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zf not going in reverse.....


ford1386

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
292
Age
39
City
Gardners, PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
i recently put a 302 and a zf 5 spd in my ranger with a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch line, and clutch. When i go forward and then try to back up it doesnt seem to want to go all the way into reverse then when i let the clutch out in grinds, but if i double clutch it then goes in fine, does this mean there is still air in the clutch line or master cylinder or is the reverse synchronizer bad, its a junkyard tranny, but i just thought it was weird to have a reverse synchro go out seeing as how it is the least used gear. I bench bled the clutch master cylinder before install, then did the bleeder on the slave cylinder prolly 5 times??????????????????
 
make sure your coming to a complete stop before you try and shift, and how exactly did you bleed the slave?
 
yea im definetely at a full stop, and i used the bleeder on the internal slave cylinder
 
pump the pedal ten or so times, hold it then bleed, probably did that ten times
 
hmmm. thats the method we used putting in a new slave last year, and it ruined it. i put in another new one this year, without doing all that, i just opened the screw and gravity bleed it, and it works like a charm.

you might want to try and get a vaccuum bleeder from Harbor freight. that might help.
 
yea but it has the f150 slave in it with a tapered 7/16 bleeder so there is no way to hook up a piece of tubing to it..........
 
sorry i meant f250...................bump
 
It's been a while since I posted here but I'd be glad to give you the info that I found. the 88 and newer masters have a larger bore therefore it moves more fluid. this helps a little. Making sure the entire system has no air in it is VERY important. I found that using either a pressure bleeder that attaches to the master or a vacuum bleeder that attaches to the slave is better than trying to manually or gravity bleed the system. Also when using either the pressure or vacuum bleeders, remove the master and tilt it around so all the air gets out of the "top" of the bore. By top I mean near the pedal rod. This brings me to the most important part of the swap. A custom rod. What I ended up doing is taking a stock pedal to master rod and cut it in half. I welded a 2" nut onto the end that attaches to the master. I'm sure there is a special name for this nut but I dont know what it's called. Then I threaded the other half, put a nut onto it to act as a jam nut and threaded everything together. Now I can adjust how high I want my pedal without it bottoming out on the floor. I hope this helps as it is not a very common swap. I'll try and take some pics.
 
I am using the 88 f250 internal slave in the zf with a clutch line out of an 88 ranger and a master cylinder for a 94 ranger but the pedal to master rod on my master cyliinder is plastic so i dont know how i can get more travel out of it, so is it definetely not a transmission problem because reverse seems to be the only gear i have to double clutch or it wont go in all the way then grind when i let the clutch out?
 

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