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Yazoo mowers?


Engine will always be covered in coolant no matter how much you work on it. Have fun!

My K181 is always covered in coolant too. It's on the block, in the cylinder, hot coolant pouring out the exhaust any time its running, it is in the crank case. It's a mess.
 

Thanks for scareing me. I guess we'll run it and see. It runs strong and quiet now. I downloaded those too.

That guy in the 1st thread sounds like a "japanese is always better" guy seein as how he mentioned honda and kawi right off the bat. The honda engines, in typical honda fashion usually lack power and i aint been around kawis enough to form an opinion.
 
Thanks for scareing me. I guess we'll run it and see. It runs strong and quiet now. I downloaded those too.

That guy in the 1st thread sounds like a "japanese is always better" guy seein as how he mentioned honda and kawi right off the bat. The honda engines, in typical honda fashion usually lack power and i aint been around kawis enough to form an opinion.

Never been around a Honda but Kawi's in older Deere's are pretty good. Dad has a 185, the Kawasaki loves a good fight. The governor is right there, it is actually rather fun to listen to.
 
Never been around a Honda but Kawi's in older Deere's are pretty good. Dad has a 185, the Kawasaki loves a good fight. The governor is right there, it is actually rather fun to listen to.
Wernt the kawis the ones that like to melt rings?
 
Wernt the kawis the ones that like to melt rings?

The thing is about as old as I am and still runs great. On its third hydrostatic though. Never heard anyone complain about them.
 
Some general rules that might apply here.

If you own an opposed twin, try your best to NOT mow side hills. Lots of engines have died early deaths because of this. Some do better than others.
Change the hydrostat oil and filter religiously every year. In fact, I'd change it right now if it sat any time at all in a location where there are temperature swings.
Pay attention to the service intervals on that old engine, and follow them to the letter. I'd even change the oil early, ahead of the recommended hour interval..
Keep at least one extra set of points and a spare condenser around at all times.
Keep your points file in a handy spot as well.
If it's got a hydro oil temp warning gauge and it turns on, let the tractor cool off for at least an hour.
Don't run the engine at low RPM to moderate your speed. This doesn't let the hydro pump maintain the proper psi.

If it's anything like the old Onan opposed twins, it may benefit quite a bit from pulling the heads and do a de-carbon job on the heads and pistons, and what you can reach of the valves. It only costs you the price of 2 head gaskets if you can still find them.

These are just things I've learned over the years of owning opposed twins and other hydro mowers and farm equipment.
 
Some general rules that might apply here.

If you own an opposed twin, try your best to NOT mow side hills. Lots of engines have died early deaths because of this. Some do better than others.
Change the hydrostat oil and filter religiously every year. In fact, I'd change it right now if it sat any time at all in a location where there are temperature swings.
Pay attention to the service intervals on that old engine, and follow them to the letter. I'd even change the oil early, ahead of the recommended hour interval..
Keep at least one extra set of points and a spare condenser around at all times.
Keep your points file in a handy spot as well.
If it's got a hydro oil temp warning gauge and it turns on, let the tractor cool off for at least an hour.
Don't run the engine at low RPM to moderate your speed. This doesn't let the hydro pump maintain the proper psi.

If it's anything like the old Onan opposed twins, it may benefit quite a bit from pulling the heads and do a de-carbon job on the heads and pistons, and what you can reach of the valves. It only costs you the price of 2 head gaskets if you can still find them.

These are just things I've learned over the years of owning opposed twins and other hydro mowers and farm equipment.

Thats good info. Im going to go thru and change the fluids. The oil change interval is 50 hours. Itll get changed once a season after at most 6-10 hrs.

The hydrostat though, not sure what kind of fluid to use in it. Everything ive had in the past was gear drive besides that 2185 cub cadet i had and i never changed that.

Side hills, well, any hill for that matter wont be a concern, because this thing gets stuck on most of them lol. Ill keep the sunrunner around for the hilly sections. The only hills are in spots really to tight for this thing anyways. Its main use will be the side and back fields, all flat except for one gradual hill.

Dealing with points aint no thing to me.
 
You could look at getting better tires if you are getting stuck a lot. Or even a set of chains or cables to get a little extra bite. I've never had a yazoo so I don't know anything about them other than they look like they were made out of spare parts lying around lol. Older engines run strong but do use more fuel. Sounds like you wont have to worry about gas much since its just a few acres. I don't know about $525 dollars though. THat sounds pretty high to me. I guess location plays a big part too. I just search craigslist for good deals though. My latest mower is a LT2000 craftsman riding mower that I paid $40 for. Oh it came with a bagger too. The guy said they were cleaning out their barn and they didn't need this. They couldn't get it running for some reason. I gladly paid $40 and got it home. Put the jump pack on it and fresh gas and it fired right up. I did have to buy a battery since it was obsolete but that was only $30 at Walmart. Only thing ba is it has 2 flat tires, 1 front and 1 rear. Which I actually have extra tires from my old mower so I can put those right on since it was a craftsman too. Here is a pic of my $40 purchase.
 

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You could look at getting better tires if you are getting stuck a lot. Or even a set of chains or cables to get a little extra bite. I've never had a yazoo so I don't know anything about them other than they look like they were made out of spare parts lying around lol. Older engines run strong but do use more fuel. Sounds like you wont have to worry about gas much since its just a few acres. I don't know about $525 dollars though. THat sounds pretty high to me. I guess location plays a big part too. I just search craigslist for good deals though. My latest mower is a LT2000 craftsman riding mower that I paid $40 for. Oh it came with a bagger too. The guy said they were cleaning out their barn and they didn't need this. They couldn't get it running for some reason. I gladly paid $40 and got it home. Put the jump pack on it and fresh gas and it fired right up. I did have to buy a battery since it was obsolete but that was only $30 at Walmart. Only thing ba is it has 2 flat tires, 1 front and 1 rear. Which I actually have extra tires from my old mower so I can put those right on since it was a craftsman too. Here is a pic of my $40 purchase.
Well, you suck!



On another forum I'm on that is high praise!
 
You could look at getting better tires if you are getting stuck a lot. Or even a set of chains or cables to get a little extra bite. I've never had a yazoo so I don't know anything about them other than they look like they were made out of spare parts lying around lol. Older engines run strong but do use more fuel. Sounds like you wont have to worry about gas much since its just a few acres. I don't know about $525 dollars though. THat sounds pretty high to me. I guess location plays a big part too. I just search craigslist for good deals though. My latest mower is a LT2000 craftsman riding mower that I paid $40 for. Oh it came with a bagger too. The guy said they were cleaning out their barn and they didn't need this. They couldn't get it running for some reason. I gladly paid $40 and got it home. Put the jump pack on it and fresh gas and it fired right up. I did have to buy a battery since it was obsolete but that was only $30 at Walmart. Only thing ba is it has 2 flat tires, 1 front and 1 rear. Which I actually have extra tires from my old mower so I can put those right on since it was a craftsman too. Here is a pic of my $40 purchase.
I didnt think 500 was bad. Theres just engines for them on ebay for 400 lol.

I paid 725 IIRC for the sunrunner 10 or so years ago. I have a cub cadet that was given to me that runs and mows but its got a cracked block...and i dont really feel like taking a connecting rod to the sack at 3500rpm
 
Most of the Simplicity/Allis tractors with the Sunstrand hydros used "universal tractor fluid" but I found the following manual which is very detailed:

http://schuurmansfarmsupply.com/wp-...-YHR-Series-Comercial-Mower-Owners-Manual.pdf

"HYDRAULIC SYSTEM - I . . SUNDSTRAND BDU-21 hydrostatic transmission coupled to a Y AlOO trans- 1 axle axle using SAE 30 weight oil API service SG,SF/CC,CD"

"FLUID CAPACITIES - US gallons (liters) . Fuel tank 4.6 (17.4) Ii) . Lubricating oil, engine (by model number) YHRLK23 US pints (liters) 8.0 (3.8) YHRLW20 US pints (liters) 7 (3.4) YHRLK20, YHRK20 US pints (liters) 3.5 (1.7) YHRLK18, YHRK18 US pints (liters) 3.5 (1.7) f . Lubricating oil, SAE 30 weight oil API service SG,SF/CC,CD for ~ transaxle/hydraulic system " US quarts (liters) 6.0(5.7)."

"4 Change hydraulic oil and filter (1) as follows: (,- ~t . Ensure that engine is not running and that hydraulic system is bled.
Place container under filter (1) and remove filter (1). . Place a container under drainplug (2) and remove drainplug (2). i . Install drainplug (2) when oil stops flowing. I . Moisten sealing ring of new filter (1) and install filter (1)., : . Fill reservior with 6 qts. SAE 30W oil, API service SG, SF/CC,CD. . Run engine at idle and check for leaks."
 

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