What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Manscout]

I was getting the grind/noise of death when loading in a left turn. That meant time for a new hub.

Old hub was so bad that I had to grip several lugs with my fist to turn it. The front end on these is remarkably simple to tear down once you have done it. The hardest part is getting the stupid plastic keeper off the CV axle stub in the hub.

While replacing, I discovered the boot to my upper ball joint had worn through.

I bought a Detroit Axle front-end kit two years ago when I bought the truck. It was a great deal, but the boots keep wearing out. I've now replaced almost everything that kit came with. I'm usually willing to try something once. It was worth it at the time to get the truck up to operating standards, but short lived.

Once that was buttoned up, it was on to modifying the supercharger snout to fit the new pulley I got from the machine shop. I had to grind down the stabilizing fins to accommodate the smaller ID of the new pulley.

The new pulley fit perfectly and works great!

 

[broncc]

I'd love to read a writeup on the supercharging adventure. Sticking one on my OHV is something that crosses my mind too much. I'm not too concerned about making one fit since I have buddies with water jets and TIG machines. I would like to know about fueling and where/when the weak points cause problems.

 

[Manscout]

I'd love to read a writeup on the supercharging adventure.

I've got a post here with a link to my YouTube Channel that documents most of what I have done so far. https://www.therangerstation.com/fo...ding-4-0-supercharger-info.78240/post-1993086
I do plan on a write up with instructions and templates once I button everything down.

 

[Rick W]

Oh wise ones…..

A general question for a project I’m thinking about. I’m thinking of building a trailer that would have some electronic gizmos on it. My question is about charging a battery that would be on the trailer.

Specifically, I think I heard one time that if you simply tie the trailer battery positive into the trailer light circuit, the running lights, that when the lights are on it will charge the battery. Is that true?

I know the traditional way to charge it from the vehicle is to use a seven blade connector, where one of the blades is power from the battery or alternator to the trailer battery. My question is if I could do it with the running light circuit.

All comments welcome…

 

[Curious Hound]

Oh wise ones…..

A general question for a project I’m thinking about. I’m thinking of building a trailer that would have some electronic gizmos on it. My question is about charging a battery that would be on the trailer.

Specifically, I think I heard one time that if you simply tie the trailer battery positive into the trailer light circuit, the running lights, that when the lights are on it will charge the battery. Is that true?

I know the traditional way to charge it from the vehicle is to use a seven blade connector, where one of the blades is power from the battery or alternator to the trailer battery. My question is if I could do it with the running light circuit.

All comments welcome…

I would discourage that. Your running light circuit is only designed for a certain amount of load. Charging a battery could exceed that and blow the fuse. Then you have no lights. Much better and safer to run a separate fused power supply from the trucks battery.

Many vehicles with trailer towing package don't even run trailer lights directly from the vehicle light circuits (running lights, brake/turn, reverse). They use the vehicle circuits to trigger relays to activate the trailer lights on their own fused circuits.

 

[4.0blue98]

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh wise ones…..

A general question for a project I’m thinking about. I’m thinking of building a trailer that would have some electronic gizmos on it. My question is about charging a battery that would be on the trailer.

Specifically, I think I heard one time that if you simply tie the trailer battery positive into the trailer light circuit, the running lights, that when the lights are on it will charge the battery. Is that true?

I know the traditional way to charge it from the vehicle is to use a seven blade connector, where one of the blades is power from the battery or alternator to the trailer battery. My question is if I could do it with the running light circuit.

All comments welcome…

I run 7-blade plugs on everything I own and tow with. Here in the rust belt, those flat 4-pin plugs like to rot. The 7-blade plugs have a spring loaded cover and last a LOT longer around here. Plus it gives me options. My trailers are all intended to have backup lights and I’d like to fit electric brakes on everything. Right now the little trailer is wired for backup lights and I believe I ran a wire for brakes, but neither is done yet. The big trailer has brakes but no backup lights. The boat trailer has neither yet. And brakes on the tow dolly would be nice.

 

[Rick W]

I run 7-blade plugs on everything I own and tow with. Here in the rust belt, those flat 4-pin plugs like to rot. The 7-blade plugs have a spring loaded cover and last a LOT longer around here. Plus it gives me options. My trailers are all intended to have backup lights and I’d like to fit electric brakes on everything. Right now the little trailer is wired for backup lights and I believe I ran a wire for brakes, but neither is done yet. The big trailer has brakes but no backup lights. The boat trailer has neither yet. And brakes on the tow dolly would be nice.

Ditto, that’s what I’ve done with my trailers.

Here’s why I asked. I used the seven blade on The Road Ranger and on The Road Ranger trailer. The “official“ wiring diagram calls for one pin to be the 12 V auxiliary. That 97 ranger has the amber turn signals and red brake lights, so I used that auxiliary to run a brake light circuit so I could still have Amber turn signals on the trailer. Now I have a vision on two different projects where I would need a battery on the trailer itself. I guess I need an eighth blade….

If I don’t hear a better idea, right now, I am shifting to making that blade the 12 V auxiliary again, and running the brake light through the “official“ ground terminal, and then running a separate single ground wire and connector. I’m thinking that would be the least critical since you also have ground through the hitch. And like you, I would like the same wiring on all my trucks and trailers so they’re all interchangeable.

What amazes me a little bit is that the cost of the seven blade connectors and sockets have come down so far they only cost a dollar more than the old four pin connectors!

But again, I’m wide open to suggestions.

 

[mikkelstuff]

2002 4WD Ranger XLT extended cab: Had the right front fender replaced. This had been my Dad's Nebraska truck when brother and I purchased this for him. The truck had belonged to the Missouri state highway department for the first 45,000 miles. I got it with about 111,000 miles on the odometer.

I had to have the left front fender replaced a few years back. A side swipe and run at the Home Depot parking lot. This is Colorado so no surprise there.

Somewhere along the line, a rust hole developed in the lower rear corner of this right front fender. Clearly the fender had been patched but was rusting out again. My good body man felt, as did I, that it was better to replace the fender.

The replacement fender was about $350. The work total with labor and paint ran to $1233. I consider that to be maybe two new truck monthly payments and well worth the cost.

Can't just let a fine truck like this rust away!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ditto, that’s what I’ve done with my trailers.

Here’s why I asked. I used the seven blade on The Road Ranger and on The Road Ranger trailer. The “official“ wiring diagram calls for one pin to be the 12 V auxiliary. That 97 ranger has the amber turn signals and red brake lights, so I used that auxiliary to run a brake light circuit so I could still have Amber turn signals on the trailer. Now I have a vision on two different projects where I would need a battery on the trailer itself. I guess I need an eighth blade….

If I don’t hear a better idea, right now, I am shifting to making that blade the 12 V auxiliary again, and running the brake light through the “official“ ground terminal, and then running a separate single ground wire and connector. I’m thinking that would be the least critical since you also have ground through the hitch. And like you, I would like the same wiring on all my trucks and trailers so they’re all interchangeable.

What amazes me a little bit is that the cost of the seven blade connectors and sockets have come down so far they only cost a dollar more than the old four pin connectors!

But again, I’m wide open to suggestions.

What about having a second plug like a round 4-pin for any non-normal wiring? I had originally thought of wiring my truck and trailers off of the normal scheme so that people couldn’t just plug in and take my trailer, but any wiring changes I make on the truck side, I’d have to either make and carry an adapter harness or never tow anything but my stuff. So I’d rather have the truck side wired correctly and do any changes to the trailer or a separate plug. I’ve actually considered running a backup camera through a separate plug onto the trailer and mount a camera on the back of the trailer.

 

[sgtsandman]

Packed the 2011 for AOAA. I'm just waiting on the Garmin to update and I'll be on my way.

 

[Rick W]

What about having a second plug like a round 4-pin for any non-normal wiring? I had originally thought of wiring my truck and trailers off of the normal scheme so that people couldn’t just plug in and take my trailer, but any wiring changes I make on the truck side, I’d have to either make and carry an adapter harness or never tow anything but my stuff. So I’d rather have the truck side wired correctly and do any changes to the trailer or a separate plug. I’ve actually considered running a backup camera through a separate plug onto the trailer and mount a camera on the back of the trailer.

i’ve actually already done that. In addition to all the normal trailer wiring, I also run low level strobe lights (flashers). From the controller, there are two circuits, two positives and two negatives, so I used a four pin aviation plug (the same thing as a Cobra CB mic plug). And of course I’ve used up those for pins! And then I was thinking of running the high power strobes, which ground to the frame, but that means I have to run another wire to power them!

But I am back to what I said before, your most important point, I think, to keep the truck standard, and either add a plug or modify it on the trailer end. Remember, there’s really no practical reason for any of this, it’s just playing.

Too many toys….

 

[pjtoledo]

bought some machinery bushings to move the front diff yolk out so a new seal won't be on the old wear mark.
the ID matches the oil slinger, OD matches the contact area on the yolk.
I'll place them between the yolk & slinger, won't affect the preload.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Looked a bit deeper into the brake light on the dash... sucked out the old brake fluid (it was dang near black) put in new and bled it.

Light is still on. My next thought is the mastercylinder is going out. Brakes still feel good.

So I am certain that with all the rust on the brake lines they are going to crumble as soon as I put a wrench on them, so I figured that I am due for a complete brake line replacement along with the booster as it is close to rusting through below the master cylinder. Made a list of what I would need. Found all of it on rock auto for 292 bucks shipped. That includes both calipers, master cylinder, booster, all three soft lines, 25 ft of nicopp line with assorted fittings, two 60" nicop lines with the proper bubble flare for the master cylinder...

Now if I get a warm weekend I might tackle this, but until it gets warmer or I get a garage big enough to work on it out of the weather, it might be sitting until spring with only a few drives to keep it running through the winter..

Now we wait for parts...

AJ

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

i’ve actually already done that. In addition to all the normal trailer wiring, I also run low level strobe lights (flashers). From the controller, there are two circuits, two positives and two negatives, so I used a four pin aviation plug (the same thing as a Cobra CB mic plug). And of course I’ve used up those for pins! And then I was thinking of running the high power strobes, which ground to the frame, but that means I have to run another wire to power them!

But I am back to what I said before, your most important point, I think, to keep the truck standard, and either add a plug or modify it on the trailer end. Remember, there’s really no practical reason for any of this, it’s just playing.

Too many toys….

What about a 6-pin round trailer plug? I’d just do extra plugs like that. Or even keep the 7 and 4 pin plugs and add a 6 pin. By doing different pin counts you can keep from accidentally plugging the wrong ones together