Yet another Over temp thread

[TrexMex]

If you overfilled by a half quart id say thats more or less ok, but a quart is too much, i would drain the excess oil. That could cause some damage, such as piston slapping or the like.The chances of serious damage are low, but i wouldnt take any chances, drain the excess out.

Thanks for the advice man... When you feel you have everything under control you make mistakes like this...

 

[el_conquistador]

... and that's all I needed to know... Usually do chevron but got cheap this time (walmart had a sale).. I guess I should've known better... I'm taking that stuff out tonight!!! When the sun sets that is.... 90 at night!

Thanks for the "subtle" suggestion man

Just want to say (my brother-in-law says this he's a machanice) that Valvoline and Pennzoil are made but the same company and are the same thing. The only differnces are what the Valvoline and Pennzoil additives are and how much is put in and price difference. Like I said thats not me talking. I use Pennzoil but have nothing against Valvoline, Ive used it before and worked great. BTW I dont care what people say about Fram filters, Ive never had a problem with them. Fill them up with oil before putting them on, if you can, to prevent air in the oil system and prevent a longer dry start up. Ill never use a POS filter....Fram for me all the way. This is my opinion dont take it personally, use what you want.

Pennzoil and Quaker State are made by the same company. Go to Wally World and pick up a bottle of each. Look on the back and you will see that the address to write to the company the exact same PO box.

To each is his own. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic in my Five Hundred and I use conventional Valvoline in my Ranger

 

[TrexMex]

I just found out yesterday that autozone brand oil is made by Castrol.... waddayaknow......

 

[TrexMex]

used 4oh's are cheap enough it's not worth tearing one apart untill parts are coming out the tail pipe. There's a company that makes a head sealer, IIRC it's K&S... I've done it on three 4 leakers with good success. Just make sure you follow the instructions to the fawkin letter if you do it!!!!!!!! Like I orig posted... IMO you have heads/gaskets going bad.

Did you mean K&W?

So it's not worth the shot removing the heads to check them and replacing the gaskets?

I've read in the tech section that another problem would be lower intake bolts getting loose, so I'll check that as well....

Guess the new suspension is going to sit at my garage for at least another two weeks... this weekend I'll be traveling to the hometown to see my parents, so no TLC for the Ranger 'till next week....

 

[Bruce]

My 94 Explorer 4x4 auto has a 4 core radiator...the top of the radiator measures 2 1/2 inches wide if i remember right.

 

[TrexMex]

Checked cylinder compression a month ago...

1 - 180psi; 2 - 180psi; 3 - 180psi; 4 - 175psi; 5 - 180psi; 6 - 180psi

I didn't pay attention to cylinder #4 back then but now looks suspicious... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.....


EDIT: Someone has mentioned I shouldn't be trying to torque the head bolts with the engine mounted on the vehicle. Is this true?

 

[Big Jim M]

Jesus Tre-mex!

The damn thing SAYS "NORMAL"... What more do you need to know about NORMAL? As long as it stays in that range it is NORMAL!
You, nor I either, know NOTHING about how many degrees F there is in the NORMAL area of the gauge. But FORD thinks it is NORMAL if the needle is in that range.
The reaction of the flow of coolant and the temperature sending unit varies depending on many things. Although the coolant might have gained or lost a few degrees It may take a minute or even more to register that gain or loss.. Stopping at a light slows the engine and therefore the coolant flow. As the engine has been at speed it has an excess of heat to place in the coolant...which has now slowed down in velocity.. It therefore takes a while to get that excess into the radiator. Mean time your gauge reads a bit warmer...BUT STILL IN THE NORMAL RANGE.. Got it? Your vehicle is NORMAL!
As for heads or oil or other.. FORGETABOUTIT..
The weak link in your coolant system is the coolant itself. The engine will bear lots more heat and still work fine than the coolant will. The gauge is there to warn you when you are losing coolant..not to warn you the temp is too hot to lose an engine.
Nascar runs their engines in the 240* operating range and sometimes the engines get to 260* and still run fine.
If your coolant ain't puking out of the overflow your engine is doing fine.
Big Jim

 

[Big Jim M]

That, too, is NORMAL

Checked cylinder compression a month ago...

1 - 180psi; 2 - 180psi; 3 - 180psi; 4 - 175psi; 5 - 180psi; 6 - 180psi

I didn't pay attention to cylinder #4 back then but now looks suspicious... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.....


EDIT: Someone has mentioned I shouldn't be trying to torque the head bolts with the engine mounted on the vehicle. Is this true?

Five pounds is a normal varient. Don't even think about it again. Doing a retest may give another cylinder with a five pound varient..

Your head bolts are fine leave them alone.
To answer the question.. Sure installing a head in the vehicle is an Ok thing to do.
Big Jim

 

[plainsranger]

Pennzoil and Quaker State are made by the same company. Go to Wally World and pick up a bottle of each. Look on the back and you will see that the address to write to the company the exact same PO box.

Yep, both owned by the Shell Oil company. Same PO box, same 800 number to call if needed.

 

[TrexMex]

The damn thing SAYS "NORMAL"... What more do you need to know about NORMAL? As long as it stays in that range it is NORMAL!
You, nor I either, know NOTHING about how many degrees F there is in the NORMAL area of the gauge. But FORD thinks it is NORMAL if the needle is in that range.
The reaction of the flow of coolant and the temperature sending unit varies depending on many things. Although the coolant might have gained or lost a few degrees It may take a minute or even more to register that gain or loss.. Stopping at a light slows the engine and therefore the coolant flow. As the engine has been at speed it has an excess of heat to place in the coolant...which has now slowed down in velocity.. It therefore takes a while to get that excess into the radiator. Mean time your gauge reads a bit warmer...BUT STILL IN THE NORMAL RANGE.. Got it? Your vehicle is NORMAL!
As for heads or oil or other.. FORGETABOUTIT..
The weak link in your coolant system is the coolant itself. The engine will bear lots more heat and still work fine than the coolant will. The gauge is there to warn you when you are losing coolant..not to warn you the temp is too hot to lose an engine.
Nascar runs their engines in the 240* operating range and sometimes the engines get to 260* and still run fine.
If your coolant ain't puking out of the overflow your engine is doing fine.
Big Jim

Well I guess I really panicked with the blown head/gasket diagnosis.... also I had a 3.0 before and was used to not seing the needle go higher than the first quarter in the dial but yeah thats a whole different engine with way different properties... Thanks for the reality check, and thanks for the reccomendation on cylinder pressure... Still learning here and appreciate a good, technical beating

 

[Big Jim M]

Pennzoil and Quaker State are made by the same company. Go to Wally World and pick up a bottle of each. Look on the back and you will see that the address to write to the company the exact same PO box.

Yep, both owned by the Shell Oil company. Same PO box, same 800 number to call if needed.

Actually Plainsranger there are 3 or 4 companys that put together oil and can it for all the oil companys nation wide.

Regardless of the brand writing on the can..if you purchase oil in the East US you prolly get one of the yankee oils from the east.
If you are in the Southwest you prolly get an oil from Texas or Oklahoma in your can.
Then there are the western states that get the California oil in their can.
My point is that whichever oil you purchase from your dealer it most likely has the same base oil in it. The only variables are the additives in that can.. Of which there are no secrets.. So there is little differences in oil.. I buy whatever is on sale. AND I get the same performance from my vehicles as anyone else does.
Oil is simply oil anymore. The higher price we pay is mostly to cover the advertising for that particular brand, and not for what is absolutely a BETTER oil.
Big Jim

 

[Kona]

. Ill never use a POS filter....Fram for me all the way. This is my opinion dont take it personally, use what you want.

Fram top of the line filters are ok there other garbage cut one apart and you won't feel so good!