Work In Progress

[86MUDRCJ]

Replaced the water pump yesterday and now it runs pretty good ad far as heat goes. Now I need to do a tune up. I think one of the plugwires is bad.

 

[upnsmoke]

You ever get the tune up sorted on this thing? Also, I was wondering, were you able to keep your front inner fenders with the cut and the flares? Even looking at the above picture, I still maintain that it appears you got more than 4" lift, at least in the front. Regardless, your truck looks awesome with the flairs, the stance/ ride height, and the 33s.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

You ever get the tune up sorted on this thing? Also, I was wondering, were you able to keep your front inner fenders with the cut and the flares? Even looking at the above picture, I still maintain that it appears you got more than 4" lift, at least in the front. Regardless, your truck looks awesome with the flairs, the stance/ ride height, and the 33s.

I had a set of wires layin around so I threw it on there and it now it idles pretty smooth. I'm gonna do a full tune up in a couple weeks because I have to smog it. but after that hopefully a 5.0 swap with the inner fenders I did cut out quite a bit ill snap some pics when I get the time. I have been reading up on the lift and I might have gotten a set of 6" springs but everyone I asked said their 4" lift is closer to 6. I'm guessing that the coils don't ever soften up that you end up with a 6" lift. Thanks for the compliments it's far from done just haven't had the time/money lately.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Just got some random pics today. First time I've stretched it out since I put the flares on. Doesn't rub at all:

My favorite:

Now all it needs is a sas!

 

[a31ford]

Is it a 4x4 only kit? Mines a 2wd, looking for a decent, simple lift. Not planning on crawling with this truck, just want some 31's under there and maintain nice clearance at the wheels. I love my truck, but the old 2wd's are too low to the ground, imho. Makes taking the bikes out kinda tricky, sometimes.

Beautiful truck, btw. I love that front bumper you have on there. Ever since I saw that the other day, I've been looking out for one for mine. Can't find a company that makes new ones any more.

Ya know, you can build a 3" BODY lift yourself. I can list the info if you want.

Greg

 

[86MUDRCJ]

I'm actually interested in knowing how I can go about it because I just can't force myself to pay for something that can be easily made.

 

[a31ford]

I'm actually interested in knowing how I can go about it because I just can't force myself to pay for something that can be easily made.

OK, how I made my 3" body lift. (I'll add photo's later) lets get the basics first.

For the body (assuming an extended cab), you will need 6 "Riser" blocks (tubes).

What I did was a chunk of 3" schd 40 pipe cut to 2-3/4"" lengths.

I also used 6 pcs. of Heavy Wall Schd 80 3/4' (ID) as a center "Anti-crush".

12 1/8" thick 3-1/8" Diameter washer made with a rigid brand "hole saw" in a drill press. (home depot). and a mandrel for the hole saw.

3-1/8" ends up being 3" ID, Now here's the thing, this is the exact same OD as the large pipe's ID BUT don't forget about the anti-crush's.

So I lined up the anti-crush tubes centered on the mandrel's pilot hole, and welded them to one washer (to keep them from sliding to one side when the through-bolts go on.) I then flipped them over and laid them on top of the 3" pipe, since the anti-crush is inside, it acts like a support for the washer to weld it to the 3", then flip the entire thing over, and weld the other washer to the other side (the anti-crush is welded to only one washer).

What you should end up with are 6 units that look like a 3" tube with a plate on both ends, I then drilled out the original pilot hole with a 1/2" bit in the drill press (I used a large pipe wrench wedged against the back tube of the drill press to keep the 3" pipe "riser blocks" from spinning as I "Line-bored" the two end plates, (through the anti-crush center tubes).

Next, I used some 3" "C" channel for the box risers, simply making 4 (four) cross rails with 4 holes in each ( there are only 6 bolts in the box (3 sets of rails), BUT there is a "blind" rail in front of the rear axle, since I wanted to carry stuff in the box, I also made a cross bar for this one, but with only 2 holes, as to bolt it to each frame rail. The BACK pair of cross bars ALSO got a pair of joiners that went between them, creating a "box", this releives the stress load front to back when braking and starting off. I welded these in place after I had the cross bars lined up on the frame.

As far as the steering column goes, just above the steering box, there is a "slip joint" remove the cross bolt, and the two plate bolts, and the slip joint can be removed from the truck as to "slip it" in a vise with a bar and hammer. You should be able to get the full 3" out of it, but that would depend on the year of the truck, as a buddy when to do it, and his would only go 1" so we had to insert a splice in his slip joint to get the full 3" (actuall it's a bit more, because of the angle, so MEASURE it before you modify the slip joint.

Parking Brake, I had a chunk of flat bar (3/8" thick, 1-1/4" wide, and about 4" long.

The P brake (cab side) would NOT reach the original mount, (and I didn't want to try and strech it for fear of braking the casing on the cable), I simply drilled a pair of holes the right size and bolted the bar (pointing up) to the original cable mount on the side of the frame (grade 8 bolt, 2 washers and a lockwasher), just under the DR door. I then inserted the cable in the other hole, just as if it was the original mount, all of the rear portions of the P brake, are stock.

The Bumpers, I scabbed up a set of flat mounts that would raise the bumpers up to the new body height, you can see the frane-rail ends under the bumpers, but IMO, the bumpers look better beside the body, instead of "floating in space".

Fuel filler...... because it gets real cold where I live, I DID NOT want to try and stretch the top of the fuel tank (plastic) so currently my filler rides under the hole, loose, I take the cap off, and pop just the rim of the filler through the hole behind the door It's PITA, but will soon have the time to work on it. (will repost to this message, once it's done).

OOT (One Other Thing), the 3" c-channels at the back, I'm in the process of making a 2" receiver that mounts between the bottom of the bumper, and into the 3" c channels, again, I'll post here, as time to finish permits.


The bolts for the risers where grade 8, 1/2" there are two different sizes needed if I remember correctly the original rubber mounts are about 2-3/4" thick, add your risers between them and the original rubbers, bolts on cab where 7" long, bolts in rad support where 6" long (you will have to double check this). washers and lock washer AS WELL AS (nylon pem locking nuts)

The Bolts for the box, I re-used the original torx bolts and frame clips in the c-channel to box, this way the box still comes off, just like factory. for the c-channel to frame, I use grade 12 bolts (pretty sure they where 1/2" also, but can't remember), but only like 2" long, washers and lock washer, AS WELL AS (nylon pem locking nuts).

The box bolts, where coated with "Anti-Seize" for bolt removal at a later date.

Photo's to follow (they are on a backup CD some where......)

Greg

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Alright thanks man. In another note I might be gettin a whole parts explorer depending on how much the guy wants for it. So might be doin a 4.0 swap sooner than I expected.

 

[90jurassic2]

Greatest looking first gen ranger I've seen in a long time. I don't know about doing a body lift, I've never liked those. It seems to sit perfect how it is until you do a SAS. Anyways, nice truck man!!!!!

 

[a31ford]

Greatest looking first gen ranger I've seen in a long time. I don't know about doing a body lift, I've never liked those. It seems to sit perfect how it is until you do a SAS. Anyways, nice truck man!!!!!

He does have a good looking rig, doesn't he...

Greg

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Thanks guys its come a ways since I first got. I have to smog it here I. The next couple weeks so we will see how it goes. I might do bl because if I swap motors I want a little wiggle room. I really need to find some axles so I can sas them after that ill add bumpers winch and all the other fun goodies.might do a camo paint job here soon because the paint is Alittle rough.

 

[90jurassic2]

Haha your paint looks flawless compared to mine. Hopefully I'll be down in Cali when you do your axle swap. I'm planning on getting full width 44 and a Ford 9" rear. Could you upload more pictures of your CB and how you wired it? I have a cobra 19 too and I'm trying to figure out where to mount it.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Ill snap some pics of it when it's brighter outside. I took it wheelin and scratched it up pretty good so that's why I'm repaintin it that way if I scratch it just spray back over it. I'm thinkin d44/9 too but if I can get my hands on d44/60 them I'm not complaining. Haha.

 

[90jurassic2]

My truck still has to be a daily driver, so I don't know about puttin 60's under it. I've heard about the Chevy 14 bolt rear. It's almost a bolt up to and truck, and its pretty strong. My friend has one in his '64 Chev.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Iirc the 14bolt is gm's way of saying a Dana 60, but I'm not 100% sure. I daily drive mine also but if ya build it right the first time then you don't have to later. Plus with 60's people don't judge the truck as a mall crawler anymore.