What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

My experience with fancy clutches like that is that they love to chatter.. I had a cerametallic clutch in my old outback and It definitely preffered to be worked 100% different than an organic disc.

I put a stage 3 clutch kit in the Road Ranger 4.0 with matching pressure plate and flywheel. It is infinitely tighter, quicker/higher grabbing then the original clutch or any clutch I’ve ever had any vehicle. I think one TRS member called it a puck clutch. Is that what you have?

Mine does not slip or chatter, it actually grabs more like an “on off”switch as someone commented. It has a very heavy pedal, and it really took some getting used to, but after I did, I love it. When I’ve got that big trailer on it with something on the trailer, it doesn’t slip at all, but still let’s you drive normally.

hope it helps

 

[Blmpkn]

I put a stage 3 clutch kit in the Road Ranger 4.0 with matching pressure plate and flywheel. It is infinitely tighter, quicker/higher grabbing then the original clutch or any clutch I’ve ever had any vehicle. I think one TRS member called it a puck clutch. Is that what you have?

Mine does not slip or chatter, it actually grabs more like an “on off”switch as someone commented. It has a very heavy pedal, and it really took some getting used to, but after I did, I love it. When I’ve got that big trailer on it with something on the trailer, it doesn’t slip at all, but still let’s you drive normally.
View attachment 105117

hope it helps

I did a quick Google and tried to find what I had in the thing with no luck.. but if my memory serves it was a 'segmented' disc.. full circle shape. Glad I didn't go full ham and get the stg3 puck setup.. the plate on the stage 2 was more than stiff enough for my liking, and already overkill. With as much as I stalled it in the couple weeks after install someone would of thought I'd never driven a manual before lol.

 

[Rick W]

I did a quick Google and tried to find what I had in the thing with no luck.. but if my memory serves it was a 'segmented' disc.. full circle shape. Glad I didn't go full ham and get the stg3 puck setup.. the plate on the stage 2 was more than stiff enough for my liking, and already overkill. With as much as I stalled it in the couple weeks after install someone would of thought I'd never driven a manual before lol.

Amen, that was my experience. “Look at the newbie in that nice truck, doesn’t know how to drive it!“

I’m glad I looked back at my purchase. I’ve been saying all along that it was a stage two, but it’s actually a stage three. After I got used to it, other than greatly increased pressure on my old feeble leg, it performs very well. And I did get what I want, because my main interest was for when I was pulling that long trailer. A regular clutch would be slipping too much and burn up prematurely.

All I had to do is update my dental plan to fix my teeth after they bounce off the steering wheel when I shift gears.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Last week I noticed a weird rubbing noise coming from the back of the truck. I thought it was just due to bushings making noise in damp weather. I also noticed what appeared to be one of the wheels slipping with a slight knock when taking off from a stop, It occurred to me that both problems started at around the same time. Another oddity was it one tire appeared to break traction on wet pavement if I got on the gas too hard. I though it might be the slip yoke binding. So, after work today I rocked the bed of the truck a bit to see if I could duplicate the noise. I then went under the truck to continue tracking down the squeek and heard that knock, which came from the shock absorber, which was missing a bolt, which I used a bit of locktite on when I installed them. I then went to the other rear shock to pull out the bolt so I could find or buy a matching bolt. However, that bolt was missing too.


I realize fasteners come loose. But, they have been on there for five years. Why would BOTH of them come loose and go missing at the same time? It's hard to tell, but it appears as if the dirt on one of the shocks has been disturbed. As it someone grabbed it to pull themselves under the truck. I know this sounds a bit out there, but do you think someone could have taken them out?

Both bolts disappearing so suddenly makes me think someone removed them.

When I lived in the boonies, sometimes we had problems with people messing with our stuff. My stepfather had a '72 F-100. We noticed a bearing racket from the right front one day, so I took a look. When I pulled off the grease cap, water came out. The problem was that there had been little rain and the truck had not been through water. We concluded someone had pulled off the grease cap and used our garden hose to spray water on the bearings, which turned out to be corroded but had not been for long. I installed and packed new bearings and didn't have any more problems.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The fancier the clutch the more they chatter in my experience too, the one I got for my F350 makes a racket sitting idle stopped...

 

[ben_2_go]

Drove Strangler to dinner tonight. We're having downpours. Hit the wipers and turned them on high. It sounded like a midget in my cowl beating everything with a hammer. It's time to rebuild the wiper system. Anyone did that job on a 98+ Ranger? Didn't find anything on the youtubes.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m gonna have to go look for the box the clutch came in that I put in my F-150 now with all this talk. I’ve been saying I put a Stage 2 clutch in it, but now I’m not sure if it’s a 2 or a 3. I do know that when I put it in with the neighbors house and went to back it out of his garage I very clearly heard the clutch go ssssccccchhhhik. Never actually heard a clutch grab like that and still can hear it years later. It grabs HARD. Hard enough to break things. Which I have. Usually it’s U-joints that it rips apart dumping that 300-6 raw torque through things. Sometimes it’s motor mounts. Whatever weak link it can find, really. I love it. It’s not, at all, novice friendly. I’m fine with that.

 

[G8orFord]

It's not what I did, but what I'd like to do as soon as I get the advice of the fine folks here. '86 2.9 that bucks and jerks with misfires if you try to run out the gears. Basically at about 2k rpm it will start this and the only way to stop it is to let off the throttle. Conversely, if you ease into it and shift normally, it runs smooth with no issues. If you keep it under a bit of a load, it doesn't do it. Is this fuel pressure or something with the ignition system? It's also a B-II, not technically a Ranger.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It's not what I did, but what I'd like to do as soon as I get the advice of the fine folks here. '86 2.9 that bucks and jerks with misfires if you try to run out the gears. Basically at about 2k rpm it will start this and the only way to stop it is to let off the throttle. Conversely, if you ease into it and shift normally, it runs smooth with no issues. If you keep it under a bit of a load, it doesn't do it. Is this fuel pressure or something with the ignition system? It's also a B-II, not technically a Ranger.

I would certainly start with fuel pressure. Also ensure the regulator is operating correctly. Because it happen under heavy load... the regulator is suspect.

If all good there... check timing first. Then ensure it doesn't have goofy none OE spark plugs. Then I would go through the secondary ignition components.

 

[sgtsandman]

Pulled the dent out on the bed of the 2011. I just grabbed the antenna mount and pulled. It popped right out and doesn't even look like it was ever pushed in. I still need to order a new tail light housing.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Got the Ranger from the body shop on Friday (sorry for posting late). The lower valance that contains the driving lights was painted flat black as promised, and the truck looks really good without the faded gray plastic in front. I'll see what I can do to post pics.

 

[G8orFord]

I would certainly start with fuel pressure. Also ensure the regulator is operating correctly. Because it happen under heavy load... the regulator is suspect.

If all good there... check timing first. Then ensure it doesn't have goofy none OE spark plugs. Then I would go through the secondary ignition components.

Fuel pressure is good (between 30 and 40 psi) and the regulator is working the way it should so I guess it's spark. It did run a bit better yesterday than Saturday which also leads me more towards spark problems. Saturday was rainy and wet, yesterday was clear. More moisture in the air will cause more issues with spark if there are issues to start with. I'll run through the plugs, wires and distibutor maybe this weekend. Here's some pics of the beast.

It needs a throw-out bearing and an A/C compressor (probably more A/C stuff) and the driveshaft is making some noise. Are there any good alternatives for the stock CV style shaft that'll work with a 4" lift? There a few other little odds and ends that need attention, but overall it's in pretty good shape for a 38 year old vehicle.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

I bought this truck solely as a parts truck. But I got it running and driving. It still needs quite a lot of work for it to be roadworthy. But she is cleaning up nice. Not sure if I have the heart to cut it up. But I really need a lot of the parts it has.

 

[Rick W]

I bought this truck solely as a parts truck. But I got it running and driving. It still needs quite a lot of work for it to be roadworthy. But she is cleaning up nice. Not sure if I have the heart to cut it up. But I really need a lot of the parts it has.

looks pretty nice! Clean it up and flip it, and buy the parts you need with the profits

 

[RangerFabWorks]

looks pretty nice! Clean it up and flip it, and buy the parts you need with the profits

that’s the problem. I need the cab with the title. And the bed. So I’m cutting up a ranger no matter what.