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What type of oil do you use?


I use whatever is cheap. Mostly buy it at Rural King since for two of my vehicles I buy it in gallon jugs. I've never worn out a motor before, and we put 300,000 on our first car. I changed the oil every 6 months in it whether it needed it or not.

Engines don't need that good of lubrication. It's a whole industry created by seeding people's fears. VW engines didn't have filters at all--just a screen adequate to prevent parts the size of pistons from clogging up the oil pump. Those died at 100,000 miles like clockwork and it was air cooled even. Sure, synthetic is better. But is it needed? Hell no. The cars in the junkyard aren't there because the engine wore out. In most cases they were neglected and something failed. Or they were wrecked. Regular oil changes--when the service shedule says to do it--and driving it smoothly will allow anything to last 300,000--long past where it's resale value means anything.

Edit: and there's nothing wrong with Fram. Been screwing on those orange guys since I was a small boy. They catch more than enough garbage out of the oil. I'm using Super Tech now, but once in a while I screw on a Fram for old times sake.
 
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Motorcraft oil filter since I had a Fram filter go bad and puke oil all over the road one day and whatever oil is on sale.
 
Well I always used Motorcraft filters and Castrol oil every 3 to 5k and never had any problems. I feel the oil and filter brand realy wont matter much as long as you change it regularly. I had a girl friend ask me to change her oil one time, I ask when it was last changed she said she didnt know. When I pulled the filter it had the date changed in sharpy that was from 3 years before, she owned it for a year.:annoyed:
 
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My brother called me a few years ago and said "When I start it in the morning the oil light stays on and then there's a BANG and the light goes out."

I cut the filter in half and it was solid with black wax. The next filter clogged almost immediately and by the third oil change it was getting back to good. The rust on the dipstick wasn't encouraging either. And to think that truck is still running. He gave it to some guy when he bought a new '05 Mazda 3 and the guy is still putting around in it.
 
Engines don't need that good of lubrication. It's a whole industry created by seeding people's fears.
+1

VW engines didn't have filters at all--just a screen adequate to prevent parts the size of pistons from clogging up the oil pump.
Given the amount of shavings in the old iron blocks, I think this is stupid. I do think this is the way air filters work, thats just me though.

Sure, synthetic is better. But is it needed? Hell no. The cars in the junkyard aren't there because the engine wore out. In most cases they were neglected and something failed. Or they were wrecked. Regular oil changes--when the service shedule says to do it--and driving it smoothly will allow anything to last 300,000--long past where it's resale value means anything.
This is the type of opinion I was looking for when I started this thread.
 
I'm an oil geek, I spend time on www.BobIsTheOilGuy.com and get my used oil analyzed by a lab, but even I'll tell you that how often you change the oil is a lot more important than what oil you use.

A word on Frams. I've used them in the past too and never had a problem. They won't necessarily junk your motor but the simple fact is that you can buy a much better filter for the same money (Motorcraft) or less (SuperTech).
 
VW engines didn't have filters at all--just a screen adequate to prevent parts the size of pistons from clogging up the oil pump. Those died at 100,000 miles like clockwork and it was air cooled even.


i use dino 5w30 valvoline or castrol and a motorcraft filter in the ranger.
seems to work well.

when i had my '73 bug, it had the screen you mention.. most of the time it had a lot of crap in it when i changed the oil, lol.
changed all 3 quarts every 2500-300 mi ... even used straight 30W in the summer! anyway at 130k miles the body died.. (split in two!) the roof imploded like a turtle's back :bawling:.. BUT the engine was fine.. could have gone another 100k easy..:icon_thumby:
 
Royal Purple Synthetic in everything, but now that im unemployed..i can't afford it.

when i'm feeling cheap the diffs get Canadian tire brand (motormaster) synthetic 80w90 gear oil and the motor gets quaker state 10w40 high mileage or 4x4. I usually just buy a fram oil filter with the grippy stuff on the bottom. i'm not particular. Up here its anywhere between 85-110 bucks for a complete oil change on my ranger...yes we pump the oil out of the ground in vast quantities and the price of gas is grossly overvalue and so is a quart of oil (at around 8 bucks a quart for good Mobil 1)

As for the tranny and tcase its mostly just mercon ATF in both. doesn't matter what brand.


I'm dreading the day the warranty is up on my diesel...apparently its like 15 litres of oil for the motor...a far cry from the 4.5L i put in my ranger..UGH 200 dollar oil change :(
 
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Up here its anywhere between 85-110 bucks for a complete oil change on my ranger

I'm dreading the day the warranty is up on my diesel...apparently its like 15 litres of oil for the motor...a far cry from the 4.5L i put in my ranger..UGH 200 dollar oil change :(

Wow....Its 49.95 for a complete service with multi point inspection, top up of all fluids, 5L or oil and motorcraft filter at the dealership I'm working at. For 10bucks more you get a tire rotation and brake inspection.

For 99.95 you get a deisel service with multipoint inspection, top up of all fluids, 14L of 10w30 deisel oil and Motorcraft filter.

Those prices you posted are outrageous.
 

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