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where do I start?


Well i am planning on rebuilding and have been researching the option of a 331 stroker. Originally I planned to do a 347 but I've been told the short pistons cause issues and make the 347 a weak engine for high horsepower and reliability. . and I'm takin the time to figure out the best, most reliable and durable engine,


If i put the AFR heads, roller everything, and 331 stroker kit, Is nitrous an option for the track? can i have the intake ported, ar do I have to buy a nitrous ported intake? and when running nitrous, will the 4 barrel holley 600 found from factory work as a suitable carb or Is a carb am important choice when trying to run nitrous?

Ok, you say you want power AND reliability? So that there rules out Nitrous (in my opinion) Don't settle for a flat tappet block as a foundation. There are thousands of roller 302 blocks out there to choose from. If you haven't found one, you haven't looked. Don't know where you're at, but I've got two extras. My 331 has Canfield heads (same as the AFR165's), a Ford Racing Z303 cam, 1.7 rockers and has PLENTY of power. I built it 5 years ago. Still going strong. Been in two vehicles now, my 89 Ranger for a year or more and now in my 77 Comet. Ditch the stock 4 bbl Holley, I'll bet it's the 4180 hybrid Ford used (it's a Holley/Autolite combination, not suitable for performance)
 
Ok, you say you want power AND reliability? So that there rules out Nitrous (in my opinion) Don't settle for a flat tappet block as a foundation. There are thousands of roller 302 blocks out there to choose from. If you haven't found one, you haven't looked. Don't know where you're at, but I've got two extras. My 331 has Canfield heads (same as the AFR165's), a Ford Racing Z303 cam, 1.7 rockers and has PLENTY of power. I built it 5 years ago. Still going strong. Been in two vehicles now, my 89 Ranger for a year or more and now in my 77 Comet. Ditch the stock 4 bbl Holley, I'll bet it's the 4180 hybrid Ford used (it's a Holley/Autolite combination, not suitable for performance)
Im still really undecided. if i can find a roller block ill go with that, but until i find one im planning for a non roller because i know i can get that.(for sure)
 
Ok, you say you want power AND reliability? So that there rules out Nitrous (in my opinion) Don't settle for a flat tappet block as a foundation. There are thousands of roller 302 blocks out there to choose from. If you haven't found one, you haven't looked. Don't know where you're at, but I've got two extras.
is power and reliability too much to ask for? my dad said dont waste time with nitrous, you dont need it. then i can run aliminum pistons. and as far a roller 302's wtf are you talkin about??? i have looked through 3 j/y and the entire totalled vehicles yard 3 times, all i see is trucks and 4 banger stangs, and a billion 4 litres. a couple 4.6 t birds but i dont wanna go that route
 
Looking for parts and motors, I always have had good luck with
www.car-part.com Could always just start with a fresh short block instead of looking for one of unknow quality and then have to rebuild it. Lots of good ones out there.
Dave
 
is power and reliability too much to ask for? my dad said dont waste time with nitrous, you dont need it. then i can run aliminum pistons. and as far a roller 302's wtf are you talkin about??? i have looked through 3 j/y and the entire totalled vehicles yard 3 times, all i see is trucks and 4 banger stangs, and a billion 4 litres. a couple 4.6 t birds but i dont wanna go that route

You don't NEED nitrous to "go fast". PERIOD. You also don't NEED forged pistons to go fast either. PERIOD. You CAN have power AND reliability wihout Nitrous.. Anyone who tells you different doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. PERIOD................................................................................................Roller 302's weren't only found in 85-95 Mustangs. Any 87-91 Crown Vic, Lincoln Town Car,, Merc Marquis, 87-93 T-Bird, Cougar or Mark VII, 92-97 pickup or van with a 5.0 had a roller block and roller cam. Plus a few others I probably forgot. If you cannot find one, YOU HAVEN'T LOOKED. Be patient and LISTEN TO YOUR DAD. He sounds to me like he knows his sheite.
 
You don't NEED nitrous to "go fast". PERIOD. You also don't NEED forged pistons to go fast either. PERIOD. You CAN have power AND reliability wihout Nitrous.. Anyone who tells you different doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. PERIOD................................................................................................Roller 302's weren't only found in 85-95 Mustangs. Any 87-91 Crown Vic, Lincoln Town Car,, Merc Marquis, 87-93 T-Bird, Cougar or Mark VII, 92-97 pickup or van with a 5.0 had a roller block and roller cam. Plus a few others I probably forgot. If you cannot find one, YOU HAVEN'T LOOKED. Be patient and LISTEN TO YOUR DAD. He sounds to me like he knows his sheite.

Ya my dads certainly not new to cars. He doesn't seem to think a roller 302 is an all that atractive option, except or HIGH horsepower cars. He said a healthy non roller 302 with a little time and money can easily make 450 horse and have no problems being reliable. Now all the TRS members I've asked have said a roller Is a better way to go and I like to beleive them as they have been right time and time again. NOW, from what i've read theres been some contraversy on which cars have a roller block and cam. Assuming your stats are right and the previously mentioned cars are indeed equiped with roller 5.0's finding one may be fairly simple. does this mean all of the previously mentioned vehicles HAVE them or CAN have them? Its important i dont go buying a block thinking its a roller and its not. If i cant figure out what is or is not a roller i'll just look for the best deal i can find and stick with that. (low miles, best equipped for what i need most likely a whole car so i get a tranny and maybe a rearend as well)


*note: can i run AFR 165cc heads without a roller cam and block?
 
What's wrong with forged pistons and nitrous? and why can't they be reliable and fast?
I'm not one for nitrous, but NOS doesn't mean it's gonna blow every 50k miles.
and speed parts costs are down so much now, if you don't build one right your wasting your time.

If you just mellow out and take your time, you'll come across an engine... no big deal, and if you build the bottom end up right... as you get money and come across deals the top-end will come too.


btw- why you so hell bent on a 302? 351's came out in a lot of trucks and cars and can be had on the cheap... my two F-250 351 HO's had tons of power and one went 225k the other is still on the road somewhere.
 
What's wrong with forged pistons and nitrous? and why can't they be reliable and fast?
I'm not one for nitrous, but NOS doesn't mean it's gonna blow every 50k miles.
and speed parts costs are down so much now, if you don't build one right your wasting your time.

If you just mellow out and take your time, you'll come across an engine... no big deal, and if you build the bottom end up right... as you get money and come across deals the top-end will come too.


btw- why you so hell bent on a 302? 351's came out in a lot of trucks and cars and can be had on the cheap... my two F-250 351 HO's had tons of power and one went 225k the other is still on the road somewhere.

One of the biggest downsides of buying a 351 for a swap is headers are virtually nill and mostly just cause i want a 302 and if you have a problem with that, well, SUCKS TO BE YOU
 
Don't be a smartass, I don't care if you shove a mopar down your trucks throat.

You know, I was being genuine, and was researching your 302, because all I knew b4 was 351 experiences, and building sbc's up and diesels.
I wasn't attacking you. W/E good luck on your build man.
and you can get headers for a 351.
 
Don't be a smartass, I don't care if you shove a mopar down your trucks throat.

You know, I was being genuine, and was researching your 302, because all I knew b4 was 351 experiences, and building sbc's up and diesels.
I wasn't attacking you. W/E good luck on your build man.
and you can get headers for a 351.
Dude chill. your opinion is yours and i cant change that, but respect that mine is mine and if i wanna 302 dont waste your time trying to tell me how a 351 is better blah blah blah. I've gone through this before. and the prob w/ the headers is they dont clear the steering box. you have to jmmy rig em'. thanks fer ya thoughts but im not interested. if you have any advice on what i should do to fortify my 302 so i have a truck that can work haul and burn rubber all day long, feel free to share. Thanks BUDD:icon_thumby:

Also, nitrous was tossed thanks too dad saying thats silly, dont bother with that junk. And I'd rather listen to him and have his help then try and do things my way all the time and have him get sick of compensating for my wants. We talked about it
 
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Ya my dads certainly not new to cars. He doesn't seem to think a roller 302 is an all that atractive option, except or HIGH horsepower cars. He said a healthy non roller 302 with a little time and money can easily make 450 horse and have no problems being reliable. Now all the TRS members I've asked have said a roller Is a better way to go and I like to beleive them as they have been right time and time again. NOW, from what i've read theres been some contraversy on which cars have a roller block and cam. Assuming your stats are right and the previously mentioned cars are indeed equiped with roller 5.0's finding one may be fairly simple. does this mean all of the previously mentioned vehicles HAVE them or CAN have them? Its important i dont go buying a block thinking its a roller and its not. If i cant figure out what is or is not a roller i'll just look for the best deal i can find and stick with that. (low miles, best equipped for what i need most likely a whole car so i get a tranny and maybe a rearend as well)
*note: can i run AFR 165cc heads without a roller cam and block?
All of the vehicles I listed had roller cams from the factory. Even the 86-91 pickups and vans had roller blocks, but had flat tappet cams in em. It's really simple to check for a roller block, look for the casting numbers near the starter. Here's three numbers I've seen: E6SE, E7TE, F1SE, there maybe more I don't recall offhand. Another easy way to check is pull one pushrod. Roller 302's pushrods are 6.25" long. There's no reason NOT to start with a roller block nowadays. You get a longer cam life, smoother idle with the same cam specs, more duration @.050 with the same advertised specs vs a flat tappet cam. And they don't wipe lobes at startup like flat's have done for the past ten years. They also rev faster. There are more positives than negatives in going with a roller block & cam.
 
All of the vehicles I listed had roller cams from the factory. Even the 86-91 pickups and vans had roller blocks, but had flat tappet cams in em. It's really simple to check for a roller block, look for the casting numbers near the starter. Here's three numbers I've seen: E6SE, E7TE, F1SE, there maybe more I don't recall offhand. Another easy way to check is pull one pushrod. Roller 302's pushrods are 6.25" long. There's no reason NOT to start with a roller block nowadays. You get a longer cam life, smoother idle with the same cam specs, more duration @.050 with the same advertised specs vs a flat tappet cam. And they don't wipe lobes at startup like flat's have done for the past ten years. They also rev faster. There are more positives than negatives in going with a roller block & cam.
so what your saying is that some blocks came compatible with roller cams but did not come with one? OH!!!! no wonder i was confused!
so they have the guides for the roller cam but are equipped with flat tappets? does this mean i dont need a special kit, just lifters?
 
You really have to see a flat tappet camshaft after a lot of use to really appreciate a roller cam. Get a factory roller motor IMO. Unless you already have the non-roller 302, I can't think of any reason to not get one.

Pete
 
so what your saying is that some blocks came compatible with roller cams but did not come with one? OH!!!! no wonder i was confused!
so they have the guides for the roller cam but are equipped with flat tappets? does this mean i dont need a special kit, just lifters?

Yea, the 86-91 pickups and vans had roller blocks with flat tappet cams. BUT............................ not all can be converted to roller with the factory stuff. I have one that's like that. The two bosses in the lifter valley for the lifter retainer spyder hold down bolts are "half cast" They're there, but not cast large enough to drill and tap the holes for the bolts. I have another that's got the bosses and they're drilled and tapped for the bolts. Both are from pickups, one's an 88, the other an 89 block. The difference in the block for the roller cams are the lifter bores are taller and there's two bosses in the center of the lifter valley for the retainer bolts. The first roller block was the 85 model, only it's not as good as the 86-up blocks. Ford added 6 more pounds of iron in the 86-up blocks to stiffen the piston bores and decks
 
Yea, the 86-91 pickups and vans had roller blocks with flat tappet cams. BUT............................ not all can be converted to roller with the factory stuff. I have one that's like that. The two bosses in the lifter valley for the lifter retainer spyder hold down bolts are "half cast" They're there, but not cast large enough to drill and tap the holes for the bolts. I have another that's got the bosses and they're drilled and tapped for the bolts. Both are from pickups, one's an 88, the other an 89 block. The difference in the block for the roller cams are the lifter bores are taller and there's two bosses in the center of the lifter valley for the retainer bolts. The first roller block was the 85 model, only it's not as good as the 86-up blocks. Ford added 6 more pounds of iron in the 86-up blocks to stiffen the piston bores and decks

see there was a lot of confusion here on my part. I was under the influence a roller cam block was one that was compatible with roller lifters. now, roller lifters are what i was after but I asked my dad what i should use and he said dont bother, bacause i can get self adjusting hydrolic lifters and run the 0 lash with valve relief pistons and get tremendos compression, as much as 11:1 or more, and with the right cam and timing make upwards of 500 horses. he said to build a 500 horse 302 that doesn't fall apart every time you floor it will caost me anywhere from 2 and a half to 3 grand.he said after about 300 horse, all your doin is makin you rubber strip you lay longer, as the lightness of my truck will never let that power hit the pavement.i cant aford 3 grand, but if i take my time and build it in steps i think i can make one hell of a truck!
New question. If i where to buy a Bronco 2 4x4, could I cut the frame of my truck and the new one, box the section of the cut and reweld it to my frame? wouldn't this be the easiest 4x4 swap possible? to me it just looks like simple stuff! maybe theres something im missin!
 

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