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What does it take to get 10-12 wheel travel all around?


Davis

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
509
Age
38
City
Long Beach, CA
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
So I'm thinking this summer I might rework the suspension on my truck. I want to get about 10" travel, front and rear. It's a 1988 shortbed single cab.

Currently the setup is stock except for skyjacker leveling coils, cut down polyurethane spacers, aftermarket camber bushings and bilstein HD shocks. The shocks ride really nicely, but handling is terrible. I suspect my caster is way outta whack.

So my question is this: Is it possible to get this kind of travel by extending radius arms, using the f-250 shock mount with longer shocks, and an extended coil spring?

I don't want to lift any further (I'll cut fenders or get 'glass first) and I would rather not get new beams (can you bend the forged beam for camber correction, and if so how?).

On the rear, is 10" possible with chevy leafs and stock shock location? I'm not against moving the shocks, it's just that I don't want to cut into the bed.

What do you say? Is this realistic?
 
yes, you probably could get those travel nimbers out of that set up. but imo it would be wasted energy. just because you have more travel doesn't mean it will handle well. I would look into buying a used mid travel kit and use it with alot of dampning. my first kit had about 11" of travel and hendled not too much better than stock because it lacked much needed dampning. and yes you can bend stock forged beams, can be tricky without cutting them and will narrow your track width. the chevy leaf swap isnt all that beneficial unless you have them arched, change shackle placement, and add to the pack.
 
Ok, good to know.

Were I to try this route, I would probably get Bilstein 5100 or 5125s. You think I'd be underdamped with those? Keep in mind I won't go blasting across the desert for hours at a time, or catching several feet of air, so I think remote shocks or the like would be major overkill, and are not in the budget.

I do realize I would have to change shackle locations for the chevy leafs. Why do they need to be arched and added to? Are they too soft or something?
 
bilsteins will work great, if there too soft just run 2 per wheel. the chevy springs need to be arched because that's the only way to get the needed down travel
 

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