What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[85_Ranger4x4]

If i could also get clock angles for the input arm for each gear location that would help me build an adaptor if I need to for instance this is pics in order top to bottom 2hi 4 hi neutral 4lowView attachment 67660View attachment 67661View attachment 67662View attachment 67663

In your position I would be very tempted to modify the lever on the tcase and build a linkage similar to a fullsize np208 and forget the stupid shift gate crap.

 

[tw205]

It came out of a 93 explorer sport I took it out myself infact I bought it for the trans lol.

Ok. So I have an M50D from a 94 explorer I bought for the same reason mated to the 1350. She in the rain now so I climbing under there. I can make those measurements tomorrow and compare them to yours. It may well be your transfer case but seeing is believing. As for your clocking. Your 2H looks the same as mine.

The first pictures you posted it appears the shifter is setting in neutral and the transfer case is 2H. Makes it look like it would be correct if they made contact. I’m wondering, after all the photos and hubabaloo that maybe the shift lever on your case is shorter in length.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ok. So I have an M50D from a 94 explorer I bought for the same reason mated to the 1350. She in the rain now so I climbing under there. I can make those measurements tomorrow and compare them to yours. It may well be your transfer case but seeing is believing. As for your clocking. Your 2H looks the same as mine. View attachment 67664
The first pictures you posted it appears the shifter is setting in neutral and the transfer case is 2H. Makes it look like it would be correct if they made contact. I’m wondering, after all the photos and hubabaloo that maybe the shift lever on your case is shorter in length.

It is shorter and clocked slightly different. I tried cutting down and welding my a4ld one and it didn't work.

4x4 C5 pic request

All you need is the shifter and arm,no real reason to go into the case. I bought the one in the pic for $20 from a member on TRS.

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Snoranger]

l today I recieved the transfercase shift linkage kindly provided by @tw205. I guess I should have test fit it before I made it look great.View attachment 67648View attachment 67649
Why am I having such a hard time finding the right shifter, this is closer than the one I had, was there never a 1350 manual shift behind an m50d, is this my issue. No blame on tw205 as far as we knew it should have fit. Does anyone have any idea if the shifter I need exists. Should I just give up and use the 1354 elec.shift

The early 13-50s had the non-removable arm on the shaft... IIRC, they were about 1” shorter than the one used with the M5OD/A4LD. You’re going to have to modify the either the shift linkage or the arm on the T-case.
Are the bolts that hold the T-case to the trans standard or metric?

 

[tw205]

It is shorter and clocked slightly different. I tried cutting down and welding my a4ld one and it didn't work.

4x4 C5 pic request

All you need is the shifter and arm,no real reason to go into the case. I bought the one in the pic for $20 from a member on TRS.

www.therangerstation.com

I see it. I blew up the pictures of his and mine. His Clocking looks like 1030 mine looks like 10. Interesting. I hope you aren’t offended by my inquiries. I really like gaining the knowledge. Don’t know what I’ll use if for but hey, it’s a hobby.

 

[tw205]

The early 13-50s had the non-removable arm on the shaft... IIRC, they were about 1” shorter than the one used with the M5OD/A4LD. You’re going to have to modify the either the shift linkage or the arm on the T-case.
Are the bolts that hold the T-case to the trans standard or metric?

Curiosity question. Are the shafts interchangeable from those early 1350 and the later ones?

 

[Snoranger]

Curiosity question. Are the shafts interchangeable from those early 1350 and the later ones?

I don’t see why not. Hell, You can put a 13-50 manual shaft into a 13-54 electric case if you drill it and shave about 1/4” off the case.

 

[scotts90ranger]

CEL came on last night on my way home, said cylinder 2 misfire> Dug into it this morning and found the passenger side spark plug wire not pressed into the coil for cylinder 2... had been going on long enough to eat away a good portion of the coil connector, I spent 10 minutes looking for my spare coil without luck but once the wire is clipped on it should work ok for a while... while I was there I changed the front two drivers side plugs and wires since I didn't do that last year, so now it actually does have a spare already installed

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Drove it to work for the first time in like two weeks since deer are getting Stupid and it is dark for my commute now.

On the way home I picked up our two year old from my parents who were baby sitting. Did a little engine braking in a tunnel with the windows down (not actually trying to do anything) which netted a nice snap crackle and pop and heard a "wow!"... "truck!" from the passenger seat. I went

 

[racsan]

Mine pops quite a bit too when I let off the gas to slow down, especially with the flatbed hitched up behind me.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Mine pops quite a bit too when I let off the gas to slow down, especially with the flatbed hitched up behind me.

I hear a lot more backtalking out of it without the topper. Apparently it isn't quite as tame as I thought lol.

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Used it to haul off some garbage. Working on fabricating a transfercase shifter for the future m50d 1350 combo

 

[600$04Ranger]

The original discussion has disappeared. IDK.

We need some positive news. What did you do to your Ranger taday?

Swapped out my wimpy stock front sway bar bushings and end links with the polyurethane kit from Energy Suspension. Easy job that didn't even require jacking the front end up. Used two jack stands to hold the sway bar up closer to the frame which made it easy except that I mounted the new bushings to the frame without making sure the ends of the sway bar was already above the upper control arms and realized I would have to start over since you can't just swivel the ends up when the control arm is in the way. DOH! No biggie though.

Was it worth the $45 and 20 minutes? Hell yeah! Feel a noticeable increase in stiffness and stability. The stock links use a plastic sleeve between the 4 small bushings while the new ones use a stout metal sleeve over that looks beefier too I replaced the worn out after only a month transmission mount I paid $10 for to replace the stock mount with their $60(worth it!) polyurethane mount and loved the way it eliminated some noticeable vibrations and my wobbly shifter. Thinking about getting the control arm bushing kit next since my lower bushings look old and worn. Anyone have any comments on that kit?

 

[Roert42]

Swapped the sender on the Red one, hopefully that sorts out my issue I was having with spidering under hard throttle.

Swapped the tires back between the blue one and red one, since I’m driving the red one all the time. Broke one of the lug studs on the blue one, have to change that now.

Gave my brother the ‘97, he was super excited about that. Helped him fix the reverse lights. Also helped him make a new handle for the parking brake release. Welded a old wrench to the lock collar

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Been working in fabricating the new transfercase shift linkage. Here is what I have so far runs through the gears quite nicely. Now I just have to figure out how to get it up into position for the shifter. First pic is 2high 2nd pic is 4low