Who has broken a Dana 35?

[mjonesjr]

It was a third shock to reduce axle wrap on SOME Explorers. It was NEVER offered on a Ranger.

 

[stevenf]

So its just a 10lb weight to help with axle wrap??? Doesnt seem like it serves its purpose.

 

[4x4junkie]

It's a vibration dampener. You can chuck it, it's worthless unsprung weight.

Yes, you'll need the u-joint flange from the Explorer for the 8.8" axle flange.

 

[mjonesjr]

Or a special flange to go from the stock 1310 u-joint on your stock drive shaft to the bolt pattern of the 8.8 flange.

 

[bobbywalter]

on this side of the missisippi, for the most part...i have to say the only logical upgrade from a d35 is a 60.


but, there are advanatages in certain terrain that a straight axle works better then any ifs..and vice versa...this is where a d44 or d30 may be all a guy needs to have a ability to work better lines.

theres many places the ttb actually stopped me from clearing the obstacle.

varied reasons for that, from grenading the slip after popping a spider and 2 shafts to ripping the steering links up..or unloaded push ect.


i am impressed that junkie doesnt kill steering parts and boxes ect. very good driving. but i just like idiot lines some times just for the what if factor.

 

[stevenf]

So the explorer flange piece will fit the bronco shaft piece? It would be two different size u-joints. Im lost.

 

[mjonesjr]

look through my BII build thread. You can get a 1310 u-joint flange with the Explorer/Ranger 8.8 flange bolt pattern on it from a drive line shop. The stock u-joint you have is a style 1310. The Rangers/Explorers use a 1330 u-joint.

You can also get a 1310 x 1330 conversion u-joint. The flange is cheaper and easier. I got mine for $25 out the door.

 

[stevenf]

So I tell them I need a flange adapter for a 1310 U-joint with a *** bolt pattern?

 

[bobbywalter]

look through my BII build thread. You can get a 1310 u-joint flange with the Explorer/Ranger 8.8 flange bolt pattern on it from a drive line shop. The stock u-joint you have is a style 1310. The Rangers/Explorers use a 1330 u-joint.

You can also get a 1310 x 1330 conversion u-joint. The flange is cheaper and easier. I got mine for $25 out the door.

rbv do not have 1330 factory. thankfully so too. 1330's suck. i been using them on my 60's since it is what most come with and need to upgrade to 1350 or go back to 1310's...major issues with breakage.


the little one in the rbv is a 1210(bf 456), the big one is a 1310. those are old school numbers but what i refer to em as.


there two bolt patterns for the 7.5/8.8, sploders use the larger. later model t cases do as well i have noticed. the 1210 drive shaft and most b2 shafts uses the smaller bolt patterns.

i have seen the smaller pattern flange on mark 8.8's. but with the 1310 joint just like the rbv. but that flage aows use of the 1210 flange on a 8.8.

but why would anybody want that.?.?

 

[Wanderer]

tony i will give you a report after i have had my d35 in over a year. i mite only be running 33s for now but trust me i will prove if 33s are the limit for having a reliable d35 or not.

86

been wheelin rangers for 8 years...33's-34's are the limit for minimum damage!..

 

[rickcdewitt]

Myself being one of them....

open diff and auto right?

 

[mjonesjr]

rbv do not have 1330 factory. thankfully so too. 1330's suck. i been using them on my 60's since it is what most come with and need to upgrade to 1350 or go back to 1310's...major issues with breakage.


the little one in the rbv is a 1210(bf 456), the big one is a 1310. those are old school numbers but what i refer to em as.


there two bolt patterns for the 7.5/8.8, sploders use the larger. later model t cases do as well i have noticed. the 1210 drive shaft and most b2 shafts uses the smaller bolt patterns.

i have seen the smaller pattern flange on mark 8.8's. but with the 1310 joint just like the rbv. but that flage aows use of the 1210 flange on a 8.8.

but why would anybody want that.?.?

Thanks for the heads up Bobby.

I knew it was a large and small joints, I thought those numbers were correct.

 

[stevenf]

So do I have 1310's stock right now? Im lost.

 

[D.T.Starr]

I personally have broken 5 driver's side shafts in 2.5 years, always the ears of both the inner and outer were destroyed. 3 were with welded caps on new non binding joints. All with a ext cab 4.0L auto and 35s or 36's.
in my opinion, listen to what Will and 4x4Junkie have to say and work within the limits of the axle and the TTB can be durable enough and should be fine with 33" tires, and even some light 35's if you are aware of what you are doing.

 

[stevenf]

I am all for upgrading. I have gotten these axle dirt cheap so I am more then willing to throw some upgrades underneath the Bronco. Im just confused as to what I need.
Is the U-joint on the D35 axle also a 1330 like the stock explorer drive shafts? What exactly is the 760x? Is it the same size just stronger material? What would you guys recommend I do? Should I take a driveshaft from an explorer and just bolt it up so both ends will be 1330's? I want this thing to be as dependable as possible without upgrading axles.