What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

Redid most of the rear suspension over the last few days, not done but happy with it so far. I did notice however most of the fuel pump connector has dissolved. Anyone ever see that before?

Also did a little burnout to test the lack of wheel hop.

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Wouldn’t be that hard to replace that harness with a spark plug

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

If you use wheel spacers, make sure you look up the torque specs, and look up what kind of thread lock you’re supposed to use.

When Ford/Lincoln designed my Continental Mark V, they were working on an agreement with Michelin to design special wide wheels and tires specifically for that car. Michelin never did it, and Ford used turban wheels from the parts bin. If you think about every one you’ve seen with the original wheels, the cars look great, but they look like they’re sitting on rollerskate wheels, tucked in too far.

I think the original tires were 225/75/15. I put on some 255/60/15 (??), but then the tires didn’t clear on the inside. I got 2 inch wheel spacers and put them all around. The set up looks great, it looks like what it’s supposed to be from the design of the car. Everything cleared when I tested it in the driveway, But if I am driving, and I make a hard turn to left or right and hit the slightest bump, the front tires will scuff the inner fender. I bought some inch and a half spacers to replace the 2 inch spacers a couple years ago, and I think I’ve got two or three years before I have to put them in…

From the safety standpoint, I vaguely remember that the spacers were supposed to be torqued to something like 120 with red thread lock, and then the wheels were supposed to be torqued to 90 with no thread lock or blue thread lock. The concept is you want the wheel to come off before the spacer comes loose.

Point being, don’t just check your clearances, check your clearances including the up-and-down vehicle travel relative to the wheel spindle.

My two cents, hope it helps

Yup, I had thought about all of that, which is why I got some spacer plates to see if I can mount these on the truck to check clearances everywhere, even off-camber it a bit around home although it’s not really intended for being used off-road. Figure out just what my clearance is everywhere so I can pick the correct spacer. These plates are 5/16” thick and definitely not a long term solution or something I’m going to want to drive super hard with, but they will get me past the center bore on the axles so I can test fit the wheels. I have a different rear axle than Josh, so I’m not sure I can just go by his spacer size and expect it to be correct. But his input is still valuable because it means I’m likely to need at least 1” spacers all around which also means that I probably will not have to worry about milling out the center bore of these rims, just get spacers that have the bore size I need.

 

[Rick W]

Yup, I had thought about all of that, which is why I got some spacer plates to see if I can mount these on the truck to check clearances everywhere, even off-camber it a bit around home although it’s not really intended for being used off-road. Figure out just what my clearance is everywhere so I can pick the correct spacer. These plates are 5/16” thick and definitely not a long term solution or something I’m going to want to drive super hard with, but they will get me past the center bore on the axles so I can test fit the wheels. I have a different rear axle than Josh, so I’m not sure I can just go by his spacer size and expect it to be correct. But his input is still valuable because it means I’m likely to need at least 1” spacers all around which also means that I probably will not have to worry about milling out the center bore of these rims, just get spacers that have the bore size I need.

I would never drive on it, but if you want to test clearance, you could just start with a big box of half-inch washers And shim out the wheels using three of the lugs, or even drill out some plywood or such.

In the old days, 80s/90s, several times I put Dooley wheels on the back of a three-quarter ton Chevy. I think we did it on a I think we did it on an F250 as well. They had to be spaced out. We started by putting Lugnuts on the studs (without a wheel) but reversed. If you think about it a second, when you put the Dooleys on you reverse the taper facing inwards. I think we ended up with a couple of Thick flat washers, that we bolted to the wheel with reverse lug nuts, mounted the wheel, and then had Lugnuts on the outside. If I recall, right, we actually had to get longer lug bolts and turn down part of them and thread them further. That was a challenge because it was all hard steel.

I thought and a disclaimer. That meant we bolted the drum to the drum assembly before we put the wheel on, and then we bolted the wheels to that. Some people would scream that that was unsafe, but I don’t know why it would be, and therefore I don’t advise anybody do that.

We modified those trucks because we pulled a lot of trailers, and the Dooleys always seem to track better with the trailer. We added a couple leaf springs, so clearance under the fender wasn’t an issue, but they would sling mud, So we yeah, today 2 inch rubber bumper fender trim thing to contain the mud.

My point to you is that you can use three lug bolts and use anything on earth for a spacer as long as you do it evenly, to check geometry in the driveway. Then you could get the right size spacer. You might need to get it too thick and turn it down if it’s an oddball number, or maybe use full Diameter perforated shim plates behind the spacer. One thing most people miss on thread locker, is that it lock surfaces together. If you ever use multiple layers like that, put the red thread locker on the surfaces of the things you put together just before you torque them down.

My two cents, albeit this is two WWII steel pennies from my demented mind that built the Road Ranger, only offered to help think it out.

Might be interesting if you took a couple of pictures of the hubs along the way (Since you’ve got nothing to do)

 

[Rick W]

Redid most of the rear suspension over the last few days, not done but happy with it so far. I did notice however most of the fuel pump connector has dissolved. Anyone ever see that before?

Also did a little burnout to test the lack of wheel hop.

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Afterthought on a serious note.

That plug looks to me like the contacts got hot, which spurred my joke. If you haven’t taken it apart yet, you might want to look very closely at those hook connectors, and the pins they slide on to, to see if there’s corrosion. A lot of amps go to the pump, and if those are corroded, it could be a point that generates heat. It’s as simple as reaming them out with a tiny brush or whatever, and running a brush over the pins. Maybe squeezing the connectors a little bit before you slip them on. Then dab the whole thing with polyurethane.

If I remember correctly, I had a similar condition when I built the Road Ranger, but it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as what you have. I cleaned mine a little, put a little E6000 in the plastic crack, and did a couple wraps of PVC tape around the connector when I put it back together.

I just bought a replacement pump. I’m going to take a very good look at it when I get that far, but that may be a while.

Hope it helps

 

[Dantheman1540]

Afterthought on a serious note.

That plug looks to me like the contacts got hot, which spurred my joke. If you haven’t taken it apart yet, you might want to look very closely at those hook connectors, and the pins they slide on to, to see if there’s corrosion. A lot of amps go to the pump, and if those are corroded, it could be a point that generates heat. It’s as simple as reaming them out with a tiny brush or whatever, and running a brush over the pins. Maybe squeezing the connectors a little bit before you slip them on. Then dab the whole thing with polyurethane.

If I remember correctly, I had a similar condition when I built the Road Ranger, but it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as what you have. I cleaned mine a little, put a little E6000 in the plastic crack, and did a couple wraps of PVC tape around the connector when I put it back together.

I just bought a replacement pump. I’m going to take a very good look at it when I get that far, but that may be a while.

Hope it helps

Man you had me scratching my head hard with that first reply. I didn’t pull it apart, for fears it would immediately stop working and clog my shop for a week or so. I agree with you tho it could have gotten hot and melted although it really looks to me like it was eaten away because there’s no remnants of the melted plastic. I’ll look at a new hat and Hotwire kit for it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'd guess someone put some kind of lube on that connection and over time it ate it up.

 

[Rick W]

Man you had me scratching my head hard with that first reply. I didn’t pull it apart, for fears it would immediately stop working and clog my shop for a week or so. I agree with you tho it could have gotten hot and melted although it really looks to me like it was eaten away because there’s no remnants of the melted plastic. I’ll look at a new hat and Hotwire kit for it.

Like I said, when I get around to mine, I’ll take a closer look, but one more thought.

Very high heat will melt most of the connectors around the truck sort of made of vinyl or nylon or similar. I’m not sure what that particular connector is made from, but it may be a different kind of plastic. A medium high heat, if that makes any sense, may be constantly baking it, as opposed to a high heat that would just melt it. Plastics are fundamentally petroleum, and over time you could drive off the short-chain carbon elements and be left with the long-chain carbon elements. In plain English, you bake off the soft stuff and keep the hard stuff, and then the hard stuff crumbles because it’s the soft stuff that holds it together.

Don’t ever tell my engineering professor I said it that way…

My last thought is if you’re going to replace the plug-in entirely, if you use a scrapyard plug or if you actually buy a new one and you’re going to splice it in, probably best to solder the wires together, adding extra fibers of wire from a piece of scrap wire, and use shrink wrap. Or, double layer them with some scrap wire and a larger crimp connector if you’re going to use crimp connectors. Both so you create more Individual wires to flow through at the splice.

My two cents

(and if you never caught my sick humor, if it’s getting that hot, you could blow up the gas tank more quickly with a spark plug).

 

[Dantheman1540]

I'd guess someone put some kind of lube on that connection and over time it ate it up.

That’s highly possible, when I got the truck the filler neck tube was totally eaten away which I’ve never seen before.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Like I said, when I get around to mine, I’ll take a closer look, but one more thought.

Very high heat will melt most of the connectors around the truck are sort of made of vinyl or nylon or similar. I’m not sure what that particular connector is made from, but it may be a different kind of plastic. A medium high heat, if that makes any sense, may be constantly baking it, as opposed to a high heat that would just melt it. Plastics are fundamentally petroleum, and overtime you could drive off the short-chain carbon elements and be left with the long-chain carbon elements. In plain English, you bake off the soft stuff and keep the hard stuff, and then the hard stuff crumbles because it’s the soft stuff that holds it together.

Don’t ever tell my engineering professor I said it that way…

My last thought is if you’re going to replace the plug-in entirely, if you use a scrapyard plug or if you actually buy a new one and you’re going to splice it in, probably best to solder the wires together, adding extra fibers of wire from a piece of scrap wire, and use shrink wrap. Or, double layer them with some scrap wire and a larger crimp connector if you’re going to use crimp connectors. Both so you create more Individual wires to flow through at the splice.

My two cents

I was hoping to not have to slice, hadn’t looked hard enough to see if I could de-pin it and repin a new connector. Or remove that harness completely and replace it all. Need to pull the bed again I suppose

 

[Rick W]

I was hoping to not have to slice, hadn’t looked hard enough to see if I could de-pin it and repin a new connector. Or remove that harness completely and replace it all. Need to pull the bed again I suppose

Not trying to drive you nuts, but obviously the most important thing is to make sure the pins and hooks are polished. After that, you can use something like E 6000 to fill in the holes, and just wrap it with some tape. Doesn’t have to look pretty in that location, but has to be safe.

 

[JoshT]

Took off work to recieve parts. Well didn't have to burn leave, but did have to go home and sit around waiting for parts to arrive.

Few weeks ago I ordered new cat pipes for my V8 swap. Took a chance and ordered through Hottexhaust.com because their pricing plus discount code was best I found for what I wanted. I was questionable about the site, but they seem to be an exclusive Magnaflow dealer, and reviews seemed legit. I can say that that part was a good experience. I guess that the pipes are made to order, there was a couple of week lead time and one of the pipes shows that the tube was manufactured in May of this year. That would make sense for made to order. The shipping label was printed on the 29th and UPS shows that they arrived at the UPS facility at about 7pm the same day. Was notified the next morning of a mechanical issue causing a delay and that they would be delayed by one day, no problem. They were still in state at a distribution hub the same day. Next day 31st (Halloween) got a failed delivery notice due to no one available to sign, I was never notified that it was signature delivery. Worked out because I was able to split from work after lunch today without burning leave.

Here's the thing about that delivery speed. They were shipped from Ontario Canada to Middle GA. If it hadn't been for the mechanical issue, and the signature SNAFU, it would have been next day delivery. Now here's the kicker, coupon codes saved me about $150 off normal prices and free shipping. WOW! If looking for Magnaflow products in the future, I'd definitely checl with them.

Went with Magnaflow because, well because magnaflow. I assumed that would mean something, not I'm not entire certain. Reports I'd read suggested that they might be 2.5" diameter pipes instead of the smaller stock 2.25" diameter (gets down to 2" in places IIRC). What I recieved was definitely 2.25" pipes, but they are mandrel bent instead of crush bent so should flow better anyway. Also not 200K mile converters that were sitting open in the yard for 10 years, so there might be something gained there as well. Appearance wise, they don;t look much better than pictures of the Davico exhaust converters available through RockAuto for less. That's just looking at pictures though, I haven't seen the Davico exhaust ones in person. They they may not be mandrel bent like the Magnaflow pipes (hard to tell from pictures), but they look better than the wrinkled factory bends.

Now to head out hunting for the weekend, then I'll come back and hopefully finish putting the EGR back in on Sunday.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Apparently my '97 had plans for me tonight... the starter solenoid on the top of the starter is no longer attached to the starter body, found out tonight at work when I climbed in and just got a click from the relay on the fender... heck hadn't paid enough attention to know it still had a relay... jumped the relay that I found (obvious where it is when you hear the click) then wiggled some wires with no change so went to wiggle the wire at the starter and the whole solenoid moved a LOT so yeah, I know what it is . The starter has been a little odd lately, been meaning to look into it, now I know...

 

[scotts90ranger]

What in the heck kind of Mopar wiring jackassery is up with the starter system in a '97? There's a normal Ford starter relay on the inner fender that has two big wires going to it and so forth like normal but then the starter has a big wire which you would expect goes to the relay but you'd be wrong then there's the small wire going to the solenoid which sounds simple enough but if you take both big wires off the starter relay you lose your radio presets but the starter is still live? WTF! I mean I didn't arc anything but I was trying to be safe and keep my radio presets and I did the opposite

Anyway, both starter solenoid bolts were still in place since they go in from the bellhousing side, I cleaned everything half ass (acetone and compressed air) then blue loctited the solenoid bolts in. Oddly enough I think the starter is original on this thing, it's a Motorcraft with an F1 part number...

 

[Rick W]

What in the heck kind of Mopar wiring jackassery is up with the starter system in a '97? There's a normal Ford starter relay on the inner fender that has two big wires going to it and so forth like normal but then the starter has a big wire which you would expect goes to the relay but you'd be wrong then there's the small wire going to the solenoid which sounds simple enough but if you take both big wires off the starter relay you lose your radio presets but the starter is still live? WTF! I mean I didn't arc anything but I was trying to be safe and keep my radio presets and I did the opposite

Anyway, both starter solenoid bolts were still in place since they go in from the bellhousing side, I cleaned everything half ass (acetone and compressed air) then blue loctited the solenoid bolts in. Oddly enough I think the starter is original on this thing, it's a Motorcraft with an F1 part number...

I’m about to walk out and put the new alternator in my 97, 4.0. I can take a look at how mine is set up and let you know later.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Alternators are cake, I changed mine twice with the battery on, I just didn't take the time to make sense of what the starter is doing, I know the normal logic it just isn't using it, it's all stock, not really curious enough to look it up either since it works...