Yet another axle swap

[88_Eddie]

lookin good

 

[bobbywalter]

with my previous powertrain i would destroy those arms in short order, i dont know how some guys are getting away with that


really like the cage around the cab in the back though

 

[1freaky1]

Yesterday was like watching the grass grow with waiting for parts to get clean. I started out soaking one of the coils and mounts in muratic acid & water to clean off the rust, it took about four hrs. Unfortunately the second coil had to sit over night in there to get cleaned. The first coil has been primed and painted w/ Gloss black hammer paint. Hoping sometime today to get the other one painted.
Pics in order
1- 1st placed coil in, look how clean the mix is
2-mix starting to work & change color
3- a little wire brush work
4-All painted up

 

[88_Eddie]

nice, what did you use? i just scrubbed everything with a wire wheel, it was a PITA

 

[1freaky1]

I used a mix of Muratic acid and water about a gallon of each. would have been better in a plastic 5 gal. bucket though so it would cover more surface area. I bought it at Home Depot for like $2/gal.

 

[1freaky1]

Finally it is sitting on its own weight again.I did see a couple things I need to correct like to passenger side coil is compressed more than the drivers side, the bolt holes for the retainer up top do not line up at all (bronco graveyard's parts), still need to cut a few more brackets off underneath for clearances, and finally move the radius arms inward around 1" to straighten the coils as well as keep the 35s from rubbing in full turn.

Here is the skid plate notched for the long arms to clear, it will be re-enforced soon

Bolts that do not line up

Possible clearance issue with the diff & motor mount

On the ground finally all this actually only raised the frame 4-1/2" from where it was before and a little more than 7" from stock you can also see the coils bowing outward

 

[dangerranger83]

From the looks of it, you didnt get enough lift for doing this and the coils are compressing to much or you need higher lift coils.

 

[legoms013]

Actually moving the lower retaining pads outward a bit would resolve the bowing of the coils. Or moving the coil buckets inward, but thats alot harder, and may not even be possible.

For the retaining tab on the coil bucket, just remove it, put it in a vice and bend it in a arced, round shape and go by trial an error to make it the right shape so it then lines up with the coil bucket bolt hole.

 

[1freaky1]

After doing some research I have come to this with the upper buckets, the Bronco Graveyard ones have a flat mounting surface for the coils where as the stock F100 & Broncos have a offset in them and this is causing the bow in the springs. Here are two pics that show the differences.

 

[1freaky1]

Yesterday I finally ordered my 1 ton cross over steering from RuffStuff, so hopefully I will be getting it going here soon and can move forward with the build.

 

[bobbywalter]

After doing some research I have come to this with the upper buckets, the Bronco Graveyard ones have a flat mounting surface for the coils where as the stock F100 & Broncos have a offset in them and this is causing the bow in the springs. Here are two pics that show the differences.

its hard to hash out, stock rbv coil buckets like to bow the springs from being too much angle, and flat improperly positioned buckets will cause the issue as well.


you can shim and adjust the lower to deal with bow as well.


what you do depends on specific setup you have to deal with.

 

[1freaky1]

I got my new RuffStuff 1 ton cross over steering kit, now need to drill and ream out the knuckles to get it all mounted up.

 

[Josh40601]

Let me know how you like their kit. I think i might go with the same setup after the Rube.

 

[1freaky1]

Let me know how you like their kit. I think i might go with the same setup after the Rube.

Will do Josh, it looks looks a nice kit when I got it, but I either need to change out my knuckles to the high steer ones from Reid Racing or buy a 3/4 ton TRE for the passenger side that has the hole in it and modify it for the drag link. Only thing there is I am seeing a lot of mixed reviews on the boards about doing that.
I am leaning towards the new knuckles.

 

[Josh40601]

If you are going to beat on it, go with the Reids. Or go 60 outers. A guy with a Jeep on 44/9" setup was running a hybrid 44/60 with 35 spline shafts and a spool. I dunno how popular or easy that swap is, but that takes care of the weakest point on a 44.... The Ball Joints.