need to focus on school, she went as far as to say I should drop my girl to focus more, that was low)

Ranger Kip · Jan 24, 2011

there is my idea

The ranger is going to become a farm truck/gopher all the time, and not going to be my first truck, sadly enough, so I am going to be tripping it up, making it stronger, run better, and make it more durable, I can get a lof of scrap metal for free, so =p I am gonna be grabbing some of my neighbors galvinized duct he has laying around, and use the sheet metal to fix the rusted out spots, this summer. The front bumper is gonna be replaced most likely, the headlights are gonna get home-made covers to protect them from getting smashed (again), same with the back lights. And the suspension in back is going to be rednecked safely for more wieght.

The engine is going to be honed/sleeved (when I can) to get it to perform better, and I will aslo need rings, might just grab pistons from the junkyard if I find a solid engine.

gwaii · Jan 24, 2011

Ranger Kip said:
(bad news is mom doesnt want me getting a job now, because she changed her opinion to saying I need to focus on school, she went as far as to say I should drop my girl to focus more, that was low)

sounds like your mom is a smart lady.

from what i've seen 'focus' seems to be an ongoing concern.

Ranger Kip · Jan 24, 2011

nah, my focus is this: School, Home, Chores, GF, Sleep, Ranger

feellnfroggy · Jan 24, 2011

Sorry to thread jack but how is business on the farm, you guys aint losing anything still are you?

yyc_tbird_sc · Jan 24, 2011

First, if you're afraid of people seeing the fix on the frame then I have to question your welding abilities. I mean no offense by this, but it will be seen unless you grind everything down to bare metal and repaint the entire frame to hide it.

There are a few articles around on the net describing how to patch frames together. There is a lot of different views about how to do it properly. I personally would look into fish plating the frame. Fish plate is like what you have planned, but without any straight vertical endges.

1/2" plate is overkill as your frame is only about 1/8" thick as it is.

As for the galvanized metal...I wouldn't use it for body work. Also, be sure to grind off ALL the galvanizing before you weld it.

schmoo · Jan 24, 2011

sounds like thousands of dollars in labor for tens of dollars
worth of truck. if you put an ad in the paper, you can
get a better start for 2-300$- less if you don't need a title.

Iron Ranger · Jan 25, 2011

Here's how I would do it.

Instead of a straight on 90 degree surface for the 2 mating frames, cut each at a 45 degree angle, bevel and weld both sides, and weld in a plate on the inside.

That way, you can grind the outer weld almost flat, yet maintain the strength needed for a truck frame.

Sasquatch_Ryda · Jan 25, 2011

^^^^^ This.

99_3.0 · Jan 28, 2011

3/16ths would be plenty to patch the frame back. Half inch would be good but by the time you'd get the weld to wet into the half inch, the frame would have melted away. I like Iron Rangers way of doing it the most. If it were me, i'd bolt the furthest left and furthest right two holes with half inch grade 8 bolts.

Iron Ranger · Jan 28, 2011

99_3.0 said:
....... If it were me, i'd bolt the furthest left and furthest right two holes with half inch grade 8 bolts.

The bolt heads would show if someone were to inspect it. Plus, a good weld in those 8 spots would hold just a well, if not better, than the bolts.

Boggin · Jan 28, 2011

When welding chassis together, ALWAYS cut/weld on an angle, and as stated earlier, 1/2" is way to overkill for your 1/8" chassis. I wouldn't bother using bolts either, they will show and I think it would look fishy when going for inspection, just weld/grind/paint if it were me

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 29, 2011

Iron Ranger said:
Here's how I would do it.

Instead of a straight on 90 degree surface for the 2 mating frames, cut each at a 45 degree angle, bevel and weld both sides, and weld in a plate on the inside.

That way, you can grind the outer weld almost flat, yet maintain the strength needed for a truck frame.

^^^ I agree but I did some reading about this awhile ago and one thing that was mentioned more than once by different authors was to NOT weld the fishplate on the vertical but to use a diamond shape, and no sharp corners... make sure to have a radius on the corner IE round it off. I wish I knew how to draw on the computer but the best I can do is... the fishplate should have an arrow shape on the left and right end. I also agree with no bolts.

Richard

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