Will not start

[RonD]

Yes but you're asking for trouble. I'd replace the whole thing and not have to r&r it again when the rest of the starter fails, which if you're like me will happen soon after replacing the solenoid.

+1 ^^^

Solenoid melted for a reason, starter motor was starting to draw too many AMPs

 

[SirSantie]

Now just to make sure would the starter gone bad if the battery was low? And if the battery was low would that mean that the fuel pump could have went bad too?

 

[RonD]

Starter motor just won't work if battery is low, solenoid can't keep contact closed and opens up, this is what makes the "click, click, click" noise when your battery is low and you try to start engine.

Your solenoid most likely melted because starter motor was pulling too many amps thru it

Fuel pump is an electric motor, so doesn't "like" low voltage or high voltage, but unless it was already failing I doubt low battery voltage would effect it

 

[SirSantie]

UPDATE!!!!

Just bought a brand new starter from napa and a brand new battery from AutoZone. Ranger starts right up. Takes couple cranks but starts and after its starts it has a rough idle and a awful take off like if it wants to choke and die... No CEL so I am left in the Dark... Any suggestions? Think I should still replace the fuel pump?

 

[RonD]

Get/rent a fuel pressure gauge, but if truck runs OK at higher speed then fuel pump wouldn't be the issue
idle takes very little fuel
50mph takes more fuel

So if idle is bad but 50mph is OK then won't be fuel issue

But that being said, dirty injectors drip fuel instead of spraying fuel, at idle air flow is low so dripping injectors don't get a good air fuel mix so can cause misfires.
At higher RPM air flow is faster so better mix even with dripped fuel

Also test battery with volt meter
New battery should be 12.8 volts

Start engine, battery should now read 14.8 volts, 2 volts higher

 

[SirSantie]

CEL codes

P1152
P0175
P1507

 

[RonD]

You should post the definitions with the codes

P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2)

P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen(O2) Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
Bank 2 is Drivers side

P1507 Idle Air Control Underspeed Error(IAC Valve code)

The first 2 are basically the same, computer has reduced the fuel going to Bank 2 by 15% or more because O2 sensor on that Bank was showing less Oxygen in the exhaust that it should, so Rich

Are there any symptoms of Rich running, i.e. poor MPG or darkish smoke out exhaust pipe?
Pull out the spark plugs on Drivers side to see if any have blackish color indicating Rich burn in that cylinder, could be sticking injector

P1507 IAC Valve
After engine is warmed up and idling unplug IAC Valve's 2 wire connector, RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, either is GOOD
If idle doesn't change then you have a bad IAC Valve or vacuum leak
Pull IAC Valve off, 2 bolts
Turn on the key
IAC valve should open, valve will move
Unplug the wires again and it should close
Plug wires back in and it should open again
Repeat this a few times to make sure it is not sticking

 

[SirSantie]

I just removed he IAC valve to clean it and it didn't look bad at all however it is missing the gasket.
Also the IAC valve is making a loud noise.
When i unplug it obviously the noise goes away and the rpms do drop but the truck stay idling.

 

[RonD]

IAC valve can make a whistling noise which comes from the black cap, it means there is a small leak in the valve's seal.
Black cap pops off, it covers the vent that allows air BEHIND the valve to equalize, so not supposed to be part of the air going into the engine

No tachometer on this truck?

 

[SirSantie]

got done messing with that black cap. There was like a cotton filter under that cap that seemed to be clogging any type of air flow so once i removed it the noise went away but now theres a strange humming noise coming from the air intake were the mass air flow sensor is.

 

[RonD]

Yes, that was a filter

 

[SirSantie]

UPDATE

Noise coming from the intake manifold wend away but still idles very poor.

Just replaced the IAC Valve and guess what the truck still idles poorly. I didn't want to spend more money on this but I'm afraid I'm going to need to. What should I do next ignition coil and wires?

Codes P1152 - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I would still check fuel pressure. I believe you can rent/borrow one at Autozone. I went through that with my one Ranger. It would run fine most of the time but sometimes had issues and was slowly getting worse. Borrowed a fuel pressure tester from my neighbor (retired mechanic) and found that I was getting only 25 psi or so to the rail, less than half of what I was supposed to have. Replacing the pump wasn't too bad, pull or tilt the bed and pop put the sender. Put a new pump on it with a new sock and you're good.

I would also check the wiring to that O2 sensor and make sure it wasn't damaged anywhere.


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet

 

[SirSantie]

UPDATE

So i went to remove the O2 sensor on the diverside before the catalytic and guess what I removed it and then i seen that in the wire connector part of the O2 sensor wiring harness the ends are burned and all wires are touching each other.
My question is how do I take apart the plug in part of the O3 sensor to re wire it