Wrist pin noise

[XLTsplash]

I've been trying to fix the chattering/marbling type noise in my 2.3L for a while now. It sounded like valve train noise. My oil pressure was good. I installed new Ford lifters and followers and still had the noise. I checked the oil pick up screen and it was clean. I installed a new oil pump and a New cylinder head with all new or reconditioned parts. I still have the same noise. I hear it at idle with the engine warmed up. It seemed to be under the valve cover, now I've noticed it's loud at the passenger side wheel well area. I can't pin point were it's loudest with a stethoscope, I can hear it, It just sounds like it transmitting. All of the lifters in the new head seemed to be pumped up. With all of the parts I've replace I'm just thinking maybe it's not in the valve train. Then I found this at youfixcars.com =

A wrist pin knock has a unique sound. This sound will be different depending on how many wrist pins are making noise. If all the wrist pins are loose this will sound like an overwhelming rattling inside the engine.This sound is described as a double knock, because it will cause a noise at the top of the piston travel and when the piston changes direction it will make another noise. This noise is most notable when the engine is idling and the engine is also hot.

This sounds like it could be the problem. What do you guys think ? I order new pistons, pins, rings and bearings. Has anyone seen this in a 2.3L or any other engine ? I did read about marbling noises at idle in 4.0Ls caused by wrist pins.
This will just be a lot of work for me and and don't want to waste more time and money and still have the same noise. The engine has 132K miles on thw 1997 2.3L.

 

[Mikel89us]

The wrist pins in these raely make noise, but it is possible. The last time I thought I had a bad wrist pin I pulled the motor out. And found a broken piston.

 

[RonD]

I have found it helpful to remove the "fan belts" when trying to track down a noise, makes it much quieter in engine bay.
You can run a cold engine for a few minutes without water pump.

And one time I did this I discovered it was the water pump making the noise, lol.

 

[XLTsplash]

I've never had a wrist pin noise in the many 2.3Ls I've owned. I've had 2.3Ls with rod knock and piston slap .They have all been older 2.3Ls. I didn't know how many things Ford changed on the 2.3Ls over the years. The cylinder head and pistons are 95/97 only. I don't know if Ford changed things and messed them up. I've always thought of the 2.3L as one of Fords best engines ever. I've seen many with high miles and no problems. I never thought I would have problems like this in my 97 2.3L with only 132K miles. Even if it's not the wrist pin making the noise I just hope I can find and fix the cause of the noise. I've read in other posts about other 2.3Ls with the same type of noise, they just never posted what the cause was or if they ever fixed it. Removing the belt is a good idea. My engine only makes the noise when it's warmed up. It's not that I can't hear the noise. The problem is the noise sounds muffled with the stethoscope. If it is coming from a loose piston on the wrist pin ,you have the coolant passages going around the cylinder muffling the noise. I,m thinking that maybe why I don't feel like I'm getting directly on the noise with the stethoscope.

 

[adsm08]

So unplug the injectors while it's running, one at a time.

If you find one that shuts it up, it's a wrist pin noise.

 

[tomw]

I was going to suggest pulling the plug wires one at a time, but figured the cat wouldn't like all that extra fuel. Just about ready to type what adsm08 contributed. I think the injectors have a spring that keeps them in place. The spring must be sprung a bit to get them off the injector connector, so be prepared to use a mumble mumble - brain fart - needle thing that is long, like an awl, with a very sharp tip, to move the spring out of place to allow connector removal. I'd try to pop the springs before starting the engine, or at least get them loose. You may have a 'new & improved' design.
tom

add: If you are using a real stethoscope, I would remove the diaphragm on the end of the tube, and use it bare. If you don't have one, a piece of tubing is a pretty good substitute.

 

[XLTsplash]

I pulled the engine out of my Ranger. I couldn't feel any play between the pistons and wrist pins. I did find number 3 rod bearing the a deep groove in it and had copper showing. If it was the rod bearing making the noise it seems strange because I could only hear the clattering noise at idle. I installed new pistons, rings , bearings, brass freeze plugs and a new motor mount. I had already installed a new head, water pump, oil pump, clutch and timing set. So everything is fresh. I've only put about 40 miles on it so far. It's running good and not leaking plus it doesn't seem to be making that clattering noise anymore that sounded more like a lifter than a rod bearing.

 

[Mikel89us]

Could have just been a worn piston skirt causing a slap.

 

[tomw]

XLT did you happen to notice if there was a slug of metal in the oil passage leading from the block to the cylinder head? On the drivers side, rearward, there is a passage built into the gasket that 'transfers' oil horizontally between a block port and the port feeding the cam bearings & lifters. Back when, a slug was plopped into the port that was moved out of the way by oil pressure & flow. Once the pressure dropped, the slug fell back and closed the port to keep oil in the cylinder head.
I have never seen it on a FoMoCo blow up of the Lima. But I swear I saw one.
tom

 

[Mikel89us]

Tom, I've been in about 30-40 of these motors if not more, and I've never seen what you are describing.

 

[XLTsplash]

I blew out the passages and didn't see any slug of metal. The piston skirts didn't have any rub marks on them and I couldn't feel any play between the piston and the pin. I wanted to use all Ford replacement parts, you just can't get them anymore. The Sealed Power brand pistons are a thinner than the factory pistons. I couldn't find any other options for a standard size replacement piston. I didn't want to reuse my old pistons and pins because I wanted to replace everything while I was that deep into the engine.

 

[Mikel89us]

The sealed power are thinner but stronger. They are hypereutectic, stock are cast aluminum.

 

[XLTsplash]

The picture on line for the part number pistons I bought showed a black coating on the skirts with their logo. My pistons didn't have the coating, so I hope the ones I got are the hypereutectic. Before I even got the new pistons installed I broke one of them. The rod flopped over, hit the skirt and broke it off. So I had to go buy another new piston. That's why I was a little worried about them being too thin.

 

[Mikel89us]

They don't sell a regular cast aluminum piston.

 

[ljones]

All of the sealed power racing pistons have the coating and logo you described. They probably just used it as a stock photo. My 2.3 has around 6k on all sealed power stuff on the inside with no problems yet.