What to do before starting motor?

[jeepxj2007]

I just recently bought a 1995 Ford 3.0 V-6 out of a rolled ranger. It was stored inside in a barn for a long time. The guy said that it sat for a while he thought either 8 or 10 years...the engine is real clean with 45,000 miles, it still had oil in it...I grabbed the clutch and rotated the engine and it rotated smoothly, no noises, no seizing. I pulled the plugs they all seemed good, I didn't see any rust on them or anything, inside the exhaust outlets do not have any rust either...what should I do before firing this engine up, everyone keeps saying my engine is going to be toast because the rings will be rusty.....but I think otherwise....so any advice?

 

[truckmanson]

just cause you didn't mention it, change the oil, filter and plugs, sorry that is all I got, I am not the most mechanically inclined but am learning when and what I can

 

[jeepxj2007]

yeah I was planning that, sorry I should of mentioned that, it is getting pretty much a ton of new stuff, gaskets, pulley stuff, my buddy just wanted me to strip it completely down to nothing and rebuild it and if I was going to do that I would just fix the engine I have now, I really don't see how the rings could be toast just sitting there because oil gets into the pores of metal and this thing didn't see any rain or anything

 

[truckmanson]

should be good, just do a complete once over, but hopefully some others will give there input, I know I have seen motors that have sat outside and inside for 15 to 20 years that have just been started, never saw how they ended up in the long run though.

 

[jeepxj2007]

I was just curious and went out and popped off a valve cover....wow everything was clean...it literally looked like the parts were brand new under it. I pulled out a few of the plugs to look in it with a flashlight. I could of sworn I seen carbon crap in one of the cylinders...but who knows...I think I am going to get the gasket kit and if I do I will pull the heads off and clean it out

 

[Mark_88]

Good find!

Most engines you buy from a junkyard have been sitting idle for many years...as long as the plugs are left in and the head(s) and intake/exhaust manifolds are left on there should be no contamination of the internals...

The short block I bought came out of an 87 Ranger that had only 147,000 km (about 90k miles) on the clock...when I pulled the head the pistons were solid...no play back and forth...and I cranked it manually a few times and could see the piston walls were smooth and clean...

If the truck was kept inside all these years and everything was left on it I would say changing the oil, running it for about 100 miles and then changing the oil and filter again, it should be like a new engine...

 

[superdave1984]

As long as the plugs were in and all openings plugged or covered, you should be fine with an oil change. You might go ahead and pull the pan however and change the rear main seal since they get brittle over time. While in there, go ahead and put in a new oil pump. It's cheap insurance. As for the rings, pull all the plugs and spray the inside with WD-40 heavily and let it sit overnight. It might smoke a little, but if it's in as good shape as you say, I think it will be just fine. You also might want to run some sea foam through the fuel system when you get it running to clean it out from any gunk from old dried gas.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

just change the oil and start it up. if the rings are sticky, you wont know until you start it. if they are it'll burn oil...but chances are theyll free themselves up with a little run time.

the engine has 45,000 miles on it...theres no sense in rebuilding it. i would replace all the rubber (oil pan, and valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, o-rings, etc) just to prevent leaks once fluids start to circulate. but i wouldnt waste my time pulling the heads off, thats further than you really need to go.

 

[snake]

If it were me I'd try to get some oil pressure into the engine before firing it off. In the old days we'd use a drill and go thru the distributer hole (chebby) on the newer ones I just disconect the fuel or spark and crank it around until I see oil pressure on the guage. The starter cranks the engine a lot slower than the engine cranking and running at 1800 RPM without immediate oil pressure -and its a bit easier on the engine in my opinion.

 

[Shoeboy]

If it were me I'd try to get some oil pressure into the engine before firing it off. In the old days we'd use a drill and go thru the distributer hole (chebby) on the newer ones I just disconect the fuel or spark and crank it around until I see oil pressure on the guage. The starter cranks the engine a lot slower than the engine cranking and running at 1800 RPM without immediate oil pressure -and its a bit easier on the engine in my opinion.

To add to that, if you do not have an oil pressure gauge, or if you have one that is not accurate, pull the valve covers, and continue to crank the engine over (with fuel/spark disabled), until you see a continuous stream of oil flowing with no air bubbles.

Since it is out of the truck, and easy to work on, I would be changing everything easy on it (rear main seal, oil pan gasket, belts, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets with NEW head bolts if you do happen to pull the heads to clean the carbon out, or if there is signs of leaking, and any other thing that comes to mind). Remember when its out of the truck, everything is twice as easy as when its in the truck.

 

[MrE_Powers]

To add to that, if you do not have an oil pressure gauge, or if you have one that is not accurate, pull the valve covers, and continue to crank the engine over (with fuel/spark disabled), until you see a continuous stream of oil flowing with no air bubbles.

Since it is out of the truck, and easy to work on, I would be changing everything easy on it (rear main seal, oil pan gasket, belts, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets with NEW head bolts if you do happen to pull the heads to clean the carbon out, or if there is signs of leaking, and any other thing that comes to mind). Remember when its out of the truck, everything is twice as easy as when its in the truck.

+1

may want to consider the water pump and timing belt gasket if you are pulling engine also.

 

[0ne-cam]

all of the above is good suggestions but everybody is forgeting the most important, do a leakdown compression test (im not sure what the psi is supose to be im guessing above 150 on dry and around 180 wet) if you got some oil drop about half a cap into each cylinder before starting the engine. when you start it its like a new motor you need to brake it in couple of hundred miles because its been sitting.

 

[shadetree]

Damn, can't believe all this. If it was a running engine with 45k miles, it is still brand new. Put oil and water in the damn thing, and run it. An engine does not go bad sitting.shady

 

[MrE_Powers]

Damn, can't believe all this. If it was a running engine with 45k miles, it is still brand new. Put oil and water in the damn thing, and run it. An engine does not go bad sitting.shady

the metal is still good but the rubber and cork gets brittle without oil splashing it over the years. if the engine is out of the donor truck you might as well change all of the seals and gaskets now while it is easy instead of 6 months from now, when they fail.

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

Compression test. Make sure they're even across the board.

Basic tune up shit. Change the oil.

Then sell it to me

Rob