What kind of oil do you run in your 4.0L?

[Jason]

What problems would the filter give you? I have never seen a failure that was easily tied to an oil filter. It is usually accelerated engine wear that ends up being blamed on poor build quality, not the filter. Even if it was the filters fault. Unless the filter case separated from the base and allowed all the oil to leak out in a matter of seconds how would you tie it directly to a filter?

 

[jasonl]

If you're bored here is a pretty good look at different oil filters. I see it has been updated sometime in 2008.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

One thing I found interesting is the "champ" or champion filters used to be recommended the last time i read this a few years ago (stp,super tech etc.) now they are manufactured different and no longer recommended. I noticed when buying and oil filter for my atv last spring the super techs had a plastic button inside of them that was different so I went back to Purolator. I also found out the particular filter my atv took could be had in the Advance Auto parts brand that was manufatcured by Purolator for half price.

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... I run MOBIL 1 conventional oil or VALVOLINE. For oil filters, I will ONLY run K&N on my race cars or my daily driver.

 

[Hahnsb2]

You run 80:1 in a dirt bike!?!?!?! I can't beleive they still run. lol. I've never heard of a 2-stroke in a bike calling for less than 40:1. And that's the race bikes. most trail bikes call for 32 or 36:1. That's pretty incredible.

Yep, our engines are rated for 100:1 with any oil and Amsoil 2-stroke is rated 100:1 with pretty much any engine, we run 80:1 "just because". We run it in the chain saw, leaf blower and weed eater too. I hate riding with any 2-strokes that are mixed 40:1, there's no reason for it these days with Amsoil.

What problems would the filter give you? I have never seen a failure that was easily tied to an oil filter. It is usually accelerated engine wear that ends up being blamed on poor build quality, not the filter. Even if it was the filters fault. Unless the filter case separated from the base and allowed all the oil to leak out in a matter of seconds how would you tie it directly to a filter?

They DO fail. Cummins will VOID your warranty if you run a Fram filter on their engines, they like to break apart and clog the piston oil nozzles=melted piston. I know Totalled had 3 Frams in a row blow up on his B2, he no longer uses them for obvious reasons. Anyone who buys a fram is paying for advertising, not quality.

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Wow, my 125cc and 250cc run 24:1. I run AMSOIL. Any leaner than that and I get cylinder damage.

 

[Hahnsb2]

HI!... Wow, my 125cc and 250cc run 24:1. I run AMSOIL. Any leaner than that and I get cylinder damage.

Damn that's rich, no offense but I'm glad I don't ride with you

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

Damn that's rich, no offense but I'm glad I don't ride with you

HI!... You wouldn't be riding with me long, trust me. I get virtually no smoke while riding. It's all in the tune.

 

[98 ranger xlt]

Never had a problem with fram i kinda like sure grip end so your wrench dont slip off.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Never had a problem with fram i kinda like sure grip end so your wrench dont slip off.

Check out the Purolator PureOne, it's got a nice textured coating. You shouldn't be using a wrench anyways.

 

[Guy]

The engine really has no say in the matter..... It could care less as long as its getting some lubrication (reminds me of a girl I once knew, but thats another story) I use wally world oil, usually 10-40. Use the same stuff in my Corolla, Metro, B4000, and F150.. all are over 200K and still running strong.

 

[cr_the_machinist]

4 quarts of valvoline synthetic blend and 1 quart of lucas.

 

[airborn_ranger]

I run MOBIL 1 conventional oil ...

Gotta get me some of that!

 

[JunkYardRanger]

before i blew up my good motor I ran 10 - 30 castrol syntec but with my junkyard motor I use what ever I can find the cheapest .. normally a 5-30 store brand ...

 

[north44]

First 4 or 5 oil changes I used conventional oil - no particular brand.

Tried semi-synthetic blend for a few changes after that.

Now using full synthetic usually - no particular brand - whatever is available, and/or on sale, but have gone back to conventional a couple of times. Sometimes add Lucas oil treatment (usually when I've gone "back" to conventional oil). Engine has never been "flushed" to this point.

Oil filter is a "no name" brand, carried by a bunch of auto parts stores/suppliers - but is made by Honeywell.

Oil and filter changed like clockwork, every 5,000 km/~3,000 miles - doesn't get too dirty with that mileage, and I don't mind performing the frequent changes (done myself) - still doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes, no leaks.

Vehicle approaching 300,000 km/~190,000 original miles and still going.

IMO, it's probably more important to change the oil and filter frequently and regularly - more so than the particular type/brand of oil used - they all seem to meet the minimum standards for any particular grade (API standards) - haven't noticed any appreciable performance "differences" using conventional vs. synthetic - though synthetic doesn't seem to "change" colour (get as "dark/dirty") as easily between changes.

 

[turbo cat]

supertech wallmart crap 10w30