What did YOU do today?

[Rick W]

I’m starting to get into Craigslist/marketplace a little….

I got these for the upcoming converter dolly, car trailer project, and one other. But I got such a deal, I’m thinking of flipping them. Can’t beat the price.

$20 - Does anybody recognize what jeep this might be from? He said he was told a “two door model Jeep.” I don’t know if that would be a Cherokee or a Jeep Jeep or ???

That’s a 2-5/16” ball. I’ll have to cut it off with a cut off wheel if I can’t get a key. I might flip it if I can figure out what it fits.

And I picked up these two for $30 total and he threw in six new dirty 5/8 x 8 grounding rods. I’ll sell them for $60-70, more than I paid for everything.

The top one is a Draw-Tite 41532 for 1999-2004 Ford F-250 and F-350 trucks.

I’ll probably flip that. It should go quick for $100 around here. That pays for more parts for the fabrication.

The bottom one is super heavy duty, twice the strength of the Draw-Tite. That one might also be worth flipping instead of cutting up if I can figure out what it fits.

& I’ll keep trolling until I get ready to build…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m starting to get into Craigslist/marketplace a little….

I got these for the upcoming converter dolly, car trailer project, and one other. But I got such a deal, I’m thinking of flipping them. Can’t beat the price.

$20 - Does anybody recognize what jeep this might be from? He said he was told a “two door model Jeep.” I don’t know if that would be a Cherokee or a Jeep Jeep or ???

View attachment 140953

That’s a 2-5/16” ball. I’ll have to cut it off with a cut off wheel if I can’t get a key. I might flip it if I can figure out what it fits.

And I picked up these two for $30 total and he threw in six new dirty 5/8 x 8 grounding rods. I’ll sell them for $60-70, more than I paid for everything.

View attachment 140954View attachment 140955View attachment 140956

The top one is a Draw-Tite 41532 for 1999-2004 Ford F-250 and F-350 trucks.

View attachment 140959

I’ll probably flip that. It should go quick for $100 around here. That pays for more parts for the fabrication.

The bottom one is super heavy duty, twice the strength of the Draw-Tite. That one might also be worth flipping instead of cutting up if I can figure out what it fits.

& I’ll keep trolling until I get ready to build…

So, those hitch locks are usually pretty cheaply made, usually take a 4-pin key, usually pretty easy to pick, unless they are clogged up with road crud, then even a key won’t open them half the time.

 

[pjtoledo]

one can never have too many C clamps.
welded cross bars on the lathe stands.

 

[Rick W]

one can never have too many C clamps.
welded cross bars on the lathe stands.

View attachment 140987

Looks like the “monkey bars” that were in the city park when I was a kid, back when you could have fun without the lawyers getting everybody to sue each other…

 

[Roert42]

35 would feel so low. here in south texas, the average i saw, depending on how close to the tower, of course, was 60-65. guys close to the towers had to get pressure reducers added to the house inlet or their toilets valves would keep breaking because the close houses generally saw 80-110psi.

my house reads 60 at the shed and garage level spigots, i never check the upstairs because you can feel how low it is compared to downstairs.

a plumber came and did a pressure test on the supply and sewer side last week for the builder of our new house. he stupidly pumped the lines up to 100psi and blew out the toilet valve in the shed. since i was at work, i didn't know till got home and was wondering why the toilet was running out there. the builder called and told me how impressed the plumber was that the system held so much pressure and no leaks on the supply lines.

i told him nothing should leak because i redid all the upstairs lines last rummer rerouting where we had all the stuff in the kitchen and also how i had to redo alot of the sewer lines at the city side of the yard since they never glue anything.

but i hadn't found the toilet till later so i didn't get to tell him how that flush valve leaks now.

When we bought the house my mother lives in, had to re do most the plumbing. House was empty for a while. Pipe was mix of copper, black, and clear vinyl tubing?. When I turned the water on, the Vinyl and the black both burst. Replace everything with copper, good to go.

Turn the water heater on, the over pressure valve is leaking, strange. Put a new one in, still leaking. Had a pumper come and check the pressure to the house and it was around 150psi, something like that. Guy put a pressure regulator in for cheaper then I could order one online.

Explains the issues with the exploding pipes.

 

[Rick W]

When we bought the house my mother lives in, had to re do most the plumbing. House was empty for a while. Pipe was mix of copper, black, and clear vinyl tubing?. When I turned the water on, the Vinyl and the black both burst. Replace everything with copper, good to go.

Turn the water heater on, the over pressure valve is leaking, strange. Put a new one in, still leaking. Had a pumper come and check the pressure to the house and it was around 150psi, something like that. Guy put a pressure regulator in for cheaper then I could order one online.

Explains the issues with the exploding pipes.

Cc: @superj

I’m creeping up on 71 years on this earth, and we’ve owned and managed an awful a lot of real estate, and I never heard of a house or a building in general that didn’t have a pressure regulating valve on the incoming water line. Having said that, I’ve always lived in the city/organize suburbs. Obviously, things might be different in the outlining areas where there might only be limited state plumbing codes.

My beef is with the water-saving stuff. I’d much rather have a decent flow at a lower pressure than a pressure washer, but that’s me.