• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

what do you think about my truck?


Heavyfire14

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Messages
1,383
City
imperial valley
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Automatic
1989 ford ranger ext. cab, 2.9, 5 speed, 2wd, f150 beams up front, tundra springs with procomp res. shocks, leaf springs and crap rancho shocks in da rear, prerunner dash, caged in cab and bed, full size spare, full time locked rear end, prerunner front bumper with 2 hella 500's, alloy rims, 32x11.50r15 tires, 3 seats, fiberglass front fenders, flared bed rear

Picture004.jpg

Picture001.jpg

Picture012.jpg

Picture011.jpg

Picture010.jpg

Picture009.jpg

Picture008.jpg

Picture007.jpg

Picture006.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Id get some new tires and hit the dunes to beat the piss out of that thing.
 
after further review of the pictures WTF is boogerwelded on the frame rail in front of the coil bucket?
Does it have a stock pitman arm causing the tires wear like that?
I would closely inspect anything critical to make sure the last jackass who owned the truck didnt build you a ticking time bomb.
 
uhhhhh..... no. not trying to be a dick, but i would change about 98% of everything i see in the pictures.

what would you redo? id love to know... this is my truck and im not ever gettin rid of it and im tryin to fix whats not right.

the first time i drove a ranger i was 9. it was my grandpas white stick shift (like mine) and after he died that year, i have wanted one since then. so im gonna fix and keep this one
 
after further review of the pictures WTF is boogerwelded on the frame rail in front of the coil bucket?
Does it have a stock pitman arm causing the tires wear like that?
I would closely inspect anything critical to make sure the last jackass who owned the truck didnt build you a ticking time bomb.

ummm... it has f150 arms. and the boogerwelded thing is prolly the steering stablizer mount if its what im looking at?

shes sturdy but ima redo alot when i get a job and get the money...

my first priority is tires. then to overhaul the 2.9 under da hood. she runs great but, i wanna redo the motor so when i go on a long drive im not S.O.L. on da side of da road
 
what's the deal w/ the control arm drop brackets? it looks like 2 brackets stacked or something?
i think its a good base. needs a little touchups but.. DO IT!
 
what's the deal w/ the control arm drop brackets? it looks like 2 brackets stacked or something?
i think its a good base. needs a little touchups but.. DO IT!

meby cause its lifted? idk tho... tweakers arent great mechanics!!! lol

ima make her work better as i go :3gears:
 
i understand the RA drop bracket, just never seen one like that before.
 
yea, theres alot on my truck that ive never seen on anything else. lol

its setup for coil overs front and rear... but i wouldnt trust the brackets. so ima keep it like that and reinforce everything later...

also, how do u think 33x12.50r15 bfg's would look on it? too wide? meaby 32x 12.50 or 33x11.50 those are what im lookin at right now.
 
what would you redo? id love to know... this is my truck and im not ever gettin rid of it and im tryin to fix whats not right.

the first time i drove a ranger i was 9. it was my grandpas white stick shift (like mine) and after he died that year, i have wanted one since then. so im gonna fix and keep this one

i'd cut the whole cab cage out. if it's tweaker build, it's most likely crappy tube and horrible welds. also, it is not tucked tight to the cab at all, in the third pic it looks like i could fit my fist through the gap between the cab and the tube on the A pillar. i would also rip out the dash, because from the looks of it the stock gauge cluster is just sitting on the floor. also based on your kill switch thread, and the spiderweb of wires by the steering wheel in the 1st picture, there is most likely a lot of stuff that needs to be re-done to make it safer.

i would really like a picture of the beams, i highly doubt that they're f150 beams because they need way too much work to make them work on a ranger with the two sides equally spaced out from stock. after that i would put a real shock in the front, get rid of the tundra coils (which they're not, tundras use a strut and that is WAY too long and wide to fit on there) because they're bent... probably from the tweaker work on the front lift. also, move your brake line ASAP! it can get pinched between the spring and then you'll have no brakes, talk about a liability. since you're doing all this work to the front end, i would definitely make a new bumper that has some nice welds, a functional skid plate, and tubes that are bent/notched instead of just bent and doubled on top of each other.

for the bed cage, cut it off when the cab cage comes out as well. once the bed cage is out, remove the rest of the bed. there is honestly no reason to keep it on there since the majority of it is cut out. it is possible to pull the stock metal bedsides off and mount them to a bedcage, or you could just get fiberglass and mount that up. since you're replacing the front shocks, get some for the rear end at the same time. a 2.0x14 or 16" with a reservoir would be perfect for your truck, and if you can afford a 2.5 body that would be even better. rebuild the cage with some nice tube, lay out the tubes better so that it doesnt look like the back half of the cage was added on as an after thought. double shear your shock mounts, and mount it off the axle or the spring plates with some nice quality tabs. how you mount your spare is up to you, but the only thing i can imagine if i were to hit the back bumper with my truck is that i'd annihilate the ratchet for the strap, and then your spare would bounce out and we'd both be in trouble.
 
i'd cut the whole cab cage out. if it's tweaker build, it's most likely crappy tube and horrible welds. also, it is not tucked tight to the cab at all, in the third pic it looks like i could fit my fist through the gap between the cab and the tube on the A pillar. i would also rip out the dash, because from the looks of it the stock gauge cluster is just sitting on the floor. also based on your kill switch thread, and the spiderweb of wires by the steering wheel in the 1st picture, there is most likely a lot of stuff that needs to be re-done to make it safer.

the cab cage and the dash waz the only thing not tweaker done... itis tucked in close to the cab, i can barley fit my fingers between da cab and cage, its just the glare that makes it look like that. its the bed cage that needs to be redone. as for the guages im buying new ones to fit in this dash. the kill switch ended up not being a kill switch, its to turn the a/c compresser on and off.(i called the guy i got it from and he suddenly remembered that it waznt a kill switch and told me what it waz really for). the wireing on the truck has all been redone allready. the wites by the steering wheel are just 12 volt access panels (1 ground 1 hot)
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top