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What lift would you rather?


stevenf

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Jun 11, 2008
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Building up my Bronco and was curious how many people would want 4" lift with lots of fender trimmer, or 6-8" of lift with little to no trimming. Im talking about a clean trim, not some hacked away job that makes your ride look like crap.
In other words, Which do you think makes the ride more offroad capable?
 
2-4 in, major trim, 35-38 in tires.


lift with say autofab/camburg setups or home built....works best
 
I was planning on 4" coils for the front and homemade for the rear lift. I was originally thinking 6"lift on 33's but now I am considering 35's and and not so much lift.
Why would you choose that?
 
To much lift has a tendency to make it top heavy. Are you talking a full sized Bronco or a BII. The BII is very narrow and you don't want to high of a C.G. If it's a full size you can get away with a little more because it's wider than the BII and Rangers.
 
<-------- That happens when it's too tall. It's shorter and wider now.
 
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Dont I want enough ground clearance though?
Its a BII.
 
Ground clearance is a function of tire size not lift. Suspension lift gives you travel. Body lift gives you tire clearance.

BII's are narrow. I'd say 4" and shave the fenders. 35's are a good size tire. What engine do you have?

Is this for off road or DD?
 
I have 6" coils (they are soft so only about 4.5-5 on my Supercab) and will be putting in a 1" spacer and nibbling the bottom corners of my fenders to run 33s, maybe 32s. It's mainly a driver and occasionally wheeled, so I prefer the full fender look.

I also have the (slightly wider than stock) D35 and 8.8 though.
 
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4inch, trim up the fenders.......b2 is short, and will get top heavy fast. 8 inch would be just scary/useless street queen.Unless you made the track wider.$$$$$$$

you can trim up the fenders and make them look nice and tub the rear to stuff tires.Id suggest extened radius arms.Or the arc of the shortys will pull the tire in to the firewall.

here is my truck with a autofab kit....6inch middle of the road, really sits at about 5inchs...also have aftermarket shock mounts and coil buckets.The stock shock mounts wont allow for this much bump travel.

33,s on 15x7's 3.75 back space.

06-22-08_2006.jpg


06-22-08_2007.jpg


06-22-08_2008.jpg

05-28-08_1911.jpg


heres one with the driver side at full droop, I was checking clearnces at the time, but that how long the spring is where the driver side beam is sitting
05-30-08_1429.jpg
 
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My plans are the 8.8 and D35 swap. I was going to put 4" coils up front and homemade lift in rear. Run 35's with fender trimming. When money allows, I would go extended radius arms and when stock tranny or engine goes out(very soon im sure) I will drop in a 302.
The axles I have are 3.73's. Do you think Ill be able to move efficiently with 35's?
I plan to join a local riding club and get into organized trail rides. I would like to be able to drive it on the road still. I have a limited slip in the rear and im going to spool the front.
 
Critters ride is perfect for me. My BII is that exact color so that gives me a good mental picture.
 
i think that rules out our trucks critter:black_eye: :thefinger:


seriously,trimmed all the way.no matter the height

hahaha....cmon now rick, you got to admit, are trucks have a classy look;missingteeth;.....even though my truck no longer has "mullet" tires:idiot:
 
I bet it looks better with the flares covering the cut edge.

I'm with the others, more capable means lower lift and fender cutting. You certainly won't be gettin' around well with 3.73s and 35s though, you'll want 5.13s for those (also, I wouldn't spool the front if you want to maintain your turning radius, get a locker of some sort for it).
 
My plans are the 8.8 and D35 swap. I was going to put 4" coils up front and homemade lift in rear. Run 35's with fender trimming. When money allows, I would go extended radius arms and when stock tranny or engine goes out(very soon im sure) I will drop in a 302.
The axles I have are 3.73's. Do you think Ill be able to move efficiently with 35's?
I plan to join a local riding club and get into organized trail rides. I would like to be able to drive it on the road still. I have a limited slip in the rear and im going to spool the front.

you cant just throw 4inch coil in, you need a lift of some kind to correct camber in the front.ethier a drop bracket kit, or cut and turned beams like I have.(cheap plug here"I have anouther pair of dana35 cut and turn beams sitting here on a shelf passenger side beams renforced etc")
and if you want to keep the stock stubby radius arm to let the wallet recover you will need some radius arm drop brackets as well to correct the caster. no caster= sterring on marbles.

3.73's and the 302 if your going to run a c-4 or c-6 wont be to bad with 33's
35's would be bettter off wiht 4;10's at the least if not 4.56's.

unless you purpose build a 302 to have gobs of torque right off idle to about 2400rpm tehn 3.73's and 35 could get along but you would want trun a good tranny cooler with a fan.....tranny cooler with a fan would not be a bad ideal anyway I would think on a trail truck.

for a trail truck, the chevy leafs seem to work good for people alot of flex and give 5inches iof lift I belive.


Im not a fan of posi's exept in street cars and daily driver type of trucks or a budget built desert truck(only cause jumping and skipping whoops puts alot of snap shock on little axle shafts and possibly getting stuck is alot better than a broken axle shaft in the middle of baja) that are nearly stock. Id suggest a locker over the posi in the rear for a trail truck.
If it wasnt for the 8.8 being a c-clip axle Id say spool it even.unless you drive on ice alot.then a spool may get a little scary..I dont know, I live in san diego....snow and ice dont happen much here.And when it dose I kinda seek out the ice to have a little whoo hooo fun..

the front I would not spool.the hubs on these trucks are a bit weak,like to explode the housings with just lockers.and a locker gives youa little slip vs a spool when trying to turn as well...
So Id locker it front and rear...or if your cheap weld the rear maybe.
 

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