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what do you think about my truck?


you're trying to tell me that the gap on the right by the a pillar is just glare? i may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night...
Picture012.jpg



also please spell words properly. waz and da are not the correct way to spell was and the. it makes it hard for me to read your posts when you type like a child.
 
i would really like a picture of the beams, i highly doubt that they're f150 beams because they need way too much work to make them work on a ranger with the two sides equally spaced out from stock. after that i would put a real shock in the front, get rid of the tundra coils (which they're not, tundras use a strut and that is WAY too long and wide to fit on there) because they're bent... probably from the tweaker work on the front lift. also, move your brake line ASAP! it can get pinched between the spring and then you'll have no brakes, talk about a liability. since you're doing all this work to the front end, i would definitely make a new bumper that has some nice welds, a functional skid plate, and tubes that are bent/notched instead of just bent and doubled on top of each other.

idk about the beams... the springs are from a tundra. just an older 1. but for now, they work. but thx for the idea i will prolly swap them out when i get the money for some good ones.. and for the brake line to get pinched i would have to hit a big ass bump to pinch it, and im not a rough driver. but i will move it cause if im wrong im skrewed. the bumper is fine for me, i jump on it and stuff all the time. lol its prolly sturdier than the whole truck
 
you're trying to tell me that the gap on the right by the a pillar is just glare? i may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night...
Picture012.jpg



also please spell words properly. waz and da are not the correct way to spell was and the. it makes it hard for me to read your posts when you type like a child.

ill go look at it tomorrow and check it out and post a better pic.

and sorry about the spelling. its been a while since ive typed and im used to texting.
 
for the bed cage, cut it off when the cab cage comes out as well. once the bed cage is out, remove the rest of the bed. there is honestly no reason to keep it on there since the majority of it is cut out. it is possible to pull the stock metal bedsides off and mount them to a bedcage, or you could just get fiberglass and mount that up. since you're replacing the front shocks, get some for the rear end at the same time. a 2.0x14 or 16" with a reservoir would be perfect for your truck, and if you can afford a 2.5 body that would be even better. rebuild the cage with some nice tube, lay out the tubes better so that it doesnt look like the back half of the cage was added on as an after thought. double shear your shock mounts, and mount it off the axle or the spring plates with some nice quality tabs. how you mount your spare is up to you, but the only thing i can imagine if i were to hit the back bumper with my truck is that i'd annihilate the ratchet for the strap, and then your spare would bounce out and we'd both be in trouble.

i agree with you about the cage but money is an issue for me. im just gonna keep the bed how it is it looks good and functions. i already got some res. shocks for da rear, they just need to be rebuilt. im keeping the front shocks and later replacing the springs. the rear axel has a nice set of tabs on it for shocks that are on top of the leafs unused and ready. and the spare... eh... ill DGAF it.
also should i just remove the body lift all together?

thanks for the ideas... now if only i had the money to put them to work. lol
 
you're trying to tell me that the gap on the right by the a pillar is just glare? i may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night...
Picture012.jpg



also please spell words properly. waz and da are not the correct way to spell was and the. it makes it hard for me to read your posts when you type like a child.

well, now i feel like a dumbass. i just looked at the cage and theres about a 2 1/2" gap between the cage and the cab.

im gonna leave the cage in for now... it shuld still keep me safe in a normal single rollover
 

a body lift will cause your cab to crack through the mounts, and basically tear apart. and you can't remove it because the cab cage should be connected to the frame, through holes cut in the floor of the cab. if you remove the body lift, the cab cage will be too tall to allow the body to drop down to the stock height
 
yeah i know... blonde moment, haha.

also, u seem to be knowledgable so... my rear end has 3:88 gearing. is this good? and for what? can you explain how the gearing works?
 
depends on what you mean by "good."

i had 3.73's in my truck stock, when i switched to my 33's i have now it was a dog and hated to accelerate or go up hills. i'd re-gear if i were you. search around for different gear options, i'm going to suggest 4.56 but it could end up being a different ratio number based on how you want the truck to drive, and the type of driving you do most. i have a 4.10 ratio now, which is great for me since it was the closest ratio to my stock gear ratio with my stock sized tires.
 
ok thx... she seems to have quite a bit of power still with her setup. but ill put a new ratio on my list too.

so how much do you think my truck is worth? did i get a good deal or did i get ripped?
 
well... thx to everybody on this thread.... i think i might just sell my truck now.

any takers?
 
id take them fender.lol and why do you wanna sell it?

to buy another 1980's ranger... everyone is just pointing out how much of a money pit this truck is... and when you have no money to begin with, thats not a good thing.

but im prolly not sellin her. just a thought in my mind. :icon_idea:
 

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