what the tick!?!

[rfl]

Dropped in a remanufactured 4.0 (directly from Ford) in a '93 Ranger. Primed the oil, fires up without hesitation (after priming fuel). Oil pressure is what I would consider excellent at all times.

Engine has a loud tick. Best I can tell it is the valve train - using the pipe method, the noise is consistent on both sides of the intake and front to back. Noise is consistent regardless of temp, and follows the RPM's.

Given this is a Ford motor and you cannot adjust the valves, I am thinking it is the oil viscosity - I put in Royal Purple break-in oil. Before I drop the oil or worse yes, start digging into the top of the engine, I am looking for some serious guidance.

FWIW, I am not proficient in Ford's by any means, however I have rebuilt engines and raced those same back when fuel injection was spraying ether in a carb, and wrench on high-end motorcycle engines regularly - point being, I do not believe I did anything wrong. This just has me stumped.

Also, nearly everything under the hood is new. Injectors are refurbished BW's.

 

[RonD]

Could it be an exhaust leak?

They can sound like a tick and since it is not a metal to metal tick you couldn't localize it with "the pipe", I use "the stick", lol

Sometimes you can disable one spark plug at a time and if it is an exhaust leak(or heaven forbid a rod knock) the sound volume of the tick will drop when that cylinder is no longer firing, valve train tick wouldn't change

If not then best bet would be to remove valve covers and check each push rod for end play

 

[Andy D]

I would rig up a mechanical oil pressure gauge even if you tape it to the windshield. How complete an engine did you get? Did you see the rockers? How much of your old stuff did you have to put on the new engine? I would drain the oil into a clean container and change the filter. Maybe the anti drain back valve got stuck in the filter. It can happen to just about any filter. Check the drained oil for shiny bits. There is a certain amount of valve train noise coming from the Rat's 4.0 at 130 ?K miles. It is my first Ford in 30 yrs. So I'm not up on specifics. However, the EFI on the 4.0 is pretty similar in operation and parts to my 1988 BMWs. Are you sure, you are hearing valve train or fuel injectors clicking, or a leaky exhaust?


It could be a push rod or rocker trouble , but a factory rebuilt should have new stuff, I would imagine. A botched timing chain replacement. Are there timing marks you can check with a light? A bad cam? But if I was doing the job and got troubles , I would go over what I did. I have been hacking on cars for 50 yrs, I am perfectly capable of screwing up.

 

[Mark_88]

If this is still breaking in and you have break-in oil I would just run it till you hit the oil change time...usually 100 miles...and then put regular oil in (drop the old oil first, eh!)...

Then if the tick persists...run it till the next prescribed oil change...I think it's around 3,000 miles...but you should have some guidelines for that...either your own preferences or whatever the specs say.

Then change it again and run it for another 5,000 miles or whatever...if still ticking...that's when I would be concerned...

Unless, of course, it is an exhaust leak...then the above still applies but you will need to redo the manifold bolts for equal torque.

 

[rfl]

Could it be an exhaust leak?

They can sound like a tick and since it is not a metal to metal tick you couldn't localize it with "the pipe", I use "the stick", lol

Sometimes you can disable one spark plug at a time and if it is an exhaust leak(or heaven forbid a rod knock) the sound volume of the tick will drop when that cylinder is no longer firing, valve train tick wouldn't change

If not then best bet would be to remove valve covers and check each push rod for end play

Change to conventional oil, no change. Pulled one wire at a time, no change. Man, I really do not want to open this thing up.

 

[rfl]

If this is still breaking in and you have break-in oil I would just run it till you hit the oil change time...usually 100 miles...and then put regular oil in (drop the old oil first, eh!)...

Then if the tick persists...run it till the next prescribed oil change...I think it's around 3,000 miles...but you should have some guidelines for that...either your own preferences or whatever the specs say.

Then change it again and run it for another 5,000 miles or whatever...if still ticking...that's when I would be concerned...

Unless, of course, it is an exhaust leak...then the above still applies but you will need to redo the manifold bolts for equal torque.

I went ahead and dropped the oil, then let it run for about 10 minutes. I am not positive that it is on the right side, also positive that it is not an exhaust leak. It is now a tap more than a tick.

Do these lifters have a history of taking a while to pump up?

 

[Mark_88]

Not sure about the 4.0, but my 2.3 ticks once in a while and doesn't hurt performance...but my engine is well beyond break-in time and I've taken it to mean I am low on oil...and I usually toss in something like Lucas oil or other and it shuts up.

New engines sometimes just need a bit of time...but if they are built properly and oiled there is no reason for them to tick beyond the initial break-in period.

Have you actually driven the truck with the new engine or just running it? I'd load it up and drive it if you haven't done so already...then see if the tick goes away.

 

[rfl]

Not sure about the 4.0, but my 2.3 ticks once in a while and doesn't hurt performance...but my engine is well beyond break-in time and I've taken it to mean I am low on oil...and I usually toss in something like Lucas oil or other and it shuts up.

New engines sometimes just need a bit of time...but if they are built properly and oiled there is no reason for them to tick beyond the initial break-in period.

Have you actually driven the truck with the new engine or just running it? I'd load it up and drive it if you haven't done so already...then see if the tick goes away.

Only driven it down around the block; kept it under 2200 RPM's. It is loud enough that I am a bit hesitant to just drive it.

It is definitely a single valve, just not sure if it is the rocker or lifter.

 

[Mark_88]

Try taking it up a bit higher...I think it would be fine to run it up as long as you don't red line and board shift it...

I remember something about keeping the RPMs low but not forever...there are a few different methods that I've heard of but I think you need to run it up a bit higher regardless.

It isn't going to break unless you don't have enough oil...

Someone else will chime in with their experience...maybe someone more familiar with the 4.0...I just did a Google search on this and here is the link...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Break-in_(mechanical_run-in)

This is not hard and fast rules...and the tick will/should go away shortly...once all the parts have time to wear into each other a bit...but it really depends on the source...and I'd like to believe that the engine was assembled and spec'd properly so there is no initial slop...but...that's why I'd recommend taking it up a bit higher...just a gradual increase...hold speed a bit...lower...higher...nothing prolonged or sudden...

 

[rfl]

I am still open for other thoughts. Absent any other ideas I will drop some dex VI in the oil tomorrow and see if the lifter frees up. If that does not work I will pull the valve cover and see what the pushrods are doing.

I hope this does not turn into a call to Ford Monday.

 

[AllanD]

It's more likely a "Rocker/Pushrod" issue than lifter on a 4.0, but verifying which it is can be a PITA.

Personally If an engine has been sitting for more than a few weeks
(or on my case months/years) before I have a truck impeding my
working on the engine I will take the time to pull the valve covers
and Rocker-shafts and put a dab of cam break-in lube into all the pushrod sockets on the rocker arms.

Sounds like an annoying thing to do on a new engine but pulling the VC's before it's
in the engine bay and the VC's are buried under an alternator, A/C Compressor and wiring harness...

 

[rfl]

The assembly plate says the reman date is 09/13, so it was sitting. Ford does not sell a true complete (although they list it as such) for '93. All covers, intake, and the pan are from the old engine. I have not charged the A/C yet as it is all new.

Under normal circumstance, if it is the rocker(s), should I replace them if indeed the noise is from them or just hit them with assembly lube and re-torque the rocker assembly?

 

[rfl]

confirmation

#1 intake lifter is stuck. Push rod is just bouncing. Gap (not at TDC) is 4.6mm/

 

[rfl]

retracted - now TOTALY STUMPED

So the lifter will move simply by putting a low power magnet on it. I can bounce it up and down with very smooth action. The push rod is the correct size. Valve is not collapsed - it actually sits slightly higher than the others in the head. Rocker arm looks fine.

What the heck it the problem? I can't see a factory cam being that flat.

 

[RonD]

Can you compress the lifter, or is it collapsed.

Looks like it might be time to pull the lower intake.

Intake valve sitting higher is not normal either, valve could be "tuliped"