Will these pistons fit in '88 Mustang 2.3l?

[ShotnVA777]

Simple question, just need a simple answer...

ONLY reason I ask, is because under the "applications tab", it says...

"FORD
Result 1 of 1
Make: FORD
Beginning Year: 1995
Ending Year: 1997
Engine Type: L4
Liter: 2.3
CID: 140
Engine Size: 2.3L/140
Engine Family: Ford 4-cylinder
Application Notes: Light duty truck engines."

Where I've put the quoted information, I put in BOLD what bothers me!

Arent all Lima's the same? As long as it's 2.3? And these are flat topped with a 96.00mm bore - is that overbored .030? Cuz that's what I'd like to have!

Thanks fellas!

 

[Mikel89us]

Yes they will fit.

As for bore size, do they have a +.25 +.50 +.75 or +1.0 mm distinguishing number. I don't remember stock bore in mm. But a +.75mm piston is the same as a +.030"

 

[ShotnVA777]

Yes they will fit.

As for bore size, do they have a +.25 +.50 +.75 or +1.0 mm distinguishing number. I don't remember stock bore in mm. But a +.75mm piston is the same as a +.030"

Thanks!

Here's the ones I was planning on ordering, my DA forgot to put the link... These are .030 over???

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wh676p

 

[Mikel89us]

Those are stock bore, you need the 96.77 mm pistons. What ever vehicle you buy pistons for though, make sure you get rings for the same year, I think they changed in the early 90's

 

[Kenneth S]

Get the pistons, and any other parts you need for the block/crank you are using, using a 1988 Mustang 2.3 block/crank, get the block/crank parts for a 1988 Mustang 2.3 (better safe than sorry).

 

[ShotnVA777]

Yes they will fit.

As for bore size, do they have a +.25 +.50 +.75 or +1.0 mm distinguishing number. I don't remember stock bore in mm. But a +.75mm piston is the same as a +.030"

Get the pistons, and any other parts you need for the block/crank you are using, using a 1988 Mustang 2.3 block/crank, get the block/crank parts for a 1988 Mustang 2.3 (better safe than sorry).

Conflicting opinions from what seem to both be "guru's"... Which one is it?! Lol

Those are stock bore, you need the 96.77 mm pistons. What ever vehicle you buy pistons for though, make sure you get rings for the same year, I think they changed in the early 90's

SO... If I wanted to overbore, that would be a (1988??) 2.5L piston, correct???? So I would just get 2.5L pistons and THEN have the block bored out .030 over???

Or is that COMPLETELY incorrect???

 

[Mikel89us]

No the 2.5 has the same stock bore, summit sells the pistons oversized. I'll look it up. As for the conflicting opinions, the better safe than sorry isn't a bad idea, however, the same rods and wrist pins were used in all 2.3 bottom ends.

2.5 has a longer rod, and longer stroke, so the wrist pin is wwaaaay higher in the piston, almost half an inch I believe. So the 2.5 pistons would sit way below the deck at top center. And it wouldn't work.

 

[Road Angels]

If you check it out the main difference is the ring thickness 1.5mm-2.0mm, 3.0mm, 4.0mm, and oil ring style one piece, or 3 piece being better, if you have the block bored with a torque plate then the thinner ring will work less drag, if your doing a re-ring then the thicker ring is a better choice all are for press fit pins, skirts are the same except the silver lights are coated, for a dd I would go the thicker 3.0 top ring

 

[Mikel89us]

He wants a performance engine, the thinner rings will seal better for his application. Which ever you get , spend the money for molybdenum rings. They have a coating on the outside of the ring, and it protects the cly from wear better.

 

[Kenneth S]

The 2.5L pistons have about a 3/8" shorter compression height piston which would seriously lower your compression ratio if used with a 2.3 crank, and rods. Also the 1989 and later 2.3, and 2.5 blocks have smaller diameter mains than the 1988, and earlier 2.3's (which is why I recommended getting 1988 Mustang 2.3 engine parts for a engine that came out of a 1988 Mustang).

So if you want to build a 2.5L stroker engine and you want to run a distributor you need to use the 1989-1994 2.3 block, you can use a 2.5 crank in a 1988 and earlier 2.3 block, but you will special, and expensive main bearing spacers that are special made http://www.needhp.com/ford23bearingspacers-smalljournalcrankinalargejournalblock.aspx.


When using a 1988 year model 2.3 I'd measure the main journals on the crankshaft just to make sure you get the right main bearings. 1988, and earlier 2.3 crankshaft main journal diameter 2.3986". 1989, and later 2.3 main journal diameter 2.2055".

 

[Kenneth S]

If you are going to use a hypereutectic piston to build a 7000 rpm race engine get these pistons if you are using a stock 2.3 crank, and stock length connecting rods. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb217-030/overview/make/ford

If you want to use forged pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wis-k120a3/overview/make/ford

 

[Mikel89us]

I have not heard good things about the Keith Black hypers. Their forged seem ko, but I've heard many times of the top of the piston coming apart.

 

[ShotnVA777]

If you are going to use a hypereutectic piston to build a 7000 rpm race engine get these pistons if you are using a stock 2.3 crank, and stock length connecting rods. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb217-030/overview/make/ford

Gosh 'ol mighty... Price went up quite a bit! Haha...

I guess THESE will be my pistons, because I just don't ever plan to go boosted and I've been asking for a DIRECT link for which pistons would fit! So these are just the stock bore correct?

I'm guessing going .030 overbore just REALLY isn't all that big of a difference huh? LOL

I'm going to roll with these... Because the only other thing(s) I REALLY plan to do are get better springs, retainers, etc, for the head. So it can keep up with the high compression, high revving motor. I'm going to have the head milled .100", have them work the combustion chamber, port and polish the head....

So now that I have the pistons that I will need, I would like to look into everything else I'll need to finish off this screamer!! ANY recommendations on (maybe bigger?) Valves? What about springs and retainers? A cam? I plan to TRY to keep the stock rods/crank, if that kind of running motor will handle it! Which I think they can, IF I've read correctly. ANYMORE DIRECT LINKS TO THE REMAINING PARTS I WILL NEED??? So I can have this pup in the machine shop at the beginning of the year???

 

[ShotnVA777]

Ok didn't see THIS...

I have not heard good things about the Keith Black hypers. Their forged seem ko, but I've heard many times of the top of the piston coming apart.

I'm going Hypers, have NO INTENTIONS of EVER boosting or EVER going over 200-250ish HP.

So are these the pistons I should get or no?

Once again, conflicting.

 

[Kenneth S]

I have not heard good things about the Keith Black hypers. Their forged seem ko, but I've heard many times of the top of the piston coming apart.

Here's the sealed power .030" over hypers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h537p30/overview/make/ford


I've never run hypers, in any engine I build that will be raced, I use forged (but that's just me). You can ask 10 different engine builders for piston recommendations, and they usually won't all be the same. Decisions, decisions, decisions!