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Whats the voltage for the fuel pump and sender


merace19

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
199
Transmission
Automatic
2006 ranger 2.3 I have checked the harness going to the pump wires are as follows.
red 7 volts
black ground
yellow 12 volts
black with white stripe ground.
I ask this because I am having a no fuel level in cab at the gauge. And a trouble code that says fuel level circuit high. I can not get the gauge to respond at all. I have grounded out all the pins in the connector with a 100 ohm test lead and nothing...
 
Not sure on voltage, but a quick check for the gauge is to pull the wiring harness at the tank, turn the key on, the gauge should go past full. If it doesn't, bad gauge- if it does, I'd suspect the sending unit or the float sunk, which the latter is very unlikely for an '06
 
I have pulled that harness and the gauge stays flat.
Why would you say it will go to full.
 
Most analog gauges are resistance detecting gauges.
If sender wire is unhooked, infinite resistance, then gauge will either go full up or full down.
If sender wire is grounded, 0 resistance, then gauge will do the opposite.

There can be two fuses for fuel systems, have you checked the interior fuse panel for a fuel gauge fuse?

On the Fords I have worked on the Blk/wht wire was the sender ground, and the Yellow/wht was the sender signal.
If you ground the yellow/wht the gauge should go to full
If it doesn't then I would assume a gauge problem or wiring problem, if it does then a sending unit problem.

Fords did use an anti-slosh circuit that has been known to cause problems, this prevents the gauge from jumping around while driving, i.e. cornering and up and down hills.
 
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It is a resistance detector but high resistance is empty tank. Pin 7, yellow and white at the back of the cluster (I think it is the LH connector) should show no more than 164 ohms to ground with the fuel pump plugged in. Check that and we can go from there.

EDIT: confirmed it is the LH connector on the back of the IC.
 
I used a 100 ohm lead to fool the gauge into something. Well if that reads empty at high ohms then I did nothing to show movement. I did take and jumper the yellow with the black and got nothing at the gauge also.
I dont have the right fuse panel for under the hood so I dont know which fuse goes where. I have verified all in cab fuses are good.
I assumed since I am getting voltage at the tank everything is good but either th gauge or sender.
 
In 2000, the level sender reads 22 ohms at Empty and 145 ohms for Full.

So, short the YE/Wh wire to ground (or to the BK/OG wire at the tank connector), and it should read zero. Be advised that it takes "some time" for the gage to respond if you do this with the key on. That will give you an idea that the slosh module is working. It sounds as if your gage is bad because it can't be disconnected if you have power.

I would recommend doing the shorting first, then turn the key and watch the gage drop to empty, turning the key Off as it gets into the red. Remove the short, turn the key back on and watch the opposite response toward Full.

If the other gages are reading properly, (oil pressure, voltmeter, tach, coolant temp) then you can be sure that the fuel gage portion of the instrument cluster is getting power. They all use the same fuse. Look elsewhere for your fuel gage wiring problem.

Have you been inside that large square connector under the driver seat yet?

2000 also shows that the YE/WH wire goes all the way to the cluster and is spliced off to the PCM, pin 12 (wire color remains YE/WH the entire length). Since you don't seem to having luck at the tank connector, your next connection is the one under the driver seat. Yep the BK/WH wire to G101 goes through this connector too!

The ground for the sender is on the left top of the radiator support (G101) when using the Instrument Panel schematic.
CONFLICT:
The ground for the level sender is shown as G201 in the engine controls schematic. That ground is under the PS kick panel, outboard. Things may be way different for newer than 2000. It sounds like a no ground for the gage issue based on what you have done so far.
 
mine is a 2006 and there is no wires under the seat other than the seat belt deal.

I have shorted that yellow wire every way it can be shorted and with 100 ohm resister in line. Nothing.
I am so anal about this too. I would rather break that damn fuel light and check engine light than see it on.
I did check the engine code light and it was high fuel level circuit
 
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I may break down and buy a FSM off Ebay,. I read those things like novels.
 
Don't forget about the anti-slosh/adaptive fueling strategy. If you are doing your shorting and resistors with the key on it may take up to 15 minutes to show on the gauge.

You have to turn the key off, make your resistance change, and then turn it back on.
 
Yeah I only did stuff with the key out, then turned key and let set for at least a minute to see if I would get any results.

Think the fuel pump is going out. So I can kill 2 birds with one gas bomb. I have a stalling issue now.
 

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