What is that?

[FFChuck]

In the endless saga of my explorer rear axle swap on my 92 ranger I have encountered another bump. I know the flange for the axle is not the same and I bought what I thought I need, but it seems I never noticed that my driving shaft didn't have any U joint. Instead I have this which complicates things a little bit for me....

 

[adsm08]

That sir, is a Bronco II's CV style drive shaft. Are you sure your Ranger is a Ranger?

 

[FFChuck]

Haha yeah I'm pretty sure my ranger is a ranger (pic to proove it) but it is a 24 years old ranger so it might have gone threw a couple of change by the previous owner(s) I am unfortunatly unaware of . I have the same end on my T case, so let me guess...the original T case blew up and he switched it for a bronco t case with the shaft that came with it? The 8.8 axle is already swaped on my truck... I guess the only solution is a custom driveshaft?

 

[adsm08]

I was thinking maybe someone built a super-short on a BII frame.

No, I would say your best option is the 1-piece swap.

 

[FFChuck]

Thanks for your input adsm08...1 piece you mean Something like that? I bought it a couple of days ago but I was told that with the lift of my truck it would put too much stress on the u joint...

 

[SenorNoob]

If that is the drive-shaft from a comparably equipped 98+ extended cab then yes. Like that.

 

[adsm08]

If you had a lifted truck you should have had the spring perches welded on at an other-then factor angle, to point the pinon up a bit. That would help with the drive line angles.

You could have a custom unit made, possibly something in a double cardan.

 

[bobbywalter]

judging by the picture you should not have any issues with the 1 piece swap...or is it a 8 in lift or something??


your saying the tulip joint is on the factory lower section ofthe ranger drive shaft???

looks like a 2wd shaft to me...


you want a shaft that has a slip as part of the shaft.


do you have a complete pic of your original drive shaft??

 

[--weezl--]

bobby, why does he want a 2 piece shaft, if he is worried about u-joint angles because of the lift, anything with a steady bearing is going to cause more angle... the 1 piece would be the best thing...

as for if this red one would fit, just measure the length of it, compared to the CV style one you pulled out, if they are the same length, you should be fine, provided that the thing (word escapes me right now) goes into the t-case just fine... the flange on the diff should be interchangeable, you might have one that is round instead of square though... unless your new one needs straps, in which case you're f-ed

 

[FFChuck]

Yep I did adjust my pinion angle and I definitly want to go for the 1 piece. I will try the one I bought hoping it's going to fit by changing the flange. I have a 6 inches lift.

Weezl what do you mean if I need straps?

Thank you guys for the infos you are very helpfull


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

bobby, why does he want a 2 piece shaft, if he is worried about u-joint angles because of the lift, anything with a steady bearing is going to cause more angle... the 1 piece would be the best thing...

as for if this red one would fit, just measure the length of it, compared to the CV style one you pulled out, if they are the same length, you should be fine, provided that the thing (word escapes me right now) goes into the t-case just fine... the flange on the diff should be interchangeable, you might have one that is round instead of square though... unless your new one needs straps, in which case you're f-ed

not sure what your saying here.


in the first instance....i had a one piece driveshaft in my 88 ranger long before the factory offered it. specifically for simplification and the bearing hop from the carrier bearing drove me nuts. even in 93 good used driveshafts were hard to get under 200 bux.... for a 4wd truck that gets driven the way i did back then...meant i always had to have a spare shaft or shafts with me because i regularly fawged them up. i used dodge and ford f/s shafts and had them fit...

the best way for off road is to use a two piece shaft that is even longer from the t case to center point and a good dc at the end of that with a real pillow block with the differential aimed at the center point where the cv is....makes for a smoother operation then the one piece.. its more complicated, but use of select parts makes it superior and cost effective for heavy off road use. the long one piece driveshaft is a burden for have off road use.






as to that red drive shaft....that is not going into a 1350 t case. the thingy....a slip yoke is for a 2wd application. he needs a drive shaft slip yoke.

now, if his truck was a 2wd and had a 6 in lift, the guys that sold him the shaft are right, it would be marginal in engagement and would wipe out the case bushing.

he has to modify that shaft with a driveshaft slip yoke that fits the flange style he has...whether flat cv or strap....




my first preference is a single shaft with single u joints and a slip built into the shaft.

but is is not the king for vibration reduction or better operating angles.

depending on how the truck is used, a multi piece setup with a short shaft out back can be the best performance all around.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh.....and if you do indeed fit the long one piece shaft with a internal slip and use it.....even with a 6 in lift, you will likely need to aim the yoke down from the factory setup or leave it alone.


hence my original answer

 

[--weezl--]

there are different styles of flanges, i forget the PROPER names for them, i've got my own names for them, I call this one a flat flange, this is what your CV ds looks like it goes to:

there are other styles though, some used by other companies exclusively, others used by multiples, ford uses the above style alot, and sometimes the first one below

strap style:

they use these things, called straps:

the straps i typically see (for ford applications) on f-350's but more flat flanges than straps.

u-bolt flange, these are very similar to the straps, but they are actual bolts, instead of flatbar:

there are a few other styles as well, such as one that is like the flat flange, except there are no bolts, that side of the u-joint is all one piece, so to pull the driveshaft out, you always have to remove the u-joint it's self by disassembling it, and pulling out the caps, they aren't very common, and i can't think of a single light duty application

 

[FFChuck]

there are different styles of flanges, i forget the PROPER names for them, i've got my own names for them, I call this one a flat flange, this is what your CV ds looks like it goes to:

That is exact part I need to fit on my 8.8 explorer pinion flange.

The other end is a regular flange yoke.

So basically in order:

Transfer case--Flange yoke--U joint--Driveshaft---U joint---Flat flange for 8.8 that connect to my diff

I'll go to the junkyard with my old driveshaft for the lenght. I can use the flange yoke on my red shaft to connect to my T Case. If all fails I will go to a shop and get one custom built. I need my truck and this 8.8 explorer swap (saga) is getting very complicated for what it was supposed to be in the first place.

 

[bobbywalter]

there are different styles of flanges, i forget the PROPER names for them, i've got my own names for them, I call this one a flat flange, this is what your CV ds looks like it goes to:

That is exact part I need to fit on my 8.8 explorer pinion flange.

The other end is a regular flange yoke.

So basically in order:

Transfer case--Flange yoke--U joint--Driveshaft---U joint---Flat flange for 8.8 that connect to my diff

I'll go to the junkyard with my old driveshaft for the lenght. I can use the flange yoke on my red shaft to connect to my T Case. If all fails I will go to a shop and get one custom built. I need my truck and this 8.8 explorer swap (saga) is getting very complicated for what it was supposed to be in the first place.

Transfer case--Flange yoke--U joint--Driveshaft---U joint---Flat flange for 8.8 that connect to my diff

drive shaft with slipshaft.


what did you buy the red driveshaft from? what was its intended original application?


can you get a picture of your complete original drive shaft? and system details?


your obviously not starting with a oem setup. if we can see what you have this could get allot easier.


what you need is a 1 piece 4x4 ranger sc driveshaft. and t case flange for that application. if your original setup with the tulip joints was a two piece, then you may have to modify or relocate the carrier bearing cross-member.

i usually put it on the top rail,