What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[scotts90ranger]

I've tried to get the engine out of the Explorer this weekend but it's been fighting me, the last of the 4 exhaust bolts did NOT want to come out, first I broke the top off of a no name 6" 3/8 drive extension (it was on the ratchet end after a 18" long extension) which skinned my pinky pretty good, then I tried harder with a name brand extension and broke a 3/8" drive U joint... I was using a 1/2" drive extendable ratchet so pulled out the 2' long 1/2" drive snap on extension (don't remember where I got it but was NOT strap on price...) and asked a little harder with some heat at the manifold side of the bolt with some WD 40... After that decided to go for the bellhousing bolts, the trans dipstick tube is in the way of one so figured I'd get that out of the way... negatory, that 3/8" bolt is STUCK, don't know how, I put it in with 4' of extensions and a U joint with a 3/8" ratchet... I'm not seeing a good other way to get that one bolt out without getting the tube out of the way...

So there's 2 bellhousing bolts and two motor mount nuts holding the engine in at this point... maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow. I'd rather not but I might have to drop the transfer case and drivelines or maybe pull the trans too, was hoping to avoid that...

Today was cut short since I went to the local old iron tractor show thing with swap meet and for whatever reason I had an allergic reaction to stuff I was mowing yesterday, my hands swelled up so took some Benadryl which induced a 2 hour nap...

 

[Roert42]

Just got the call from the shop. The frame repairs on the '96 passed the reinspection.

The wife will be excited that it's not going to be parked in the front yard anymore.

Brother will be excited he finally can drive it. Just has to learn how to drive a stick now.


Everyone can inspect my handiwork at Carlile.

 

[broncc]

negatory, that 3/8" bolt is STUCK, don't know how, I put it in with 4' of extensions and a U joint with a 3/8" ratchet... I'm not seeing a good other way to get that one bolt out without getting the tube out of the way...

Easiest way is to cut/grind the exposed threads. Once everything is off the motor you have to remove the bolts with a die grinder. Afterwards you just install woth stainless bolts, nut and washer on other side.

 

[Rick W]

I've tried to get the engine out of the Explorer this weekend but it's been fighting me, the last of the 4 exhaust bolts did NOT want to come out, first I broke the top off of a no name 6" 3/8 drive extension (it was on the ratchet end after a 18" long extension) which skinned my pinky pretty good, then I tried harder with a name brand extension and broke a 3/8" drive U joint... I was using a 1/2" drive extendable ratchet so pulled out the 2' long 1/2" drive snap on extension (don't remember where I got it but was NOT strap on price...) and asked a little harder with some heat at the manifold side of the bolt with some WD 40... After that decided to go for the bellhousing bolts, the trans dipstick tube is in the way of one so figured I'd get that out of the way... negatory, that 3/8" bolt is STUCK, don't know how, I put it in with 4' of extensions and a U joint with a 3/8" ratchet... I'm not seeing a good other way to get that one bolt out without getting the tube out of the way...

So there's 2 bellhousing bolts and two motor mount nuts holding the engine in at this point... maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow. I'd rather not but I might have to drop the transfer case and drivelines or maybe pull the trans too, was hoping to avoid that...

Today was cut short since I went to the local old iron tractor show thing with swap meet and for whatever reason I had an allergic reaction to stuff I was mowing yesterday, my hands swelled up so took some Benadryl which induced a 2 hour nap...

I don’t know that WD-40 will help you on something like that. You should really try the rust penetrating oil, PB blaster or something like that. If you have the time, just soak it with that stuff once a day for a week.

Another trick I may have learned from someone on this forum, I don’t remember, is when you have a frozen bolt, don’t just pull on it in the removal direction. Instead, with the penetrating oil, wiggle it both forwards and backwards. Just a little tiny bit. Each time you do it you should free up a little bit more of the bolt in the threads, and also allow more penetrating oil to go deeper. Never want to pull on it hard enough to snap it, you just want to wiggle it back-and-forth and back-and-forth a tiny bit forever and hopefully it will come loose at some point

The last thought is that if you can get to the top of the bolt or stud with the hammer, and you bang it a few times, that should also shake apart frozen rust, and can also open the channel for the penetrating oil to get in. You’re not trying to bang the boat loose, you’re just banging it hard enough to jar it to shatter any rust adhesions.

Hope it helps…

 

[4.0blue98]

I think he did:



VHT, the performance upgrade in a can.

Yep. About as good as it gets. A few years ago I tried three different sets of drums. All of them gave an annoying pulse when stopping. They all had some slight warpage. Tried a couple different brand sets of shoes too. Right now I'm running one Centric and one Bendix drum with heavy duty Centric riveted shoes. Tried Motorcraft stuff first and it was no better. Next time I'll take the new drums to the local machine shop and have them trued.

 

[sgtsandman]

I don’t know that WD-40 will help you on something like that. You should really try the rust penetrating oil, PB blaster or something like that. If you have the time, just soak it with that stuff once a day for a week.

Another trick I may have learned from someone on this forum, I don’t remember, is when you have a frozen bolt, don’t just pull on it in the removal direction. Instead, with the penetrating oil, wiggle it both forwards and backwards. Just a little tiny bit. Each time you do it you should free up a little bit more of the bolt in the threads, and also allow more penetrating oil to go deeper. Never want to pull on it hard enough to snap it, you just want to wiggle it back-and-forth and back-and-forth a tiny bit forever and hopefully it will come loose at some point

The last thought is that if you can get to the top of the bolt or stud with the hammer, and you bang it a few times, that should also shake apart frozen rust, and can also open the channel for the penetrating oil to get in. You’re not trying to bang the boat loose, you’re just banging it hard enough to jar it to shatter any rust adhesions.

Hope it helps…

I prefer to use a ratchet or a small impact gun when doing that. Less chance of snapping the bolt. The exception was bed bolts. The only thing that would move them was a 1/2” impact. Lived on the edge with that one. Surprisingly, none of the bolts broke.

 

[ZMan]

Is that a home made bed cover or a raised wood bed floor? Either way post some more pics somewhere.

It doesn't move so i suppose it's a raised bed floor. The tailgate still works and they built a little storage compartment for chairs and a cooler. I'll post more pictures tonight.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The problem with the dip stick tube bolt is it is on the back side of the passenger side cylinder head, about 1.5" from the firewall or less but the firewall tapers forward about there so you have to move the wrench to the center and it has to be angled away from the engine to clear the intake manifold and you're standing on a ladder with one foot on it trying not to fall and all the pushing on the wrench you can do is not in the right direction... I'll win, just not last night , I'm going to modify a cheapo 9/16" wrench for a longer handle and get it bent in a better angle...

 

[BroncLander]

Fresh new wiper blades! I can see clearly now the rain is gone

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well, just got home from taking the Choptop on a little adventure, went out to Lisa’s, stopped at @sgtsandman ’s and returned his torque wrench and home. Over 100 miles all told. There’s a little vibration somewhere though. But it did good.

 

[ZMan]

Is that a home made bed cover or a raised wood bed floor? Either way post some more pics somewhere.

I bought a bodydropped 99.

This truck has been around the area a while. I know the previous two owners from going to a shows, So I at least know it's history over the last 6 years. 2.5/5 speed. Needs some work. Needs an alternator and a power steering pump. I have a 170 amp alternator on the way, since it has 4...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[scotts90ranger]

I won! I kinda felt dumb not figuring out the geometry yesterday, turns out a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar folded all the way over with a 12pt socket was enough to get it broke free then a normal floppy ratchet fit in fine to finish it off... then I was able to get the two bellhousing bolts out, the middle one on the drivers side was a rascal with all the shifter stuff and front driveshaft... after dinner I might put the trans jack under the trans, put a couple lifting eyes on the engine and see about lifting it out... all my lifting stuff in the shop is mechanical not hydraulic (chain hoist and scissor jack) so it can sit until Thursday when I'll be able to get on it next...

 

[Rick W]

I won! I kinda felt dumb not figuring out the geometry yesterday, turns out a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar folded all the way over with a 12pt socket was enough to get it broke free then a normal floppy ratchet fit in fine to finish it off... then I was able to get the two bellhousing bolts out, the middle one on the drivers side was a rascal with all the shifter stuff and front driveshaft... after dinner I might put the trans jack under the trans, put a couple lifting eyes on the engine and see about lifting it out... all my lifting stuff in the shop is mechanical not hydraulic (chain hoist and scissor jack) so it can sit until Thursday when I'll be able to get on it next...

When was the last time you saw somebody this happy about being “unscrewed?“

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I won! I kinda felt dumb not figuring out the geometry yesterday, turns out a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar folded all the way over with a 12pt socket was enough to get it broke free then a normal floppy ratchet fit in fine to finish it off... then I was able to get the two bellhousing bolts out, the middle one on the drivers side was a rascal with all the shifter stuff and front driveshaft... after dinner I might put the trans jack under the trans, put a couple lifting eyes on the engine and see about lifting it out... all my lifting stuff in the shop is mechanical not hydraulic (chain hoist and scissor jack) so it can sit until Thursday when I'll be able to get on it next...

Scott, when you put it all back together, remember Ekrampitzjr's rule of thumb: antiseize is (usually) your friend.

 

[JoshT]

When was the last time you saw somebody this happy about being “unscrewed?“

I get screwed so often, I'd be happy to be unscrewed too.

Oh, wait...

you were implying a different kind of screwing weren't you?