First check that you have 12v(battery voltage) at each coil with key on, center wire at each coil should have 12volts.
Unfortunately the ICM(ignition control module) was put in the computer(PCM) after 1995.
So outside of testing for spark while cranking there is no test I know of for that.
The only other part involved with spark is the CKP sensor, crank position sensor, not Cam position.
It is located near main crank pulley and reads the teeth in a crank mounted wheel(tone ring).
This sensor sends pulses to computer which sets spark base timing, without pulses there is no spark.
The CKP sensor generates its own AC voltage as teeth pass by it, if you hook up a volt meter set to AC volts and crank the engine you should see .5 to 1.5vAC.
If voltage jumps around sensor may be to far away from teeth(tone ring).
The 2 wires for the CKP sensor go directly back to computer, so you would need to removed computer connector to test those wires.
Fords PATS(passive anti-theft) will cut spark if correct key is not used in ignition switch.
There is a longshot issue which I have heard of but have never ran across myself.
The main pulley's woodruff key shearing off, this of course changes the spark timing at CKP.
Just to take that off the table I would set main pulley at TDC 0deg mark then check that #1 piston is indeed at TDC, i.e. remove spark plug and makes sure piston is at the top of it's stroke.
In this case it doesn't matter if it is compression or exhaust stroke, just that TDC mark matches pistons true location, at top dead center.
Unfortunately the ICM(ignition control module) was put in the computer(PCM) after 1995.
So outside of testing for spark while cranking there is no test I know of for that.
The only other part involved with spark is the CKP sensor, crank position sensor, not Cam position.
It is located near main crank pulley and reads the teeth in a crank mounted wheel(tone ring).
This sensor sends pulses to computer which sets spark base timing, without pulses there is no spark.
The CKP sensor generates its own AC voltage as teeth pass by it, if you hook up a volt meter set to AC volts and crank the engine you should see .5 to 1.5vAC.
If voltage jumps around sensor may be to far away from teeth(tone ring).
The 2 wires for the CKP sensor go directly back to computer, so you would need to removed computer connector to test those wires.
Fords PATS(passive anti-theft) will cut spark if correct key is not used in ignition switch.
There is a longshot issue which I have heard of but have never ran across myself.
The main pulley's woodruff key shearing off, this of course changes the spark timing at CKP.
Just to take that off the table I would set main pulley at TDC 0deg mark then check that #1 piston is indeed at TDC, i.e. remove spark plug and makes sure piston is at the top of it's stroke.
In this case it doesn't matter if it is compression or exhaust stroke, just that TDC mark matches pistons true location, at top dead center.
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